That's my plan, a good looking truck that can be used everyday, any day. No, I'm not an engineer, but I do have an ear for engines (diesels mostly) I'm a machinist by trade. No, never driven a big rig, but might want to try one day. In case your wife is reading, I have spent next to nothing on labor, just a little for sand blasting, powder coating, and a few small welding jobs I was not comfortable with.....
Thanks all for the comments and support, makes the slow days not so bad, and the fun ones even better
Started on my exhaust today But to get ready for that I moved the large full flow oil filter and the 1" hoses leading to and from it from there spot inside the frame under the passengers seat to outside the frame behind the battery box. Filter is mounted, and some special pipe to JIC adapters are on order to complete the connections. Also I'll need to adjust and move some fuel lines, but not complicated, just a few fittings to order.
I need to order some 5" straight pipe, because once the 4" gets to the back of the cab I have room for 5", and it'll go all the way over the axle and out behind the right rear wheels.
What do y'all think about a muffler? I am open to trying it without one, but I think it will be a little loud, the 6V53T I had with dual straight pipes was plenty loud, and this 4-53T with the 5' straight stack is way to loud. If I use a muffler I don't want it to be too quiet though. Any opinions on what 5" muffler to use, MBRP, Magnaflow, Banks, Walker, ????
Grigg, you no what my vote would be. "We doneed no stinkin muffler". But I know your concerns. I want to change the muffler on my GMC to something that truley accentuates that 6-71, but not too much that it ticks off the neighbors every time I leave the house. I like the inside of the frame routing. Muffler or not, that 5" tailpipe will look great coming out from behind the tires.
Last edited by Bill Marlow; 10/13/200810:56 PM.
~ Billy Old Dominion Stovebolt Society: Exotic Animal Division 1946 Chevrolet Cab Over Engine | In the Gallery | Video | More pictures 1959 GMC 860 | Pictures 1950 GMC 450 FlatbedW/W, Air Brake equipt (25% Owner) | Pictures 1950 Chevrolet 3800 | Pictures I've got a trailer and I'm not afraid to use it!
MUFFLERS ON A DETROIT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! HOW DARE YOU?????? It's you're truck, do as you see fit. I don't think it will be much of an issue at all except whoever is next to you at a light.But that makes for some fun.
From talking to several folks that run 4-53T's in pickup trucks, they all use some sort of muffler, and they are reasonably quiet. Buy explaining my goal of just quiet enough, but not silent, they say with that long of a straight pipe I'll want a resonator or small straight through muffler to take the edge off of it, it'll sound better they say.
So I'm thinking about this 5" Magnaflow http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT&viewitem=&item=220285698780 it's 7" OD and 24" long, straight through with some stainless steel and ceramic wool in it. Stainless steel with a lifetime free replacement, and as cheap or cheaper than any of the others I was considering.
I like it. How soon do you think you will get your exhaust done?
~ Billy Old Dominion Stovebolt Society: Exotic Animal Division 1946 Chevrolet Cab Over Engine | In the Gallery | Video | More pictures 1959 GMC 860 | Pictures 1950 GMC 450 FlatbedW/W, Air Brake equipt (25% Owner) | Pictures 1950 Chevrolet 3800 | Pictures I've got a trailer and I'm not afraid to use it!
I worked on it some more this evening, and I now have a list of a few more bends I need. It'll be a few weeks before I get done, between gathering parts and finding time to work on it. so far it is not as complicated or frustrating as I had expected it to be.
It's hard to know what you need with nothing in hand, and with each 4" exhaust bend costing approximately $25-$45 I didn't know what to do to start with. Then I figured once I got started I would make mistakes, at the same $25-$45 per..
On my way to a show several weeks ago I stopped by Central Truck and Trailer in Hagerstown MD, mostly to show them the truck (on the trailer with me) they have been helping me with for a few years now, and to pick up a few more parts. We got to talking about my upcoming exhaust project and Randall went inside and came back with an arm load of bends, I picked a few that we thought might work. I purchased 3 bends and some straight pipe and can return them and get some more if they don't work. So far two worked great, and another is close enough to let me know what I need to exchange it for. Now that I have some of it done I can guess at what I need for the next few steps. Looking at the whole job it was frustrating, but a little bit at a time is not so bad..
As far as a muffler goes, a "chambered" tube in 4" or 5" would be cool if there exist such an animal. I know 2.5-3" chambered tubes are good at knocking the edge off of gas motors without changing the overall character or tone of the pipes. An example would be mid year Big Block Vette's with side exhaust.
1949 Studebaker 2R16A 1961 Chevrolet Impala 1968 Chevrolet Corvette Roadster 1971 C10
Going through a turbo will take quite a bit off the 'edge' as will a long straight pipe. You might consider getting a 'Y' to put near the back and shoot exhaust out both sides--that will also help some.
The mufflers on the semis I drive at work have all broken at the bottom where the pipe goes into the muffler. There was nothing wrong with the rest of the muffler. I took a plasma cutter and cut a circle slightly larger than the inlet pipe. This allowed me to have enough room to reach in with the plasma tip and cut out the perforated metal inlet screen inside the muffler. I then welded in a new piece of inlet pipe and made an adapter 'donut' to fit the new pipe to the larger hole I made in the muffler. This modified muffler has a little more rumble than the stock muffler but it will still take the edge off the Jakes when I use them. Backpressure is dramatically reduced. One truck I drive has single exhaust and it had a small leak on the pipe near the elbow going into the bottom of the muffler. After I modified the muffler the leak is no longer noticable.
Most trucking companies would not go to the trouble I did and you might be able to get a 'freebie' muffler to modify. You could also cut the muffler to whatever length you desire.
Just a thought...
Remember 9-11-01--God Bless the USA JUSTICE, not REVENGE, will prevail
it is amazing the quality of work that is here, this is where i got my inspiration for my cummins swap. i started following his progress when he was just about to start the motor for first time. wow its really come a long way! looks great! if this is the quality you wont see.. imagine the quality you will see. you definatly have a gift grigg
Hey Grigg I found your next project stuff this into an AD truck LOL http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Parts-Accessories___DETROIT-DIESEL-ENGINE-16V71_W0QQitemZ280280873788QQddnZPartsQ20Q26Q20AccessoriesQQddiZ2811QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item280280873788&_trkparms=72%3A713%7C39%3A1%7C65%3A12%7C240%3A1318&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245
No, I think the 92 only went up to 16 cylinders. The 149 series I know was available in 20 cylinders, and I have heard of 24, but never seen one (if it's even true). now that we are talking about the projects we'll never get to.. on my list are the following: An 8V149 with an Allison transmission in a old semi truck, probably a Pete from the 50's A 24V71 in a similar truck with an extremely long hood and a single rear axle right behind the cab. A 12V53 in/under an AD COE An inline 6-53 (home made from two aluminum 3-53 blocks) in some sort of smallish truck. Tandem 6-71's (two in line 6-71's with one output shaft, similar to an inline 12 cylinder) in a late 40's Dodge big truck with an extra long hood, a COE cab with the rear wheels in the old front fender openings, and long running boards with side rails, made up to look like a locomotive..
But none of those are quite as practical as my 48 with the 4-53T.
cummins n14 with 5spd liberty into a jeep.. 4bt into my jeep truck (its all original sorry ) 6bt cummins into a 65 belvidere (moms car :mad:) voltswagon tourag v10 turbo into a trailblazer( ) cummins 6.7 with allison trans into a dodge viper(1000+hp)
i personaly think the 4bt into my jeep truck would work, and be a preatty sweet swap, ufortunatly its my pure blodded side of me that keps me from doing it.
Have the 4" down pipe completed, it clamps to the turbo, squeezes in between the frame and engine, then snakes it's way back beside the transmission. http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2397149610080251109IVLELR It's out to be ceramic coated now, should have it back this coming week.
The next part is a 4" flex pipe about 18" long, have that ready with clamps.
Then about 2 more feet of 4" pipe to get back to the cab and past the fuel filter where there is more room. Still need to make this piece.
Here's one of the hangers, stainless clamps with the new style rubber bushings, when I need new exhaust It's easy to replace and reuse the old hangers, no welding needed. http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2754604420080251109ESAJDr
Also been working on replacing the air compressor with a very low hour rebuilt one, it's cleaned and painted, replaced a few parts, and installed on the engine. I found a nice cast iron pulley to use a C size belt which is much larger than the original stamped steel pulley, so it shouldn't slip. The new pulley is also a larger diameter which will be good for slowing the compressor down, as I really don't need much air all the time, so save fuel and wear on the compressor. I need to make a new matching C size pulley for the engine, but that won't be difficult once I find the time to do it.
I'll be swapping to a new turbo that compliments the bypass blower I now have installed. The hot side is also being ceramic coated this week.
In the future I want to -Make the goose-neck hitch sub-frame and incorporate shock mounts and tow hooks. -Fabricate and install front air springs and shock brackets. -Change rear axle gears and install the ARB air locker. -Fit cab around engine and get it on the road for a real test drive.
Looking good Grigg. Do you think that muffler would work on my 6-71? I'm sure the one that is on there should be replace and wouldn't mind something more free flowing although not too loud. Can you explain the purpose of the ceramic coating? Is this for longevity, performance, esthetics or all of the above? I see your to-do list but have you started on the cab yet? Keep up the good work.
By the way, I know I still have the book you lent me and I will get it in the mail to you this week. Thanks, Billy
~ Billy Old Dominion Stovebolt Society: Exotic Animal Division 1946 Chevrolet Cab Over Engine | In the Gallery | Video | More pictures 1959 GMC 860 | Pictures 1950 GMC 450 FlatbedW/W, Air Brake equipt (25% Owner) | Pictures 1950 Chevrolet 3800 | Pictures I've got a trailer and I'm not afraid to use it!
Billy- I think it should work for your truck, but let's see what it sounds like on mine first. Because you don't have a turbo you may want a better muffler, depends on how much noise you want to make? I'm thinking it may be a little loud on my truck, but with it pointed out the back it may be OK in the cab.
I have not started on the cab yet, but preliminary measurements indicate that widening the indentation in the firewall will be pretty simple. I'll do that and get it all bolted down then start driving it and changing things and working the bugs out before I restore the cab.
starkweatherr- I've been thinking of a display board with info and pictures for when I go to shows. I think we have better trained chickens over here... Really I just cleaned the ends with a wire brush and TIG welded the exhaust pieces together.
Great pics of your truck build!!! Hope to see it down in Huntsville if possible. I have been swamped at work and have not been on here in a week or so. Sorry for the slow response!
It's a 4" down pipe and back to just behind the cab, then 5" from there out to the tail gate, with a 5" Magnaflow muffler that is 4" straight through.
I probably won't be driving to Huntsville, I just found a bunch of stuff to do/redo before I put the cab on.. I'll explain and enlighten in a month or so, stay tuned. I may drag it down to Huntsville as is though.
I noticed you posted this just before midnight and judging from the snow below the barn eaves you made the movie just before that. You've got to get some sleep!
I saw the exhaust-in-progress photos the other day. Great work!
My 6400 should arrive next week.
Larry
Larry Hayes Charlottesville, VA 48 3600 Flat Bed 49 6400 Grain Dump 48 Allis Chalmers G
Thanks Larry, post some pictures and start a thread about your truck when you get a chance, you know we want to see it!
New news: I found the "silver" 4-53T I've been looking for from the beginning, and I'm headed to fetch it next week about this time.
Some folks say the differences in the Silver engine and the one I have are negligible in a truck, Some say it's worth the swap if you have a choice.. I think it'll be a good idea, but on the other hand it sets me back a while on finishing the truck.
I had to sell my current engine to be able to purchase the "new" one, and most of the hard work and tinkering I've done to the engine go with it, and likewise I have about that much work or more before I can install the "new" one. However, I do get to keep the Jake brakes, air starer and belt driven accessories like AC, PS, and air compressor.
The new engine I'll have to clean, strip the paint, repaint, also swap flywheel housing, oil pan, oil pickup, valve cover, crank pulley, thermostat housing, find an alternator, front engine mount, and governor. I'll replace seals and some gaskets while I'm at it. Even have to swap the blower to the opposite side, and use a different exhaust manifold.. plenty of work to do.
Haven't done much to the truck lately other than replace the fuel pump which sprung a leak.
Yep, that's "Bubba" the shop cat, he wants nothing more than to sit on whatever you're working on, he really likes to hold down drawings and plans for you, and has gotten quite good at in his 13 or 14 years.
I'm now trying to round up the new parts I need to swap stuff around and make it look like my last engine, blower on the left, limiting speed governor on the right, different front engine mount, different flywheel and flywheel housing, left handed alternator with right side bracket. I do have the right manifold already.
Looks good. Don't take too much off the old engine ...
Welcome home.
John
~ John
"We are not now that strength which in old days Moved earth and heaven; that which we are, we are"
1948 International Farmall Super A 1949 Chevrolet 3804 In the Legacy Gallery | In the Gallery Forum 1973 IH 1310 Dump 2001 International/AmTran RE3000 "Skoolie" 2014 Ford E-350 4x4 (Quigley)
Grigg, it looks great! Let me know if you need a can or two from my stash of "Alpine Green".
~ Billy Old Dominion Stovebolt Society: Exotic Animal Division 1946 Chevrolet Cab Over Engine | In the Gallery | Video | More pictures 1959 GMC 860 | Pictures 1950 GMC 450 FlatbedW/W, Air Brake equipt (25% Owner) | Pictures 1950 Chevrolet 3800 | Pictures I've got a trailer and I'm not afraid to use it!
Thanks, but I ordered a whole case of it from NAPA. noticed last time I got a can it didn't match exactly, so having a whole case should resolve that for a long time to come..
Anyone have recommendations on what primer to use if any before spray can engine paint?
The engine cleanup, reassembly, and painting is done. Ended up being lots and lots of work getting the new engine to look like the old one. In the process of swapping for the right parts, relocating existing parts, and cleaning and painting I have had every part of the engine off and apart except for the head, injectors, camshaft, crankshaft, pistons/rods, and thermostat..
Engines have been swapped with help from a fellow stovebolter. New engine runs and truck drives again! And so far not a single drip or leak, not even a drip from the air box drain tube which is expected to drip (and probably will soon).
On the list of things to do are: Machine pulley to bolt on camshaft to drive air compressor. Make front air helper spring brackets Make goose-neck hitch subframe, already have plans done. Fit the cab around the engine which should only involve widening the indentation in the firewall. Get it together enough for a real test drive; fenders, headlights, and a brake light, possibly wipers. Swap rear axle gears and install air operated differential locker, already have gears and locker, need bearings and seals. At some point actually finish the whole truck....