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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Aug 2001 Posts: 20 Junior Member | | Junior Member Joined: Aug 2001 Posts: 20 | Is there a way to bleed brakes without using the bleeding screw? My rear passenger side is rusted and stripped. I have tried heating it to no avail, maybe I didn't heat it enough? the screw turned cherry red and started to bubble, still wouldn't turn. Any ideas would be appreciated.
David
54 1ton
| | | | | Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 1,745 Member | | Member Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 1,745 | Take that wheel cylinder out and you should be able to work out the bleeder. It is made of a much softer material. Drilling or easy out should work fine.
54 3100 with 235 62 flatbed dump C60 with 261
| | | | | Joined: Feb 2003 Posts: 1,377 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2003 Posts: 1,377 | If you can get the metal line loose you can bleed it that way. I dont know what year of vehicle you have but alot of wheel cylinders will interchange through out alot of years. example I used 75 chevy 1/2 ton rear wheel cylinders on my 53 olds 88 and I got them at the discount parts store instead of paying alot more from the old car specialty shops | | | | | Joined: Jul 2000 Posts: 504 Member | | Member Joined: Jul 2000 Posts: 504 | If the bleeder screw is rusted , the chances are that the rest of the wheel cylinder is not in the best of shape. I would replace the wheel cylinder..
Bill M 53 GMC Hydra-Matic
Home Page http://home.comcast.net/~bd97/index.html
When you argue with a fool, two fools are arguing..
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#5231 03/21/2003 10:43 PM | Joined: Jan 2001 Posts: 230 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2001 Posts: 230 | I really shouldn't mention this but the Bendix factory guy taught me in a brake tech class many many years ago.....
Remove drum and peel back the rubber dust cap & insert a .002" feeler gauge in between the piston and cylinder untill it begins to dribble , have a helper pump the brake pedal and stop when bubbles stop coming out - one must be very carefull with a rag to prevent any brake fluid from reaching the lining or the game's over .
Note : this can kill old brake cups that only have a tenuous seal in the first place , any signs of leakage when the dust cap is peeled back means no go , you must rebuild / replace the offending cylinder .
This method also works quite well on vertical slave cylinders like those used in older C- series trucks from that other brand - you know the bad one ('F') .
When bleeding brakes , _always_ use _ONLY_ a 6 point box end wrench to help prevent stripping and when faced with older machinery , before anything , smack the bleeder nipple hard with a 32 Oz. ball pien hammer _before_ you try to open it , 99 % of the time this will shock it and release it .
Good luck and have fun ! .
-Nate There is no problem so difficult it cannot be overcome by generous application of brute force & ignorance
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