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#5227 03/18/2003 5:43 AM
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 20
C
Junior Member
Junior Member
C Offline
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 20
Is there a way to bleed brakes without using the bleeding screw? My rear passenger side is rusted and stripped. I have tried heating it to no avail, maybe I didn't heat it enough? the screw turned cherry red and started to bubble, still wouldn't turn. Any ideas would be appreciated.

David


54 1ton
#5228 03/18/2003 5:50 AM
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 1,745
T
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T Offline
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 1,745
Take that wheel cylinder out and you should be able to work out the bleeder. It is made of a much softer material. Drilling or easy out should work fine.


54 3100 with 235
62 flatbed dump C60 with 261
#5229 03/18/2003 6:19 AM
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,377
J
'Bolter
'Bolter
J Offline
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,377
If you can get the metal line loose you can bleed it that way. I dont know what year of vehicle you have but alot of wheel cylinders will interchange through out alot of years. example I used 75 chevy 1/2 ton rear wheel cylinders on my 53 olds 88 and I got them at the discount parts store instead of paying alot more from the old car specialty shops

#5230 03/18/2003 1:10 PM
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 504
5
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5 Offline
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 504
If the bleeder screw is rusted , the chances are that the rest of the wheel cylinder is not in the best of shape. I would replace the wheel cylinder..


Bill M
53 GMC Hydra-Matic

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#5231 03/21/2003 10:43 PM
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 230
V
Shop Shark
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V Offline
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 230
I really shouldn't mention this but the Bendix factory guy taught me in a brake tech class many many years ago.....

Remove drum and peel back the rubber dust cap & insert a .002" feeler gauge in between the piston and cylinder untill it begins to dribble , have a helper pump the brake pedal and stop when bubbles stop coming out - one must be very carefull with a rag to prevent any brake fluid from reaching the lining or the game's over .

Note : this can kill old brake cups that only have a tenuous seal in the first place , any signs of leakage when the dust cap is peeled back means no go , you must rebuild / replace the offending cylinder .

This method also works quite well on vertical slave cylinders like those used in older C- series
trucks from that other brand - you know the bad one ('F') .

When bleeding brakes , _always_ use _ONLY_ a 6 point box end wrench to help prevent stripping and when faced with older machinery , before anything , smack the bleeder nipple hard with a 32 Oz. ball pien hammer _before_ you try to open it , 99 % of the time this will shock it and release it .

Good luck and have fun ! .


-Nate
There is no problem so difficult it cannot be overcome by generous application of brute force & ignorance

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