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| | | | Joined: Mar 2009 Posts: 208 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Mar 2009 Posts: 208 | Hi guys - I got the 58 apache home Thursday at about 10pm. This evening I started the process to replace the rear main seal because the previous owner said it leaked like crazy (it doesn't run at the moment but is all together).
So I pulled the pan & bearing cap easy enough. Cleaned everything etc. Of course the hard part is getting the upper seal out.
HOW THE HECK DOES THIS THING COME OUT??? (sorry for shouting). I tried to drive it out like I would a rubber one, but this rope seal is crap.
The tech tips said to loosen all the bearing caps & drop the crank, but with the transmission/clutch/fly wheel attached & tight how will the crank drop?
Need help! | | | | | Joined: Mar 2009 Posts: 208 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Mar 2009 Posts: 208 | I knew there had to be a tool that would pull this. Can this be bought locally or do I need to order one online? | | | | | Joined: Mar 2009 Posts: 208 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Mar 2009 Posts: 208 | Doesn't matter - I just bought one on ebay. Will be here this week. Thanks for the help. I'll let you know how frustrated I am once it arrives. | | | | | Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 | That threaded tool is very handy for this. thread it in as far as possible and pull it out. | | | | | Joined: Oct 2001 Posts: 3,458 Extreme Gabster | | Extreme Gabster Joined: Oct 2001 Posts: 3,458 | If you push in and release the clutch with the bearing cap loose the crank should drop a bit. You will want to have an assistant do it again with you when you tighten up the bearing cap again, though.
Paint & Body Shop moderator
A lone amateur built the Ark. A large group of professionals built the Titanic. | | | | | Joined: Mar 2009 Posts: 208 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Mar 2009 Posts: 208 | Thanks for the advice. If I can't get the 'pete' to remove the seal I'll recruit my 7 year old son to help work the clutch while I pry on the crank.
I read somewhere online that if you drop the crank you will guarantee a leak in the front seal. This true? I don't want to cause myself any more problems.
By the way - The odometer reads 56k - could be 156, 256, 356. I don't know - but the underside is very clean - no gunk built up no rust. Been sitting for 15 years. I'm hoping it is just plain ol' 56k.
Oh - since I'm thinking about this - there are a ton of casting numbers & other things stamped on the parts. I have no idea if these are good to know or not, but thought I'd write them down just in case. | | | | | Joined: Mar 2009 Posts: 208 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Mar 2009 Posts: 208 | Once the rear main seal is replaced, I'm going to rebuild the carb & then drain & clean the tank & fuel lines.
It should start right up after that. | | | | | Joined: Mar 2009 Posts: 208 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Mar 2009 Posts: 208 | Got the sneaky pete in the mail today - took about 1 hour to complete the seal swap from that point.
Thanks for the help guys. I'll let you know when I get it running. | | | | | Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 82 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 82 | Midget,
Did you have any trouble with the crank or were you able to pull it through without loosening all of the journals?
As you might guess, I get to do this fairly soon...
Thanks,
Richard
Richard
58 3104
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