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'Bolter
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Help!!! Just turned on my headlights and gauge just pegged to discharged,went to park and returned to normal. Any sugestions?????


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Cruising in the Passing Lane
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use an ohmeter to check all the wiring for starters, likely be a shorted wire between the switch and the lights, not likely the actual switch

Bill


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red58 I know what you ment to say but as it is written you have this guy checking his starter wiring. LOL


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So splain this to me a bit more. You turned the headlamps on and the amp meter went to complete discharge and stayed untill you went back to the running lamp position (park). Is that right? Did you turn them on again? If so what happened? Are they ok now or do you still have the problem?


I didn't do it, no one saw me do it, you can't prove anything! "Bart Simpson"
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still have the problem even after I turned them off and went to park lights.only happens with headlights on.Checked all wiring no grounds.


1953 Chevy Two-Ton
In the Stovebolt Gallery
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Be careful calling yourself a expert,because an "EX" is a hasbeen and a"SPERT" is a drip under pressure.

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'Bolter
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I don't know what year of truck you have but the dimmer switches can cause big problems. If you were checking for shorts to ground I would be checking the wire that goes from the headlight switch to feed the dimmer switch, with everything still attached. If you start to remove wires you might alter the problem.


1951 GMC 1 Ton Flatbed -- It is finally on the road and what a great time I have driving it!
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It's a '53 6100 with 12 volt generator conversion,I might have a
6 volt switch but I don't know,I could check with my ohms meter if I knew what my readings should be.


1953 Chevy Two-Ton
In the Stovebolt Gallery
More pix on Photobucket

Be careful calling yourself a expert,because an "EX" is a hasbeen and a"SPERT" is a drip under pressure.

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voltage doesn't matter for switches, will work the same with 6 or 12 - should be open on one set of contacts [the "off" side], dead short on the other [the "on" side], opposite when switched

Bill


Moved over to the Passing Lane

"When we tug a single thing in nature, we find it attached to the rest of the world" ~ John Muir
"When we tug a single thing on an old truck, we find it falls off" ~ me
Some TF series details & TF heater pics
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Ok, so you either have a dead short or weak amp meter. Most old trucks have a fuse built onto the side of the switch. Remove this fuse and try turning the headlamps on again. Do you get the same result? If so you may have a faulty switch if not install the fuse and goto the headlamp dimmer switch on the floor. on this switch you will have 3 wires, one gos to the headlamp switch the other 2 are for high and low beam. Before we test (just for grinns and giggles) mash the dimmer 1 time and try the headlamps again. Did the meter peg out? I am stoping here for a reply.


I didn't do it, no one saw me do it, you can't prove anything! "Bart Simpson"
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Did'nt matter what I did with the dimmer,but if I leave them on for a while they start to flicker like I'm turning the switch on and off.


1953 Chevy Two-Ton
In the Stovebolt Gallery
More pix on Photobucket

Be careful calling yourself a expert,because an "EX" is a hasbeen and a"SPERT" is a drip under pressure.

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almost for got could'nt find a fuse.


1953 Chevy Two-Ton
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More pix on Photobucket

Be careful calling yourself a expert,because an "EX" is a hasbeen and a"SPERT" is a drip under pressure.

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PapaJ,

Don't rule out the voltage regulator. It might have funky points that aren't allowing the generator to kick into charge when the headlight load is applied. A massive discharge indicated by the ammeter would produce smoke and fire if it were a short. If it were merely a heavy draw on the battery caused by a 'no charge' situation in the charging system, it would go on until the battery was dead...no fire-no smoke.

Stuart

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New voltage regulator,new battery still draws.Generator was putting out good voltage too.


1953 Chevy Two-Ton
In the Stovebolt Gallery
More pix on Photobucket

Be careful calling yourself a expert,because an "EX" is a hasbeen and a"SPERT" is a drip under pressure.

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Sounds like your switch has a circuit breaker built in. I don't know what year they started that but all headlamp switches after a certain year have a built in circuit breaker. It will get weak and start shorting out. You can't do much to test this but you can look over the wiring system for any obvious damage and replace the switch.


I didn't do it, no one saw me do it, you can't prove anything! "Bart Simpson"
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After back surgery and dealing with legal stuff I got to return to my light switch.Turns out I'm an IDIOT,I cut the electrical tape off of the"wiring harness" and found a bunch of exposed wires for the headlights.So now that I know what the problem is I can fix it!(just a few slaps upside my head.)


1953 Chevy Two-Ton
In the Stovebolt Gallery
More pix on Photobucket

Be careful calling yourself a expert,because an "EX" is a hasbeen and a"SPERT" is a drip under pressure.

Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 9,115
'Bolter
'Bolter
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The AD series of trucks had a thermal breaker built into the head light switch.

Good luck on your repair and I hope you are feeling better.


1951 GMC 1 Ton Flatbed -- It is finally on the road and what a great time I have driving it!
1951 1 Ton Completed


My Chevy Master 4 Door is on the Road!
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Just have to rewire at the terminal block to the headlights.


1953 Chevy Two-Ton
In the Stovebolt Gallery
More pix on Photobucket

Be careful calling yourself a expert,because an "EX" is a hasbeen and a"SPERT" is a drip under pressure.


Moderated by  Jon G, Rusty Rod 

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