The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Short Shaft Water Pump

Couple quick questions. I am at the point where I'm ready to put a fresh 235 into my 51 stock 1/2 ton....done yankin' the old 216 out!!!

The 235 came from the builder with a regular water pump which obviously won't fit between the rad-i-ate-or and engine.

My question is this. Without buying anything can I use the old 216 water pump on the 235?

Can I just take the pulley off the 235 water pump and press it onto the 216 water pump and be done with it?

OR do I have to find...real quick...one of the short shaft water pumps from J.Carter or Patricks?

Haha, if anyone has a short shaft water pump they want to put in the mail today...send me a message.

Anyway, you suggestions appreciated.

I,ve never done it but what I understand you have to use the 235 water pump but you can press the pulley on further & cut off the excess. It seems there is something on this in the tech. section.

Look in some fo the stovebolt part places for a adapter to use your 216 water pump on your 235. Useing the adapter and old 216 pump puts the fan at the right hight. The adapter is less than the cost of a new short pump.

Good advice. After alot of looking around it appears that the only way to avoid problems is use the adapter plate. Where can I get one???

They are offered on ebaY.

Joe

I have a brand new Jim Carter short shaft pump I'll let go at a bargain price. It was bolted and painted on my new 235. But then I found it would not work in my 1940 GMC. Had to remove it and go the adapter/216 water pump route.

Yer not far from me, you could drive down and get it if you want.

Steve

ndnchf - you got mail! Pls. contact me.

TT,

I sent you an e-mail but it got bounced back by your server.

I'm a little confused on the long/short water pump issue. On the front of my 261, there is a big round hole (maybe 4") with 3/8" holes surrounding it. The engine I got out of the scrap yard did not have a water pump on it, so I am unsure what it is supposed to have.

My 216 and 235 seem to share the same water pump, which bolts on towards the top of the block, if I recall correctly.

If someone had examples of short and long water pumps, I (for one) would appreciate some pictures.

There are two styles of pumps used on 235s originally.

1941-54 (not called a short pump but is) and
1955-62.

The 41-54 pump mounts on the face of the block and has two holes about 1 1/4" in diameter that transfers water into the engine. These pumps put the shaft at head gasket height.

55-62 pumps sit 3" lower and the impeller fits inside the large hole in the front of the block.

The 55-62 pump is much longer so if used in a 54 or earlier chev needs to be shortened. ie short shaft pump.

You cannot use a 216 pulley on a 235 pump. Even if you cram it on there it is the wrong diameter. Doesn't work.

If your engine is new (rebuilt)then don't try to use an old pump. These just are not that exprensive. Patricks has everything you need.

Ok any pictures to help those of us that are reading impaired? And how does that work out on a 1951 with a 261 engine? It's all new to me...

There are some photos of the short shaft pump on the '55 235 that is going into my 1940 GMC. Look at my webshots album under the 224 to 235 engine swap folder. The freshly painted motor is the 235 with the short shaft pump. I've since removed the pump and installed the adapter plate and 216 pump.
http://community.webshots.com/user/ndnchf

You can see mine at www.picturetrail.com/Birdhtr

Thanks for the photos. So if I'm getting this right, the fan blade hits the radiator intake unless you use the short short shaft pump with the 235/261 motor. Is that correct? Plus I need to have the short shaft to make it fit with in the engine compartment of the truck? Is that correct?

I guess I just can't seem to figure out how this all physically fits togeher. I'm workin on it... Thanks for helping me get this part right.

The pump on the left came off my '54 235. The one on the right is a new short-shaft pump which went on my '61 261.

There has been some question on whether the old pulley diameter is large enough for the newer style pump, but I've had no problem. My temp gauge reads about 175 for a 180-degree thermostat.

[img]http://www.sandeace.com/48/WaterPumps.jpg[/img]

The question is about the 216/235 pumps. The 216 is a different engine family than the 235/261. The pumps mount in a different location and use different sheave diameters. Overspeeding by use of a small pulley would cause cavitation and overheating. The diameter problem isn't related to making it fit but it's use.

The deal is the pump for the later model 235s and 261s are the same. The "short shaft" is derived by pressing the the pully mounting collar further down the shaft and cutting off the excess, This should save you about $60. Just be sure the collar is pressed to the correct position. Leave enough of the existing shaft so the pulley will have a shoulder to rest on.

I just wanted to finish this thread with MASSIVE kudos for the adapter plate. For anyone who had a 216 and is putting in a 235 this is in my opinion the right stuff and way to go because you will not have to change the rad. location and the plate is well thought out...NO install problems. Don't be put off drilling two holes esp. if the engine is out or you have access straight on with rad. out. kudos kudos kudos.

There are correct diameter pulleys availible if you shorten a 235 pump shaft. They are either on certain six cylinder Ford trucks, or from factory A/C car 235's. Both fit, and I have both in my collection. They are exactly right for spacing, diameter, and belt size.

However, the adaptor plate moves the pump to the high location that matches the radiator and is better.

Thanks for the nice words TT. I'm glad it worked out for you! Dave

Sounds like a direct quote from Patrick's. How do you account for all the 235s out there still running cool in the southwestern heat using a short shaft pump from guys other then Patrick's ?
I have never seen any data to support that claim. anyone?

since we are on the subject of water pumps. i replaced the 235 in my 54 with one from a 62. i ordered a short shaft pump so it would fit in the engine compartment etc. i used the thermostat housing from the original 235 so i could fit the top hose on without making a mod. etc to get to the radiator. my problem is that it heats up when i run it through the heater which is clean and obstruction free. cools fine when i by pass the heater and go straight from the pump to the block. i did all this before i found this website. now seeking what i need to redo. any suggestions? (new 4lb cap/and proper thermostat and rad has been cleaned).

since we are on the subject of water pumps. i replaced the 235 in my 54 with one from a 62. i ordered a short shaft pump so it would fit in the engine compartment etc. i used the thermostat housing from the original 235 so i could fit the top hose on without making a mod. etc to get to the radiator. my problem is that it heats up when i run it through the heater which is clean and obstruction free. cools fine when i by pass the heater and go straight from the pump to the block. i did all this before i found this website. now seeking what i need to redo. any suggestions? (new 4lb cap/and proper thermostat and rad has been cleaned).

Sounds like you don't have all of the air out of your heater core. When a cooling system has been fully drained refilled and not bled off completly the system can air lock.

TT - The adapter (Jim Carter or Buffalo)will center your fan in the rad better and make the system a little more efficient. (Important in hot country). You do have to drill and tap 2 holes in the block.