The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Heat carb set-up--update

could some one please post the heat-carb set up they may have on their 235, Webeold had emailed me some pix awhile back but I have lost th em, thinking about installing this set up, although with the fentons and our warm temp I never felt like I needed them, my truck starts fine, will idle fine but then will die before drivin a few miles, you can restart by turning the key off and then on while moving and it usually will restart..may go a mile or so and then do the same,,, seems like when it gets operating temp, the problem goes away,,it has the 12 volt, and electronic ignition, I took the key cylinder out and cleaned it out but did not change anything,when it dies it does not burp, just stops as if you turned the key off, guess I should check the ballastor/resistor type spring in this ceramic caseing...........any ideas would be appreciation..Fred

It could be your ign. switch or the elec. control module.

sort of what I thought but the module checks out ok as far as what I have been givin to check, the ignition key seems to work smoother now but,,,,guess it could be in the carb, but the thing starts so good, runs good except when it is in this mode, will die while running or sometime at gear shift change,dunno.........Fred

The ignition switch and the key that operates the switch are two different animals. Cleaning and lubing the lock cylinder does nothing for the switch contacts.

joker -

Check that ignition switch. I had that same problem with my 37 and it really got scary when I was moving at about 60 mph down the Airport Freeway in the left lane and it died. I had to cut in front of an 18 wheeler over to the right shoulder to stop. There was no shoulder in the left lane. :mad: When I stopped, I started it again and drove on. About a mile later, same thing. This had happened several times prior to this incident. It just kept getting worse. Finally, it wouldn't start. One day I was trying again to start it and found if I held the key a certain way, it would start and run - as long as I held the key. It than became obvious that it was the ignition switch. It was wore out. I'm willing to bet good money that's your problem and if it isn't - I owe you a cup of coffee!

A new ignition switch insert should fix it. You can buy just the insert. They usually pop out by putting a paper clip in the small hole in the switch.

Joe

Joker, If you are going to the Swap meet in Ft. Worth this weekend I'll show you how I set the hot water system up, that is if that ole 261 will run that far. If not, let me know and I'll email you some pictures.
Carter

Joker, what type of ignition are y'all running? If it's Pertronix, the ballast resistor is fine. If it's HEI, you need to lose the ballast resistor.

I would still agree with checking the switch.

taking it to a locksmith today , look at and rebuild if needed rather then order one thatis foreign made, I have a mallory electronic dis, with no points..believe the books calls for the ballast, thanks...Fred

got back from the locksmith,,, made a new key, tinker with it for about 30 min, said it was good as new, did not think the problem would be here, installed it back in and the dieing is still there, could be the back of the ignition as cletis recommends, I am going to love to take that thing out ,, oh well, he only charged , me 2 bucks for the key, at least the key wont come out while running, the odd thing is that it will almost die at the same point while on the first drive before it reaches operating temp,,,,dunno

ballast resistors can 'open' when warm.
coils can open or short with temp changes.
just my 2 cents.
tony

Ballast resistor? anybody bored enough to explain to me what that is?...Is my speculation of something like a condenser anywhere close?
Is it something only in electronic ignition?

thanks

I'm bored. A ballast resistor is used to reduce the voltage to the coil on a 12V system. This extends the life of the points. It is usually mounted on the firewall and is in a ceramic case.

the next time I drive the truck, I am going to let it idle till the temp gets normal, take off and see what happens,, what would that tell me if it runs normal and does not die?

joker, might be a stretch but nothing conventional seems to explain it yet so let's say it's a coil wire or other wire in the ignition circuit that is broken, but still making connection and breaking at inopportuned moments and causing the truck to stop. maybe when the wire touches something during movement or it could be a hot bare wire touching ground intermittently.
i know mine died like this when i first bought it and i had to rip all the gauges out of the dash and go through the wires one by one. i had more than one that was spliced old to new wire and the joiners weren't crimped tight enough. also i had bad grounds on some of the instruments. clean up all connections and check the wires. see what happens!
remember those 3 magic words: grounding grounding grounding!

joker -

I'm not bored - but I'm sorry I cost you a few bucks on the ignition switch idea. I thought it was a good idea and now you know that wasn't the problem. I'm thinking :confused: if I come up with something else, I'll let you know. In the meantime, keep us posted!

Joe

Joker, try addiing a bottle of Heet in your tank, they don't add alcohol to fuel any longer(remember winter fuel?)& it helps to stop carb icing(same thing manifold heat does). If it gets better, you know you need manifold heat. Don't buy more than a bottle or so they will look at you funny(meth cooks use it)! Brian

JOKER, the pictures of my carb heat setup is in my community webshots. use address at botom of this post. ron

Two fuel related items to check:

(1) change the fuel filter.
(2) remove the gas cap (for a driving test) to determine if you are pulling a vacuum on the fuel tank.

If neither of these fix the problem, borrow a points distributor, and watch the problem vanish.

Jon.

dumb qustion re (2) if I do this how will i know if i am pulling vacuum on the fuel tank? thanks for your advice,, I will check it out this evening..hope I dont need a points dist .

Cletis,

sixcylinder aint bored..how come you bored! What can we do to un-bore Cletis? :p


Over-board Stuart.

he needs some help on finishing his fence and post hole digging,,,,,,,,,,,

joker,

This means cletis is "boring" holes in the ground...maybe thats what he meant!


Stuart.

he and his wife (June) been doing this for about 3 weeks, you would think if he pulled his load they would be finished by now

cletis, go out back to your collection of trucks and pick me some spare parts, I might find out what is wrong with mine then,, a carb, a dist, ignition with out the key/cylinder, fuel pump, I drove it a few min ago after chnging the fuel filter,no help, once it get out of this little dieing cycle it is ok,, at least it will run like a bat out of heck,,,

hey joker - I'm leaning toward carb icing as yer problem - how's the humidity been down there? does it happen mostly early in the day? 1 carb or 2? what aircleaner? try that good warmup thing b4 you drive away

Bill

Seems like w/o a warmup or Heet in the tank my carbureted stuff always dies at the stop sign about a mile from my house, once I popped the hood quickly enough & saw the ice on the outside of the 2bbl on the F350, watched it melt away & it restarted immediately. Seems it can happen when its warmer than I thought, very humid here always, maybe it has ta do w/dew point, latent heat of vaporization or whatever. Gas station owner told me there is no more "winter" fuel or alcohol added due to everything being injected nowadays. All 3 carbed trucks do it, but the s10 & wife's car are fine(injected). Brian

about 7 this morning, while it was cool and damp(cool for here anyway) truck started up as usual, let it idle for seem like forever, probably about 15 min till it reached close to 180 degree, took off for a drive, went thru all four gears hard and steady, drove it about 15 min, it never stalled , die, or do nothing except run like a bat out of heck, so..............this may mean I have no lose wireing,,,and although I have ran it well without one of those carb-warm up deals, that may be my next option, in the morning, I will start it as usual , let it warm up for just a few min,not to operating temp, drive off and see if the gremlin is back,,,, although I thought it may have been electrical, I see no way that a fully warmed up truck or not would be effected by anything electrical...agree or not... thanks..Fred

you got it Fred - it's carb icing, just need more warmup time when humidity is high

Bill

Bill, thanks,, I hope so, this deal has been drivin me nuts..hate to drive anthing that is not running like it is suspose to,, my wife says, but it is an old truck, I am too, but it dont take me forever to warm up