| |
BUSY BOLTERS Are you one?  The Shop Area
continues to pull in the most views on the Stovebolt. In August alone there were over 22,000 views in those 13 forums.
| | Click on image for the lowdown. 
====
| | | Forums66 Topics126,781 Posts1,039,298 Members48,100 | | Most Online2,175
Jul 21st, 2025 | | | | Joined: Oct 2002 Posts: 99 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Oct 2002 Posts: 99 | I'm in the process of welding in patch panels into the floor of my cab and I've noticed that the front bracket seems to be bent slightly up, causing the floor to buckle some. It can be seen fairly well here: Pic 1 Pic 2 The cab is sitting on the frame with the rear mounts bolted down. The doors are removed from the cab and there is no current extra bracing (I know, could be asking for trouble) but everything I measure seems to show the cab is square, the door spacing is good, and nothing appears shifted besides the front mounts (and it's the same story on the driver's side as well). What is the best way to correct this? If this isn't corrected will it cause any other issues down the road? I also was able to find a center cover for the cab floor that will be installed sometime in the next month or so, which I'm hoping will help correct the situation. Oh, one last note - I've started to attach the front sheet metal to dry-fit everything before final body work and paint, and everything seems to be matching up well.
Neil
1955 Chevy 3200
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2006 Posts: 3,597 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2006 Posts: 3,597 | I took a self-tapping screw about 1-inch long through that bracket into the frame. First I lagged it into the frame before I put the pan in. I drilled a 3/4 hole in the new pan right over where it was in the bracket (socket can then be used to remove). When welding was all complete I removed the lag screw (so I could pull the cab)and covered the hole with one of those chrome push plugs from Home Depot. It makes it all come out nice and level afterwards. You can see the plug just ahead of the battery cover. http://community.webshots.com/photo/2273388460102454676aglcki | | | | | Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 | Neil,
I'm pretty unsophisticated, I'd just do a few trial jumps on the area to get a feel of how much 'oomph' it took to spring it back down. If you go a hair too far it would be easy to slowly jack it back up.
I just looked under my cab and there isn't much structure holding that panel. Maybe my approach is too crude for you, but that's the first thing I would do.
Stuart | | | | | Joined: Dec 2006 Posts: 443 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Dec 2006 Posts: 443 | 3Lb hammer & 2x4. 
1957 Chevrolet 1/2-ton Stepside LB in the Gallery My Photobucket shots The person who has nothing for which he is willing to fight, nothing which is more important than his own personal safety, is a miserable creature and has no chance of being free unless made and kept so by the exertions of better men than himself." - John Stuart Mill (1806 - 1873) | | | | | Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 3,068 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 3,068 | I was gonna say, just pound it back into shape,
Scott | | | | | Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,112 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,112 | If the floor isn't welded in yet, you need to have something supporting the front of the cab. I used vertical 2x4s on the firewall, resting on the frame. | | | | | Joined: Oct 2002 Posts: 99 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Oct 2002 Posts: 99 | Thanks for all of the replies! Truckernix, that makes perfect sense now... I couldn't understand why the floor would move but everything else would stay aligned. I'll try using the 2x4s the next time I'm in the garage. Thanks again!
Neil
1955 Chevy 3200
| | |
|
|
| |
