The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop NEED IDEAS ON 235 REBUILD WANT MORE POWER!

Hey everyone, I'm not so much looking for part as, I'am Ideas, thought I would give you guys a few ideas I have on rebuilding my 235, and See what yall think and if anyone can give me better advice? (LIKE IF YALL THINK I'M MESSING UP SOMEWHERE) please make sure to post me back,or just tell me what you think I'm lack'n on. I'm think'n something like pulling my 235 and breaking it apart, I'm up in the air about the crank, Do any of yall know if a crank from a GMC 265(THINK THAT's WRIGHT) will fit in a 235, if line bored to size. If so, if I can find a set of pistions to build more compression after shot ping'n the block and cook'n it clean, then working the HEAD (SURFACE'N and the PORT AND POLISH) I'm think'n the headers (I already have a split manifold off of a 216 with a 305 outlet)and maybe either a small 4 barrel or 3 downdrafts, going to a electric fuel pump, then some kind of cam from patrick's antique auto, the crome dress kit, and some nice high heat chevy orange. Still don't know if there is a High performance oil pump or water pump for the motor just ain't looked yet, But if any of you guys out there have ever really built and hopped up a 235 any advice you can give will help me, also I'm swap'n the 3 speed for a 200 r4 and I have a 79 Z28 camero rear axle 3:75 gears, just to let yall know, so thinks for take'n the time to look. Post me back Please.

You're probably thinking of a GMC 270, and no, it won't swap. The GMC engines are longer, and there's no way the crankshafts will interchange. With enough time and money, it's possible to increase the stroke on the 235 crankshaft, however. The old adage "there's no substitute for cubic inches" still holds true, so if you can find a 261 engine to hotrod, you'll be ahead of the game from the beginning. The 261 will bolt in anywhere a 235 will fit, and it's more likely to respond well to go-fast modifications. With the right bore and stroke setup, a 261 can get to almost 300 cubic inches.

Anytime you start doing major modifications on a stovebolt engine, get ready to spend some serious money! The parts aren't as plentiful or as cheap as small block V-8 stuff, and the oldtimers who know how to wring the best performance out of these old engines are getting scarce, too!

If you're near Nashville, drop me a private message, and we can talk in a little more detail.
Jerry

go to www.webrodder.com and search for the stroker stovebolt series of articles. you will find much info there but it is as Hotrod Lincoln says, pretty expensive to not gain an incredible amount of power.

Welcome aboard justjosh, nice to have you join us. This is the right place for the answers you want as we have a lot of really qualified folks here. I'm not really one of those but if you wish to look at what I did to mine check out the link below the signature line.

Per the Desktop Dyno I am at 170HP and most of my knowledgeable Inliners buddies agree with that assessment. H-R-L is totally correct that finding big gains on a 235 or Jimmy takes cubic dollars as well as cubic inches. Much more so than a SBC does.
I'm into mine for over $3K and it is still puny but lots of fun and so cool. I was lucky to find a 78 y/o guy who still did some rebuilding and used to race these old girls so he knew his business. He's gone, too bad.

Just as an aside you might be interested in the potential of these engines given enough time, talent and money thrown at them. My friend who runs a dragster with a 320 Jimmy gets 700 HP from it and that is a NON aspirated engine. I was recently reading about a guy who raced Jimmys consistantly at 6800 RPM and up 8200 RPM with his own aluminum head. He also won regularly against V8's on circle tracks so it can be done but most of us have too little time and money to ever get there. But it is still a marvel that it is possible with a 70 y/o design. So never let anyone run down your old six banger.

no substitute for cubic inches but be careful you don't make the cyclinder walls too thin great thing about the 235s is the are nearly indestructable you thin out those walla your just asking for blow outs cracked blocks and always a favorite warping

btw greg ty for the great link

another good source for inline power tips is at the inliners club of america

well port work is easy you just need a reamer and a little work to blend them in. take a mill cut off the head about .030. you can get shorty headers for about $135-140 from speedway motors. they will work way better then a split manifold. as for carbs go with a dual carb manifold with 2 staged 2 barrels. that will give better fuel distrabution then one carb bumping in the middle. with some mods you can use a late model hei distruibtor.

the stock oil pump is good enough and so is the stock fuel pump. same for the water pump.

the first money you should spend is for the book: california bills chevrolet gmc & buick speed manual.

if you can find a 261 chevy or a 270 or 302 gmc you would be farther ahead.

i ran a 36 chevy coupe with a 261 with bual carbs fenten headers hotter cam. muncie 4sp and a 3.73 rear then i put that same motor in a 61 biscaye.

had a 261 with dual corvar carbs fenten headers. in my 62 3/4 ton truck it towed nice.

HEy thanks guys See I'm glad I found this page I was checking out my truck last night and I'm for sure going to get into the motor Where the motor had been sitting I think one of the back valves is starting to tick I just don't want to dorp one and mess up the head I got, Here is another ? I have for you guys, Is it possible to see the old stuff off of my truck to pay for the new stuff is anyone looking for the old drum breaks up frount or the old head to try and go back 100% to factory?