The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop 216 Engine Help

Hi guys, I just got my truck and I want to get it running. When I did my initial inspection, I noticed this little problem. What is this and how do I fix it? Thanks.

www.216engine.blogspot.com

stotman,

The pictures are a tad dark, but it looks like the overflow tube on your center oiler is broken off. While it isn't real necessary to repair it, if you're industrious, you could remove the busted piece of tube and solder a new tube in.

This would involve removing the center oiler, so it might be more trouble than it's worth. More opinions will be coming on this I'm sure. It will work fine the way it is.

Stuart

As Stuart says, the pictures are a little dark, but it almost looks as if the oil supply line to the rocker arm shafts is missing. The 1951 Shop Manual, page 6-5 and page 6-38 is not real helpful, but take a look and see if your engine has the tube from the pushrod cavity to the head and rocker arm center fitting. The drawing on page 6-5 is of the 235; I could not quickly locate a good illustration of the 216. You might want to look through some of the other shop manuals on this great site.

Hoyt

stotman,

Hoyt may be right, it does look like the supply tube. With the picture he linked, you should be able to figure out if it's the supply for the rockers, or just the overflow tube. If it is indeed the supply, when you start the truck, that broken pipe coming up through the head would have oil coming out of it.

Stuart

Thanks for the info so far.

Look at the first photo. This is where the pipe comes from the block. I tried to take off the top screw, but it will not come off as the broken copper pipe will not let it. I tried to take off the lower insert, but man it is on there. Does the copper pipe connect to something further inside the block?

stotman,

Ahaaaaa! Now I can see what's going on in the first picture. You have successfully twisted the rocker supply line off. Don't feel bad, it's actually soldered to the fitting, but you wouldn't know that unless you did a bunch of research first.

That line passes through the water jacket from the drivers side. It pops out under the exhaust manifold and connects to the oil distributor, which has a steel cover and a line near it...take a look, you will see it.

You will have to buy the kit to replace the entire line from oil distributor up to the center oiler. That is the 'main vein' for lube to the upper end. There is another curly-cue piece of copper tube that comes out of the center oiler and just dumps into the head area.

That line is the overflow and isn't attached or plugged into anything. The picture Hoyt linked shows a later version with its supply coming off the rear cam bearing. In that picture, you can see the oil distributor valve on the right hand side of the engine. Your supply tube actually passes through the water jacket in route to that valve.

The tube must penetrate the water jacket, but be able to seal it where it exits...hence the factory soldered fitting on one end.

Are you confused yet?

EDIT. Look at this link.

http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1938/38csm149.html

Stuart

I twisted my oil tube off that runs through the block also, I did'nt know how it was put together until I broke it. I was going to try and get a piece of soft copper and solder it,using the old fittings, has anybody tried that?

My rebuilder got mad at me for having cut that line during disassembly (I don't remember doing it). They went to quite a bit of aggravation to replace the line ("They don't hardly sell that size tubing any more" says he), and let me know it, AND pay for the privilege - over $150, if I recall. I didn't bother telling him that, had he asked me, I could have pointed him to Chevs of the 40s and get it for $20.00 plus shipping. Seems well worth it, even if you paid for overnight shipping.

My two cents, anyway . . .

-Michael

Man, you guys are life savers.

Not that it matters, but I did not bust it off, it came that way with the truck.

Anyway, I will order the parts and try to fix it.

stotman,

You're forgiven! When you get the replacement kit, read the directions several times....you only get one chance with each kit. Good luck and keep us posted.

Stuart

Just in case you are interested, this was part of Chevrolets "advanced four way oiling system" as quoted from the literature. They said that this helped warm the oil supply to the rockers. In reality, someone had the nightmare of a job figuring out how to get the oil supply from the opposite side of the block, up to the rockers. In spite of it all, I love my 216!

Jin Carter sells the replacement line and fittings all soldered and ready to install for around 12 bucks.I have to correct myself.It's up to 22 bucks. Here's the link.
Part #MEO199


http://www.oldchevytrucks.biz/47_55/full.asp?page=104

Thanks for the link. I am going to order the repair line from Jim Carter.

Obsolete Chevy sells the Rocker oiler unit and I will order one of those also.

Any idea how difficult it is to remove the rocker assembly?

I was able to remove the old line from the water jacket.

The rocker assembly is esaily unbolted by undoing the hold down bolts on the rocker arm. This includes the nuts on the two studs. When you reinstall it, you will have to adjust the valves.

Cool, I am assuming adjusting the valves will not be hard?

Stuart will probably know better than I, but I don't recall there being anything tricky about it. Nothin' a few box wrenches can't handle. Just keep track of everything - maybe snap a few photos of the whole she-bang before you tear it apart. I seem to recall that there are R. Hand and L. Hand rockers, for both intake and exhaust. Keep the order straight. Common wisdom is that the rockers should stay mated with their respective push rods, so best not to change the order (I've never quite understood this: if you're going to re-adjust the valve lash anyway, who cares if the rockers are mated to different push-rods?)

Worst part is probably having to adjust the valves on re-assembly!

-Michael

Check the tech tips section for a cool instruction on setting the valves without having to rotate the engine everytime you change cylinders.

When you get to that point, re-post if you need help figuring out Top-dead-center and valve adjusting. If you haven't done it before, it's pretty cool to learn how to do it. I, at least, feel a tiny bit more like a man knowin' I can time and adjust the valve lash on a (old) six cylinder engine!

-Michael

There are a few things to be aware of. When you take the rocker arm off, there are some washers and springs on the center fixture that can go flying when you pull it apart. Also, when you lift up a pushrod, often the lifter will lift up too because of the top of the lifter and bottom of the pushrod form a ball and socket that sticks together with the oil. It is possible to pull a lifter out of the bore and have it end up laying on its side on the ledge inside the side cover. Ask me how I know!