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#50537 09/26/2005 5:32 PM | Joined: May 2003 Posts: 224 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: May 2003 Posts: 224 | so im in the process of rebuilding my carter yf. a friend of mine suggested that after i take it all apart that i sandblast it all and then dip it in the carb. cleaner acid and after that blow air through everything. ifeel a little hesitant in doing this. is this a common practise im just not familiar with or is it just a really bad idea? | | |
#50538 09/26/2005 5:54 PM | Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 | Murdoc,
I agree with you...that is real FISHY!! A good tank of carb cleaner will take everything off and out, including your skin. I would think your friend actually meant glass beading as opposed to sand blasting. The carb body is pot metal and the glass can embed itself in the
material quite easily. I don't think this is common pratice among rebuilders, but I have been known to be wrong quite often.
Stuart. | | |
#50539 09/26/2005 6:08 PM | Joined: Apr 2002 Posts: 1,571 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Apr 2002 Posts: 1,571 | I blasted (using either glass bead or aluminum oxide - I can't remember which) an old Zenith updraft carb for my dad's Fjord AA. There was so much gunk and surface rust on it that it went through a treatment of blast, soak in carb cleaner, dry, repeat for a few weeks before it was completely clean. After three or four rounds of that, and a fresh powder coating job and a rebuit kit, it runs great. | | |
#50540 09/26/2005 10:40 PM | Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 58 Member | | Member Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 58 | The only way I would blast die cast is with plastic media or walnut shells, anything stronger will do damage. | | |
#50541 09/27/2005 3:55 AM | Joined: Jun 2000 Posts: 2,773 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2000 Posts: 2,773 | Not recommended for all the reasons stated above, and the fact that you will remove any finish the carburetor has left. Buy the gallon can of carb cleaner and place the disassembled carb in it to soak overnight, at least. Then take a nylon brush with stiff bristles (the GI toothbrush for cleaning guns is what I use) and start scrubbing. Scrub some, soak it again, and continue until it's clean.
Fred
52 3600
69 C-10
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#50542 09/27/2005 6:50 PM | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 1,624 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: May 2005 Posts: 1,624 | I own a small metal refinishing business on the side. I would try all the soaking and brushing tricks first. If all else fails, take it to a pro who uses hulls or soda ash as a blast media.
Six volt guy living in a twelve volt world
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#50543 09/28/2005 1:55 AM | Joined: May 2003 Posts: 224 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: May 2003 Posts: 224 | sweet great input guys, i was pretty sure it wasnt a good idea. ill start the rebuild tomarrow | | |
#50544 09/28/2005 11:19 PM | Joined: Oct 2001 Posts: 3,458 Extreme Gabster | | Extreme Gabster Joined: Oct 2001 Posts: 3,458 | You can soak it in lye for several weeks without damaging the metal. That will remove all the grease and varnish, and it's better for your lungs. Just don't get it on your skin.
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