The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop torque tube vs open driveline

Hi folks!

What are some pro's and con's about torque tube drivelines? I am contemplating putting one of Patricks ring and pinion sets in my 53-3100 Pick up. It still has the 3 on the tree, and I am not intending to change that out. It has a 235 motor, in which Patrick says it should be a good match with his 3:55 ratio. Any comments would be great. I see alot about swapping drivelines, but don't know the good or bad about torque tubes.

Thanks

Kevin

Service and lakc of gear availability atre the main issues. They can be tricky to work on if major service is needed, like say a U joint or front seal. As far as people swapping out for open drive, usually it's in concert with a non-torque tube compatible trans (like a 5 speed T5), or use of an engine/trans combo that won't work with it (350/700R4), or, in most cases, just rying to get a better ratio than stock with as little cost as possible. Many times, it's a combination of the 3.

Kevin,

http://www.chevytrucks.org/tech/torquetube.htm

If you get the 3.55 kit from Patrick's, you might as well buy his installation kit. My 54 Suburban was relatively quiet before making the 3.55 conversion with the parts kit. It is noticeably quieter now. And, it cruises easily at 60+ mph (new original-style brakes and a tight front end).

Tim

One of the main reasons people swap out the torque tube is money. To rebuild the thing and install the 3:55 R&P is going to run you around $700 just for parts. From what I've been told (I restored my torque tube and did the R&P) you can get an newer open driveshaft unit for under a $100.

That's a pretty big issue to deal with.

Personally I'm glad I sucked it up and kept mine stock. I like the idea of having it that way.

Patrick will make a very convincing case for keeping it stock even if you do not buy parts from him. He is extremely knowledgeable and one of the hobbies best friends. I trust him and so can you.

For what it is worth, I would keep the closed driveline, and go with the upgraded rearend. Ok maybe I am missing something. I put in a new front U-joint two years ago. While I didn't remove the rear joint, it appears that the driveline is a typical solid splined shaft with a lube filled outer shroud. It couldn't cost that much to rebuild it. Maybe if you had a new inner shaft machined it would cost some major bucks. If you were trying to mate a stock driveline to a different rearend I could see it costing you. When I get to that part I plan to do the Patricks gears, and keep the old driveline. I have gone through the frontend with the exception of king pins and 60 MPH scares the crap out of me. The brakes are fine, but there is just enough slop in the steering to make that speed interesting!

I did the Patrick's swap out on my '46 in 1997. I was already running a '54 235 with 16 x 7.00 tires to get as much road speed as i could. The 3:55 let's me cruise at 62 comfortably all day. The 235's got plenty of power to pull the taller rear end gearing. Also I'm 12 years into the swap with no problems whatsoever.

Frankly, in my opinion, the torque tube driveline was pretty poor engineering. Most people will tell you that a driveshaft should have two U-joints for vibration cancellation - the torque tube drivelines only have one. The other engineering problem is getting lube to the U-joint. I burned them up like crazy until I started partially filling the pipe tap on my heavy duty 4-speed with w140 when I do an oil change.

That said I like my trucks closer to original, so I kept the torque tube.

David Bush

Thank You guys for all your response. I will be keeping it the way it is and swapping the ring and pinion, along with the install kit. Patrick said he will have it to me in a couple of weeks. Now for the fun part.

Thanks again

Kevin

If the seals are good and the oil level correct, the u-joint should be lubricrated and not burn up. I've had my 54 3100 for 33 years and have never replaced the u-joint.
Samantha

For the guys with the big trucks like 3/4 ton's and 1 ton's have short tubes that go as far as the support bearing and from there on its open drive. So there is no worry in changing out rearends to a newer 8 lug rearend with 3.73 gears instead of the stock 4.56 gears.

For AD trucks
Some (or all?) 3/4 tons have this half and half enclosed/open driveshaft arrangement.
All 1 tons have a completely open driveshaft, and 5.14 gears are normal.

Grigg

In 1954, the 3600 (3/4 ton) trucks did not have the short, enclosed, driveshaft tube (as they did in earlier A-D years).

A torque-tube does not have vibration troubles, unless the driveshaft is bent. That would seem to be an uncommon occurrence, since the driveshaft is enclosed Here's another description of torque-tube system.

Tim

Who carries parts for an enclosed drive shaft? 1953 3100 chevy

Which parts?

If you are in Gilbert Arizona my mileage calculator tells me you are 30 miles from Casa Grande. There you will find someone who not only has the parts but can swap out the entire unit for a replacement in one day. This guy is worth a visit and be sure to ask for a catalog. I used his ring, pinion, and install set as well.


http://www.patricksantiquecars.com/