The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop valve adjustment on 250 cid

For my first time I will be getting a re-man head for my 67 c-10's 250 that I will need to adjust the valves...need some sage advice here...I have had as many different methods as I have asked people... :confused:

any help would be greatly appreciated by
me and the "green meanie" as my young son calls the old '67... getting the head form Carquest and hoping their suppliers are making good product...

You sure theyre not hydraulic? My 1968 is.

It had lifters or pushrods as some guys I know call them..12 of them...they came out a bit dirty but in good shape when I pulled the old head...the guy at Carquest who is ordering my re-man head said they should be fine to re-use as long as they are straight and undamaged...the adjustment when they go back in is where I need guidance...I have been told several different methods but not sure what is the best way to go...

With the piston on or near the compression stroke, tighten the adjustment nut untill the slack is out of it. Then tighten it down 3/4 turn more.

thanks but you may have to expand on that for a poor lost soul...
compression stroke...as in with the rods or rocker all the way down postition?

First if you took the lifters out did you kept up were they were if you didn't you will needed to get new lifters are you could damage the cam by putting old lifters on it. next take all of the plugs out and you can turn the engine over for each cyl. with your finger over the plug hole until the air moves your finger then it should be close to the compression stroke, adjust like said before, if stock engine I would go the 3/4 turn pass zero slack, if not stock would only do about 1/4 to 1/2 pass zero slack. do each cyl. this way. Are you can run them down some and get it started and tighten each one until it stops clicking and then go 1/4 to 3/4 pass to set them. if you have to replace the lifters you needed to break them in on the cam by get it started and running at 1500 to 2000 rpm for 15 to 20 minutes as soon as you get it started. Are you could damage the cam. hope this helps

Super250six

thanks sounds reasonable...
irt to the old lifters they look all identical to me and they are showing no damage or bends or distortions on the bottoms that were riding against the cam and the holes in the rods are all open and clear for lubrication..seems like they should be ok...they weren't noisy before...the reason I pulled the head was smoking and I suspected burnt valves and or bad valve seals/guides...
if the parts needing to wear together theory is in play here seems like new lifters would violate that as well as not having the old ones placed in the same spots they came from??

I had never heard they had to go back in the same spots before...