The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop '63 chevy driveline squeak

Ok, so, after I very long interval of concentrating on other interests, such as starting college, I have been cruising the forum and now have a question to present to ya'll.

So, after driving my truck across town today, I quickly noticed that I have a serious squeak. The squeak has been there, but I previously dismissed it as a minor problem, but today it proved to be much more vocal.
The squeak is from the driveline, and most likely has something to do with the clutch, since i am wwaayy overdue for a new one. When I let the clutch out (withs it's 1 1/2" of takeup), esp form a dead stop, i have a very metallic squeak that starts slowly and increases in speed with the vehicle's speed. The sound comes from somewhere under the cab (transmission?). When I put the clutch in, the noise goes away, and the truck does not squeak while moving when it is out of gear. Are we walking bearing, U-joint, or what? Any ideas, gearheads? Much thanks in advance.

You've got a dry U-joint. Shortly, all the needle bearings will rust away and fall out, and the squeak will turn into a loud clunk. Then you can watch as the driveshaft rolls away down the street. I'd reccomend that you replace all the U-joints as soon as possible.
Jerry

only other thing you might want to check is the clutch adjustment. I the to bearing is running against the pressure plate you can get what you describe. When you push the clutch in it puts enough pressure on bearing so the noise stops. Most likely tho it will be a u-joint as Jerry suggests.

Ok ,thanks so much, ya'll. I thought it might be the u-joints.
So, here's the next question: How do you replace the u-joints? I am mechanical, but I learn as I go. I know you have to drop the driveshaft, and to do this, you have to compress the little rings in the U-joints to get them out and unbolt something? Something like that? I'm sure when I get under it, I can figure it out, but is there anything else i need to know? Should be a pretty easy task, right?

i would seriously look at the throw out bearing !

Throw out bearing- this is one I have no idea how to go about checking. Is it inside the bellhousing, in between the flexplate and clutch? Help there?

63whoopie,

If it's u-joints, it will only make noise when you drive...if it's the throwout bearing, it won't be dependent on the truck moving down the road. Pretty easy to differentiate between the two...plus the u-joint squeak is like no other noise, faint, high pitched and usually cyclic. A bum throwout bearing doesn't sound this way and can usually be manipulated with the clutch pedal.

Stuart

does it have only one drive shaft? if it has a carrier bearing it might be that as well. i had one on my 64 and it started squeeking like that. you could reach under and feel it was getting hot. good luck.

63whoopie,
If it is the U-joints or the center bearing, take a minute to read the repair manual. Your truck more than likely has a 2 piece drive shaft. Mark both shafts before taking them apart.
Also, the carrier bearing may need to be pressed off, and everything needs to be assembled exactly the way it came apart. Failure to reassemble it correctly will cause a vibration that will be much worse than the squeek you now have.
Fred

I thought as long as I was taking the driveshaft out, I'd repalce both u-joints. The driveshaft is one piece; i got it out in the parking lot, and got the rear- U-joint out, but after strategically whacking on the front one (the one I believe is the problem), I failed to get it out.
So, I had my great AAA coverage tow me home at absolutely no cost. I was thinking of heating up the U-joint with a propane torch, and then plunging it into some ice water to see if i could make it shrink enough to beat it out. Also, a good treatment of some penetrating oil (WD-40 or that PB-Blaster?) would aide in loosening it from the input to the transmission.

Is this an approved method? And I was a little late in reading about marking the driveshaft; what do I need to do about that? Thanks again.

63whoopie,

On a single piece drive shaft there are no alignment issues so marking isn't needed. I sure wouldn't put heat on the shaft, and the method you outlined would be pointless anyway.

R&R of the u-joints isn't complicated, but it is specific, and if you know how to do it, you can get it done. The explanation isn't short, so I'll let some body else chime in with that. Good luck.

Stuart

i have had trouble with a few i have done. they just needed a bigger hammer and bigger vise. i know of a driveshaft shop here that would change it out for $20 if you have the part, might be worth it if you are having trouble. good luck.

You might see if you can rent a U joint press from the flaps. That will make the job much easier. I don't see a problem with heating up the ears to help free it up, just be cautious, as the grease in the joint can explode, sending U jount shrapnell flying. I would put pressure on it with a press, heat, then increase the pressure until it came out. Use some anti-seize in the ears to help with the reinstallation.

So, I went home today and it took me all of 15 minutes to get the U-joints out with a 5 lb. hammer and the right size socket to drive against. However, I did not install the new U-joints, because of a problem-

The slip yoke that slides into the transmission has been worn very strangely around it's top, and is chipped at the top where the splined interior is. If I knew how to post pictures, I would ( I will try to learn this week.) Guess i need a new one of those. Does this denote some sort of abnormal wear in the transmission?

Being a 1 pc. drive shaft you are OK,dont need to mark it.
As far as the front universal, Ive never had much luck with a propane torch to get a stubborn one out, usually oxy/acetalene is needed to get it hot enough, or acess to a 10 or 20 ton press wich I PREFER.
I dont like to put the heat wrench to things unless I have to.
Ya might be best off to run the drive shaft to bought any local shop as they do em on a regular basis, u-joints are the biggest wear items next to brakes, if ya dont have the tools needed, cost will not be much to press out an install the new ones and then ya can just take it home an put it back on.
Just a thought.
Tim