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Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,035 Posts1,055,560 Members48,426 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Jul 2005 Posts: 5 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Jul 2005 Posts: 5 | Oh boy. I was taking some measurements on a frame that I bought recently that has a front steer nova clip on it. having a hard time lining things up. It appears that the PO has welded the new clip on the frame 1/4" off. Frame fab isn't really my area of expertise, so I'm looking for help, please! Is this too far off to ignore for a weekend cruiser? Or do I really need to fix this? Seems kinda careless considering the nice welds. Thanks in advance for any info. | | | | | Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,760 Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) | | Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,760 | If you can identify where it's out of square, it's going to be better to fix it. A 45 degree diagonal cut with an abrasive saw blade should shortren the long side enough to correct the misalignment, and you can pull the gap together and tack weld it. Check everything out for proper dimensions before doing the final full welds.
I like to do my frame buildup on a totally flat, level floor, using jackscrew type stands to align all the pieces before doing any welding. If the floor happens to have built-in chain anchors, so much the better. With a little tension on a few chains, a frame can be tweaked into any shape the builder desires. On the round track cars, we will sometimes build in a little twist or out-of-square on purpose, but all we're interested in is "Go fast- - - -turn left!" Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
| | | | | Joined: Feb 2006 Posts: 649 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2006 Posts: 649 | 3600, can you supply a few more measurements? A 1/4" isn't all that much. Where are you having the problem, side to side, up/down, ect., You say the welds look good so one would assume the P/O spent extra time lining things up. Also double check your measuring points, the left side of my 69 Nove subframe is not identical to the right, almost found out the hard way. | | | | | Joined: Jul 2005 Posts: 5 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Jul 2005 Posts: 5 | I wish I had known before the cab and front sheet metal was almost on. I dont know exactly where to mesure it, but I tryed from several different points. Such as from the center of the lower ball joint on the nova frame to the first crossmember on the chevy frame. It seems to be crooked in a way that would make the right side have a longer wheelbase.
hotrod- thanks for the idea. would you recommend putting some sort of plate behind the weld area?
yakima- I just went and checked, I think he also did the same for the rear end. dogtrack, anyone? | | | | | Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 5,198 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 5,198 | Get the frame setting as level as you can on the driveway, garage floor or on adjustable jack stands. Next you will need a piece of string and a pointed weight. Start at each corner with the string held up to a given point on the frame and let the weight just skim the ground. Mark the point on the ground with a marker of some sort. Go front to back on each side marking key points all along the frame and suspension.
Now take your tape measure and measure from point to point on the ground, you will get a much better idea if its off since you can hold the tape level.
Joe | | | | | Joined: Feb 2006 Posts: 649 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2006 Posts: 649 | 3600, I found that I had a bent lower control arm, after I had welded my up. So thats why its so important to have accurate measuring points to start with. I would find a true reference point on the original "rear" section of the frame, make sure it's square and level. Then you can find a true reference point on the subframe to measure to. I wouldn't use the ball joint, grease zerk, because any suspension component can be bent/damaged. I'd also make sure the rear axle is centered/squared up, then check the wheel base. Last resort you can have a local body or frame shop check it out for you, cost anywhere form $100.00 to $200.00 plus extra to repair it. | | | | | Joined: Jul 2005 Posts: 5 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Jul 2005 Posts: 5 | If it doesn't snow tonight or tomorrow, I'll see if I can get out there to check it. Thanks for the help! | | | | | Joined: Nov 2008 Posts: 465 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2008 Posts: 465 | just a note, I thought my frame was way off ,do I took it to the frame shop for an alignment. It wasn't too bad ,but my cab was the problem. All the patching and welding needed to be corrected. | | |
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