The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area General Truck Talk Steering wheel question

I am changing my '37 steering box over to a '46 box. I am cutting the steering shafts so I can keep the '37 wheel and upper bushing.

My question is, does the steering wheel spoke point up or down when centered? The '46 wheel has splines so it can go any which way, but it looks to marked so one of the spokes was pointing straight down to wards your lap. My original '37 gear box had the spoke pointing straight up when the wheel is centered, but I just wanted to double check.

The '37 has a key way and only goes one way, and when I weld the old shaft to the new, I want the wheel right.

Joe

On my '46 the spoke is supposed to point right at your guts. Frankly, remembering those driver's ed movies from way back when in high school, I reversed my wheel so that the spoke points up. I've seen pictures where the wheel rim separated in a crash and people got gutted by that spoke. Makes it a little harder to see the speedo, but I'm not usually too concerned with that.

My $.02

David B

I don’t know for sure but with my ’41 single spoke pointed straight down the other two sorta end up just to either side of the instruments on the dash. Makes them maybe easer to see

Hi Joe -
I have the 46 box installed in my 37 that I bought from you. I did the same thing - I cut the shaft and welded the top of the 37 shaft to the bottom of the 41-46 shaft. When I did, I set it up so that one spoke goes straight down and the two others form a "V" at the top. That's the way my 37 steering box was set up in the truck. I believe that is the correct way so you can see the spedometer as you drive. In my case, I also have a steering knob on my truck and it seems very natural for it to be on the top right spoke when driving down the road. Finally, I will tell you that I did research the issue and ran into a brick wall when I found pictures of two different 37 Chevrolet trucks, one with the spoke centered at the top and another with the spoke down and the "V" up. These were factory pictures, so I decided I would do it the way that was most comfortable for me. I will take the time to ask some of the VCCA members and see what they say and, in fact, just ask one whose truck won a VCCA show in Denver a few years back. I started to do that a few years ago, but never did. I'll let you know what I find out.
Joe

I should have held on to that box longer Joe!

I like the way the wheel looks with the spoke straight up, I just hope I can weld it on the other box with out turning one of them a little.

I learned something while messing with these two, the '37 box is 3.8 turns lock to lock, the '46 box is almost 5 turn lock to lock, so that makes it about 20 to 1 ratio while the older box is about 15.2 to 1 ratio, its no wonder they drive easy. I just figured it was the roller ball design, I never considered the ratios.

Also, 41 steering boxes use 1/4" balls in them and the '42-'46 use the 9/32" ball. I am not sure how the vender's sell one rebuild kit for '41-'46.

Joe

I have to admit to you Joe that I wasn't happy with the box I bought from you until about a month ago. I had put "gold grease" in the box instead of a "flowing" grease. It worked OK, but not as easily as I had hoped. Finally I took it apart and cleaned all of the grease out and filled it with Penrite grease, which is a "flowing" grease. I thought it was full, but finaly realized I had not put enough in. I added more about two times before I could get a definite drop of grease on the end of my little finger when I put it in the steering box. I immediately grabbed the steering knob through the window and turn the wheel, with the truck standing in the garage, from lock to lock easier then ever before. Now, I'm happy with it!!
I'll guarantee you will be happy with yours!! But, be sure to use the RIGHT grease!
I'm still waiting for an answer on the wheel position. I'll get that info to you ASAP!
Good to talk to you!
Joe

I talked with my grease supplier at work and he found me some tubes of NGLI 00 grade grease. He said it will flow and do just what I wanted. I was worried about the grease getting into the roller balls. Joe

I've been using 140W gear lube in my '46 for many years with no problems.

David Bush

Joe -
I sent you an email from a VCCA member about his steering wheel on his 37. His sits in the straight forward position, as I thought, with one spoke straight down and the two others making a "V". So now we know for sure. I don't really see a problem with setting it up the other way, if that's what you want.
Regarding the grease, my guess would be that you would not lose any grease if all the gaskets are new. The other thing I did is used copper washers under those bolts that ran into the area that holds the grease to seal against leakage around the bolts. That way the grease area is sealed off in all ways.
Hope all this helps! Let me know if you need anything else.
Joe

On the grease issue. The original spec calls for 600W lube. I've been digging into this and it is possible to purchase 600W lube but the equivalent grease I've found is sold at John Deere tractor stores and is called. Corn Head Grease, part #AN102562. A 14oz tube cost me $3.60. The NLGI is correct but I think that you want a "O" grade grease.

good luck
Don

Corn Head Grease has been mentioned in the past as a good choice for steering boxes. It is available at John Deere Dealers and I think Tractor Supply carries it.

Joe, I sent you and email about steering wheel placement, but it bounced back. That's why I posted the information here.

Finally (again), one last comment. The "keyway" on a 37 truck steering wheel does put the wheel with a spoke straight up if you suscribe to the idea that the keyway should be at the top of the hub and the shaft when the steering wheel is set to go straight. So, I think a guy should put it where he wants it!!

Joe

Thanks guys, the wheel position just threw me a bit because I started lining up to weld and got nervous, I am going with the spoke straight up.

The grease issue will never die I guess, I have been using Corn Head grease in the '37 for a while. I changed over when I replaced the sector shaft to a NOS from e-bay. Its been hard to steer every since. I even changed the bushings out to new ones I cut grease grooves in and it still was tight, thats why I am changing boxes. Not sure if its the grease or I am just getting old.

I want the grease/oil to flow into and around the ball nut each time I move it, thats why i am going to thinner grease. If it leaks out, I have more! I like the brass washer idea, I will look into that.

Joe