The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Some '53 3100 questions

Just acquired a 53 3100. I'll call it a survivor as the rust isn't bad and almost everything seems to be in halfway decent shape. My current plan is to bring it back by just replacing necessary stuff, pretty it up, and use it as a weekend driver. I know nothing about these trucks at this point but I'm ready for something completely different than my little red two seaters. OK, here's the questions:
- I'm kinda bummed cause I'm pretty sure the engine isn't original but I can't seem to pin down exactly what it is. Can someone help me ID this block? It's 8897001
- Does she use a ballast resistor? I assume the system is now 12V. I think it's been converted to 12V, at least there's a 12V battery in it.
- I'll have to strip and repaint. Where can I find the colors or paintchips for the 53s?

Thanks much. Bob O in beautiful Lovettsville, VA

hfguy, WELCOME ABOARD. This is the go to place for the information you seek. I have a 53 myself and have learned a great deal from others here and now find that I can assist others and am happy to do so.

Why do you think the engine isn't correct? The 216 CID was original to these but many of us have changed to the 235 or even a 261 if we can find one. The side plate on the 216 is much taller than a 235 and surrounds the sparkplugs. Two bolts in a 216 valve cover in the center and a 235 uses four screws around the outside. I'm speaking of the later full pressure 55'-62' version of the 235. I'm not knowledgable on the earlier 235's. Also, if a 12 volt battery is present then it would need a ballast resisitor for the coil. Has the rest of the system been changed too? Instruments, lamps, etc? In any event, I'll try to run your numbers and see what I come up with.

All 53's were painted Juniper Green as standard but several other colors were N/C options. I used NAPA (Sherwin Williams) paint but DuPont and others are available in most colors for the 53's. I used a BMW color for my tanish gold interior as it matched perfectly the original paint that I still had inside. I was able to mix a NAPA paint cheaper than the 40 bucks per qt. the parts outfits want.
Good Luck and post some pictures for us.

You can check mine out at www.picturetrail.com/Birdhtr

Moneypit - Checked out your site and do love your rides. I'm a Vette guy too but don't have any solid axles. Your 53 PU is very close to what I'm aiming for and that offy intake is way too cool. You did a beautiful job on that truck.

My valve cover has the perimeter 4 bolt attachment and the side plate does not cover the plugs. I had a bad ballast resistor and had to run the engine without the resister to get it started and I think I may have burned the points so it's off to see if I can find points/resistor this weekend. Hope the coil is OK. I do love working on real ignition systems with actual points. I've got a set of books on order, but not a numbers book so if you could run that block casting # for me I'd sure appreciate it. I'd really like to know what I've got in there.

What oil and weight do you run in yours? I'm a synthetic guy but don't know how these old inlines take to that stuff.

Thanks much. Bob

Bob, checked out all the casting numbers pages I could find and found nothing with an 889#. Closest is a few 839 numbers bot again nothing with your sequence. Tried 216, 235, 261, 292, etc. I think it may be a 235 or perhaps a 261 if your lucky. Where did you find that number on your engine?

Someone here is bound to come up with it if it's a legitimate number.

Thanks for the nice comments on my truck and BTW, I run 20W Pennzoil with no filter.

I couldn't find anything with that number, either. Try finding the engine serial number stamped on a pad to the rear of the distributor. It's much easier to identify exactly what an engine is and what vehicle it was originally installed in with its serial number.

For color chips, check here. The chart shows 18 colors, but only 12 were available for each model year.

If you get a Resto Pack , it will give lots of technical info, including the available colors.

I'll double check the block # when I get home from work tonight. The number I'm using is just to the right of the distributor as you're facing the passenger side of the engine.

A couple of squirts of brake kleen and the numbers on the block magically changed. Or maybe my old eyes suddenly got better. Naaaaaahhhhh.

Anyway, the (revised) block # is 3837004 which is a 55-57 235 truck engine block. Now I that I've had a chance to do a little reading, I'm not sure whether I'm happy about this or bummed. I wanted an engine original to the truck to restore and I guess this one isn't, am I correct?

Anyway, thanks for the help guys.

Regards, Bob O

Moneypit,

Would you be willing to share the paint codes you used? I'm a PPG guy since that's what I learned on, perhaps I can get then codes translated. I've been looking forever for an interior code and would be ever so grateful for both that and the Juniper codes. Is Juniper lighter than Forester (used in prior years)? That's a wonderful looking truck!!!

Thanks for giving me something to shoot for!

Jake; all the information I have is from what was written on tape on the cans. This is NAPA info and the Juniper Green is 655. The paint I used on the interior only says - "BMW trim, 97'-2004". That may not be much to go on especially the interior paint but I found it to be a very close match. I may have used a touch of flattener in it, been too long and cannot remember but the finish seems right. The green I used is a single stage acrylic but works nicely. I don't know if it is lighter than Forester Green as I had no reason to look at it.

FWIW, I have in years past used a great deal of PPG and Ditzler. I loved the way this NAPA (S-W)paint covered and flowed. I would use it again in a heartbeat. One of my major customers has a large fleet paint business and uses nothing but Sherwin Williams, now I can see why.