Labor Day Putting down your wrenches or time for MORE wrenching? 
Plenty of places to share. | | Click on image for the lowdown. 
====
| | | Forums66 Topics128,010 Posts1,055,299 Members48,419 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
| | THANKS!
For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Nov 2008 Posts: 98 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Nov 2008 Posts: 98 | i am about to start the bodywork on my 62...i have spent hours going through the forum on bodywork and it's enough to make my head spin..never painted a car before...i havent even bought a spray gun yet,won't be able to get one till after christmas. but in the meantime i can strip the fenders down to bare metal. so my question is can i just coat them with spraycan primer until i get some epoxy primer on them? or maybe some of the acid washes i have read about. | | | | | Joined: Sep 2007 Posts: 29 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Sep 2007 Posts: 29 | SPRAY BOMB,METAL WORK,SAND BACK OFF THEN EPOXY THEN FILLER WORK | | | | | Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 | Mark,
If you grind or blast your pieces to bright metal, then spray on something out of a aerosol can, technically, you will have to do the whole process again the get rid of the spray can paint.
The bond for any finish coat is only as good as the coating under it. Spray can paint wouldn't be compatible with anything truly automotive, and might cause nasty problems when you tried to over coat it with something else.
The 2k primers are impermeable when dry so your metal is safe from the elements....spray can stuff isn't and you would soon find rust appearing.
Painting procedures can be daunting but just remember that bare metal must be sealed from the environment, and whatever you put your finish coat over must be 'glued' 100% to the base metal AND must allow your finish coat to 'glue' 100% to it.
There are hundreds of formulations of paints, primers and reducers (thinners) and some don't mix well with others. Having a paint job lift as it dries will ruin your whole day.
The recipe is to prep it right, prime it right and paint it right...the first time. Good luck and it sure wouldn't hurt to go to a automotive paint store near you and chat with one of the guru's, they love to share good info.
Carpoor is right, if you do the spray bomb, you will have to sand it all back off before coating with something else. The spray can material will do little to keep the moisture out, so store you stuff inside.
Stuart | | | | | Joined: Nov 2008 Posts: 98 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Nov 2008 Posts: 98 | spraybomb...never heard that one beforeHAHA! yes, i think patience will serve me well here... i rather wait till i get a good spraygun and epoxy the bare metal. the truck is totaly dismantled so the parts can be stored out of the weather.i plan to zero rust the backs of all fenders, supposedly it is direct to metal...looks good on my frame and suspension parts. thanks for the feedback ! Mark | | | | | Joined: Sep 2007 Posts: 2,644 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2007 Posts: 2,644 | i have spent hours going through the forum on bodywork and it's enough to make my head spin Welcome to the club  There are as many opinions on prep and primer as there are guys doing it. My best suggestion is to get an HVLP gun and not bother with aerosols. Whatever primer you decide to use is good practice and by the time you're done priming everything you'll have enough experience to paint your truck. | | | | | Joined: Dec 2004 Posts: 425 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2004 Posts: 425 | i rather wait till i get a good spraygun and epoxy the bare metal. Mark Go to Harbor Freight or your local POS tool shop and buy a CHEAPO gravity feed spray gun... that's all ya need for primer, not a GOOD gun. I think you could find one for $20 | | | | | Joined: Sep 2007 Posts: 2,644 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2007 Posts: 2,644 | The HVLP guns they sell at Harbor Freight is one of the few things worth buyng there... I think the big one goes for under $60 and includes a regulator. The one I have is purple and I'm very pleased with it. | | | | | Joined: Nov 2008 Posts: 98 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Nov 2008 Posts: 98 | sounds good..all i need now is to find some resonably priced epoxy primer. thank you fellow bolters  | | | | | Joined: Jan 2007 Posts: 93 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jan 2007 Posts: 93 | On epoxy primer, I have been using Kirker Enduro from smartshopper.com. It is reasonably priced and sands well. I got it after some recommendations on other sites. Regards,
Steve New Orleans
| | | | | Joined: Jul 2005 Posts: 946 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2005 Posts: 946 | Mark, You need to plan out the entire product line before anything and make sure it is all compatible. I'm using Nason Ful-Poxy (491-16) on bare metal. Then using Evercoat (100282) for filler, Then I plan on hitting that with another coat of Ful-Poxy because you are bound to sand back to metal while blocking. Then spray Nason 2k (421-19). Now for the base/clear I am working with a shop that has successfully used Sherwin Williams products on top of the Nason. But I might just make this guy to use the Nason brand. Point is, try not to use a bunch of different products unless a professional has given you the green light. In my example above, the Evercoat is not Nason, its Metalworks but I bought it at the same place I got the Nason primers and they told me that it is perfectly fine. Finally, this link below is my road map to a good paint job. Perfect Paint Job Good luck! Michael | | | | | Joined: Nov 2008 Posts: 98 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Nov 2008 Posts: 98 | when i purchase primer and paint, i want to get it from one supplier,and use a planned system from start to finish, as mike said. i run a printing press for a living, and i know the importance of what chemicles and inks can and cannot mix. research and patience will be the ticket  | | |
| |