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#481764 12/13/2008 4:50 PM
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i am about to start the bodywork on my 62...i have spent hours going through the forum on bodywork and it's enough to make my head spin..never painted a car before...i havent even bought a spray gun yet,won't be able to get one till after christmas. but in the meantime i can strip the fenders down to bare metal. so my question is can i just coat them with spraycan primer until i get some epoxy primer on them? or maybe some of the acid washes i have read about.

62 mark #481931 12/14/2008 1:19 AM
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SPRAY BOMB,METAL WORK,SAND BACK OFF THEN EPOXY THEN FILLER WORK

carpoor #481961 12/14/2008 2:24 AM
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Mark,

If you grind or blast your pieces to bright metal, then spray on something out of a aerosol can, technically, you will have to do the whole process again the get rid of the spray can paint.

The bond for any finish coat is only as good as the coating under it. Spray can paint wouldn't be compatible with anything truly automotive, and might cause nasty problems when you tried to over coat it with something else.

The 2k primers are impermeable when dry so your metal is safe from the elements....spray can stuff isn't and you would soon find rust appearing.

Painting procedures can be daunting but just remember that bare metal must be sealed from the environment, and whatever you put your finish coat over must be 'glued' 100% to the base metal AND must allow your finish coat to 'glue' 100% to it.

There are hundreds of formulations of paints, primers and reducers (thinners) and some don't mix well with others. Having a paint job lift as it dries will ruin your whole day.

The recipe is to prep it right, prime it right and paint it right...the first time. Good luck and it sure wouldn't hurt to go to a automotive paint store near you and chat with one of the guru's, they love to share good info.

Carpoor is right, if you do the spray bomb, you will have to sand it all back off before coating with something else. The spray can material will do little to keep the moisture out, so store you stuff inside.

Stuart

atomarc #482017 12/14/2008 5:34 AM
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spraybomb...never heard that one beforeHAHA! yes, i think patience will serve me well here... i rather wait till i get a good spraygun and epoxy the bare metal. the truck is totaly dismantled so the parts can be stored out of the weather.i plan to zero rust the backs of all fenders, supposedly it is direct to metal...looks good on my frame and suspension parts. thanks for the feedback ! Mark

62 mark #482059 12/14/2008 12:52 PM
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Originally Posted by 62 mark
i have spent hours going through the forum on bodywork and it's enough to make my head spin

Welcome to the club grin There are as many opinions on prep and primer as there are guys doing it. My best suggestion is to get an HVLP gun and not bother with aerosols. Whatever primer you decide to use is good practice and by the time you're done priming everything you'll have enough experience to paint your truck.


Woody
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My 1951 half-ton 'Ol Red

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62 mark #482177 12/14/2008 8:43 PM
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Originally Posted by 62 mark
i rather wait till i get a good spraygun and epoxy the bare metal. Mark


Go to Harbor Freight or your local POS tool shop and buy a CHEAPO gravity feed spray gun... that's all ya need for primer, not a GOOD gun. I think you could find one for $20

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The HVLP guns they sell at Harbor Freight is one of the few things worth buyng there... I think the big one goes for under $60 and includes a regulator. The one I have is purple and I'm very pleased with it.


Woody
Your Brother in Bolthood

My 1951 half-ton 'Ol Red

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Czechman #483056 12/17/2008 2:01 AM
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sounds good..all i need now is to find some resonably priced epoxy primer. thank you fellow bolters grin

62 mark #483791 12/18/2008 9:27 PM
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On epoxy primer, I have been using Kirker Enduro from smartshopper.com. It is reasonably priced and sands well. I got it after some recommendations on other sites.
Regards,

Steve
New Orleans

sclor #484809 12/21/2008 5:30 PM
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Mark,
You need to plan out the entire product line before anything and make sure it is all compatible. I'm using Nason Ful-Poxy (491-16) on bare metal. Then using Evercoat (100282) for filler, Then I plan on hitting that with another coat of Ful-Poxy because you are bound to sand back to metal while blocking. Then spray Nason 2k (421-19). Now for the base/clear I am working with a shop that has successfully used Sherwin Williams products on top of the Nason. But I might just make this guy to use the Nason brand.

Point is, try not to use a bunch of different products unless a professional has given you the green light. In my example above, the Evercoat is not Nason, its Metalworks but I bought it at the same place I got the Nason primers and they told me that it is perfectly fine.

Finally, this link below is my road map to a good paint job.
Perfect Paint Job

Good luck!
Michael

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when i purchase primer and paint, i want to get it from one supplier,and use a planned system from start to finish, as mike said. i run a printing press for a living, and i know the importance of what chemicles and inks can and cannot mix. research and patience will be the ticket grin


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