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| | | Forums66 Topics128,185 Posts1,057,205 Members48,465 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Nov 2008 Posts: 16 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Nov 2008 Posts: 16 | I was just wondering if anyone else on the site has done a body transfer onto an S-10 frame? I'm planning on doing this with my 1951 Chevy 3600 and would love any tips you guys have. I've looked at the kit at http://www.e-zchassisswaps.com/index.htm and this seems like a good deal. Thanks guys. | | | | | Joined: Feb 2001 Posts: 4,095 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2001 Posts: 4,095 | www.mongosgarage.com look at this site. he is the moderator on this forumn. ron
Ron, The Computer Greek I love therefore I am.1954 3100 Chevy truckIn the Gallery 2017 Buick Encore See more pix1960 MGA Roadster Sold 7/18/2017
| | | | | Joined: Nov 2008 Posts: 16 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Nov 2008 Posts: 16 | If we are willing to lose the long-bed altogether (switch over to short bed), would that make to s-10 any easier ?? Thanks guys. | | | | | Joined: Aug 2007 Posts: 1,859 Grumpy old guy playing with trucks, cars, and boats | | Grumpy old guy playing with trucks, cars, and boats Joined: Aug 2007 Posts: 1,859 | If we are willing to lose the long-bed altogether (switch over to short bed), would that make to s-10 any easier ?? Thanks guys. Yes and No. you will still have the whole track width issue up front. IF you buy a kit you will still have the same amount of work. If you mount it yourself you will still have that work. The Standard Cab long box S-10 does fit wheel well to wheel well better than it would an 8' box. If you are looking for something that can be done with a torch and welder, anything is possible. If you are looking to mail order parts, and bolt them together in a weekend, your best bet is the 6 1/2' box and a standard cab long box S-10 chassis are the route to go. Or I can sell you a cross member to put S-10 spindles, and control arms on your existing frame in the same weekend.
The problems we face today can not be addressed at the same level of intelligence we were at when we created them - Albert Einstein Or with the same level of $ - Me
| | | | | Joined: Jul 2000 Posts: 623 "MONGO" | | "MONGO" Joined: Jul 2000 Posts: 623 | The regular cab long bed S-10 trucks are very close to the wheelbase for the 47-54 1/2 ton trucks. Our kit is meant for 1/2 ton trucks, but we've had a couple guys who started with 3/4 and 1 ton trucks and just shortened up or replaced their bed with a 1/2 ton one, when they got to that point. Depends on what your Vision is of how you want the truck to turn out. Here's a 48 that started as a 3/4 Ton Regarding the "whole track width issue" do some research on your own and decide how you feel about it. Some people don't like having to use wheel spacers on the front. In my case I know 4X4 guys who have used them for years, and circle track guys who have used them and it doesn't bother me personally. These guys beat the heck out of whatever they are driving. The kit we provide is meant to not just swap the S-10 chassis but also includes parts to move over the brake system (including the swing pedal and brake booster), accelerator pedal, the wiring harness, steering column, and we include a trans cross member and motor mounts for a V6 or V8. We also include front bumper brackets and wheelbase correctors to shift the wheelbase even closer to the stock 47-54 1/2 ton truck. Going either route, I wouldn't plan on it being a weekend deal. With a couple guys to help, and a really good game plan it can be done but it really depends on your level of experience with this type of work. I usually recommend starting with your old truck before you buy anything. Pull the front fenders and the bed and start looking seriously at your cab. The floor and cowl are usually the worst spots and if your doing a chassis swap or just an IFS to make the truck more drive able if the cab is rocking on it's mounts it's not going to be safe. The corners are usually bad too but they don't really compromise safety. If you want to maintain the "Patina" of the truck this stuff can be fixed with a minimal of disruption to that. Once that's all squared away then go ahead and make whatever purchase you decide and move forward. I've seen too many guys spend big money up front on parts and kits then get mired in body work and repairs later and eventually give up and have a project they are upside down in to get rid of. Mongo | | | | | Joined: Aug 2007 Posts: 1,859 Grumpy old guy playing with trucks, cars, and boats | | Grumpy old guy playing with trucks, cars, and boats Joined: Aug 2007 Posts: 1,859 | Mongo, I agree with you 100% on validating the project 100% prior to purchasing parts. I have also been upside down on projects and had to spend more cash (the problem with a S#it sandwich is you need a lot of bread to eat it) As for those that dont like wheel spacers, put me in that category. Adding weight to the unsprung mass is just bad for handling. I have used them, both catalog and custom made, however I still do not like wheel spacers. That is why I created the cross member that I did only after buying a complete S-10 chassis which is now underneath Frankentruck. On the other hand, I would be interested in the portion of your kit that deals with the S-10 harness swap and swing pedal arrangement if it will help me awaken Frankentruck sooner. PM me, or respond to my PM Scott
The problems we face today can not be addressed at the same level of intelligence we were at when we created them - Albert Einstein Or with the same level of $ - Me
| | | | | Joined: Nov 2008 Posts: 16 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Nov 2008 Posts: 16 | Mongo, I sent you a PM about the kit. We are thinking pretty seriously about doing this. | | |
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