The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The HiPo Shop has anyone chopped a steering column?

I am thinking about shortening the column in my 54 half ton. I am thinking about cutting it shorter has anyone tried this before on one of their trucks? If so any pointers? I have installed a 5 speed so I dont need the column shifter- I am doing this because of clearance issues with comfort not to hack up a perfectly good steering column. thanks

I haven't but thinking about it im not sure how you would be able to do this. If you cut the top off, what is the steering wheel going to connect to (spline)? And I don't believe you would be able cut it at the bottom either without having to do some major work. More will chime in.

I agree. I think the only way would be to cut some from the middle and weld back. If that was the approach, I would want to z cut it before welding so it had more joint contact area. I think the outer tube would be easy.

I'm not 100% sure if it's a direct swap into an AD truck, but the '57-'59 column is shorter. Perhaps you could swap the column tube and worm gear shaft? Another option, thoug it will increase steering effort if still manual, would be to run a smaller diameter steering wheel, perhaps one from a '58-'60 Impala.

I have thought about doing this to my '62, as I installed '90 t-bird seats in it and now feel like I'm too close to the wheel. I have looked, and it seems like Greg has the right idea. I'm pretty sure the REZ kit for 60-66 power steering requires you to shorten the column. You have to take it from the middle. I don't know where to find the instructions online, but i have seen them, maybe @ CPP's site?

i've heard of it being done on a ad truck but dont remember the specifics.i've had my 75 chevy van tilt column in my 49 shortened 5" by a guy out in missouri.he took 2" outof the tube and 3" out of the shaft.he took it apart and cut it out of the middle then put it in a jig and welded it up.he also went thru the electrics and replaced a bearing for $120.00.i was pleased....................dave

I've seen some really nasty wrecks on the race track caused by people doing a less-than-perfect job of altering a steering wheel shaft. If you choose to make a change, enlist the help of a very skilled machinist, and the best welder you can find. I'd suggest machining a sleeve to fit over your splice, and after the shaft is welded together, cross-drill the shaft and sleeve, and pin it together so something other than the weld carries some of the turning load.
Jerry

I would look around and find someone to re-spline the end.

I would sleve it. weld it,sleve it, then weld the sleve if you see no reason to take it apart again. I don't like the idea of
cross drilling the shaft. Just makes this area weaker.

Just shorten it at the bottom and install a bearing in the bottom of the tube to support the shaft. Leave the shaft long enough to file some flats and install a DD u-joint.

I shortened my 72 automatic column shift and it’s easier than you may think. As some said you cut it in the middle of the shaft somewhere. I cut a 1-1/2" section out of the shaft and a corresponding section from the shift tube and column tube. The issue is getting the steering shaft welded straight. You need to tack the shat in 4 places while it’s clamped into some type of support. I used angle iron and clamped in. Weld a spot grind it and rotate in 180 and re clamp it do this until its welded all the way round. You can straighten it afterward in a vise or on an anvil.

The tubes are a little more challenging because the cuts have to match to remain straight so your hacksaw or chop saw technique needs to be up to par, and again use the angle iron with clamps.
I recommend that you cut a little longer than your desired length and trim to the length you want to have. Measure all your parts after disassembly and record them. Then cut the parts and trim to size so the mating part has a nice straight weld point.

You want to have 45 degree bevels on the shaft ends prior to welding so it has good penetration. Don’t do a but weld. You don’t need to bevel the tubes they weld like body panels.

I used 1-1/2" masking tape as a guide on the tubes and had to trim very little afterwards. It made a supprisingly good guide

It seems like a pretty straight forward job. It looks like the column sleeve is the same diameter all the way to the dash. So the column bearing should be able to fit the cut. I am just not sure if the actual column is cast or not- thats the tricky part.
I think a sort of coupling on the main column should work- It seems easier to do that than re-thread the column. Well i guess I will let you know how it turns out haha-wish me luck

thats what people do when they install a power box or rack and want to keep the stock column, but he wants to keep both the stock column and the box but shorten it. I vote for cutting a Z into the shaft, having a professional welder (either yourself if qualified or someone else), weld it back together, than welding a sleve over the cut and so on.

where eactly is the dd u-joint?

Here's another way to accomplish the same thing.
I wasn't happy with how far the steering wheel stuck out from the dash or the height of it either - SO -
I moved the whole steering column and box 2" forward and about 1" higher off the frame, then tilted the column so as to lower the steering wheel in the cab. Of course, this raises the now too short drag link out of level, but since I wanted to lower my truck, this worked in my favor. Just had to shorten up the drag link. I used 1/4" plate on the outside of the frame to mount the steering box to. Doesn't sound like much of a change but it made a big difference inside the cab. Truck handles and steers better than new by far!!

I've been thinking of doing this by using a double d coupler to reconnect the two halves of the shaft. The coupler would be inside the tube. I was also thinking about swaging one end of the tube so the two parts would be a slip fit. That way I could remove the column and shaft without removing the steering box.

regards,
Leon

I have bought GM splines and steering shafts in different lengths from Total Performance in Wallingford CT. I don't know if they are still in business ? I do remember one of our Bolters lived near their shop.

I was planning to cut the column the heli-arc the shaft-gring that down. Use a second pass then grind it smooth. Then machine a collar to fit snug over the weld on the column. Drill a small hole through the column and sleeve to keep it from slipping

There is a company out there called ididit which handles all the products you need to convert or shorten your steering shafts. They handle products by Borgeson Engerring as well and they have a web site too. They carry Rag joints, universials, shafts of different lenghts in double DD or other modified types of shaft.
You can access them on the net at www.ididitinc.com or www. borgeson engeering.com