The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline Clutch & Brake Pedal Shaft Bushings

This is kind of lengthy, but I don't know how else to explain it.

I am going to replace the clutch and brake pedal shaft bushings in my '46. I've got the clutch pedal removed off its shaft which was easy. Now all I have to do is press out the worn bronze bushing and insert a new one. The brake pedal, however, is another story. It is sandwiched in the one piece casting that supports it and there is a 3/4 inch diameter hollow pin 3 1/4 inches long running through the casting and brake pedal. This pin is held in place so it can't slip out with a small 3/16 inch pin running perpendicular to its axis. I need to get this small pin out so I can remove the larger pin holding the brake pedal in place. Then I can replace the brake pedal bronze bushing. Can someone suggest to me how I extract this small pin?

Pictures...pictures....pictures!!! What do you think this is HOLLYWOOD??

OK, I put three pics up on my Webshots page in the "Lucille" file toward the end. Geez, I don't get any respect!!

Lucille,

I haven't done that task before, but few people would put a pin in a blind hole...there would be no way to drive it out.

Looking at your setup, this means you means you should be able to scratch around and see a corresponding hole into the bore of the large shaft that will allow you to drive the pin into and hammer the shaft out.

If you think about it logically, and that shaft is pinned to keep it from sliding out, there must be a reasonable way to drive the pin out to service the bushings. You can't pull it, so it must drive through! I think '46 was too early for the advent of allen head set screws, and if it's a tapered pin, it has to have access from the backside to drive it out.

This is how I see it, but I was only months old in that year!

Stuart

Stuart and Denny,

I took a three more photos and threw them up on Webshots. In the "Lucille" folder.

Its clear that the small pin goes thru one side of the casting and thru both sides of the hollow pivot shaft. There is no thru hole to drive the pin back out. So, my only choice is to drill the small pin out. I'm just a tad bit nervous about doing this. I'm hoping that the small pin isn't hardened. Do you think it would be? I surely don't want to break off a drill bit. Seems like a poor design, but then again they were probably thinking that the chance of anyone replacing those bronze bushing would be pretty slim. They are both worn, clutch and brake pedal, and wobble around too much.

Just as an FYI a worn bronze bushing.

Now the opposite side.

After 62 years of working that clutch you can see what happens to those bronze bushings! I've ordered new ones from Jim Carter.

If it is in a blind hole I would attempt to pull it out before I resorted to drilling it.

To pull it out, first weld a small pile on top of just the pin, TIG welding is best, but with a properly sized washer around it to protect the casting a MIG welder may work.
Once you have enough sticking up to grab a hold of weld whatever you need to to it to be able to use your slide hammer.
You don't have anything to lose by trying, as you can grind the weld off flat and drill if you have to.

If you do get it out consider drilling all the way through to avoid the problem next time.

Grigg

Lucille,

As I mentioned above, only folks into S&M would put a pin in a blind hole, no Detroit engineer would do it. The pin will undoubtedly clear the housing as it is driven into the bore of the pivot rod which will allow you to drive the pivot rod out. They made it 'just so long' as to accomplish this.

If I'm wrong, I'll drive to Taylors and paint your house, twice, the color of your choice!



Stuart

Stuart, paint my house TWICE? Now thats confidence!!

I took the time to "scratch" around on the bottom side of this casting removing a heavy layer of paint and low and behold there it was, the drive out pin hole in the casting! Yay, now I'll spray some WD40 in it and carefully start wacking away to drive that little devil out of there!! Your right about Detroit engineers. No way would they press-fit a pin in a blind hole!! How stupid would that be?

Next I'll have to come up with a clever way to drive out those bronze bushings!

Lucille,

Whew! I'll cancel my flight to Taylors ASAP.

Good luck, Stuart.

OK, I've been out in the garage wacking away at this press-fit pin with a punch and hammer. It's not budging!! GRRR!! :mad:

I'm afraid that I'll crack the casting. WD40 has been sprayed on it and still no movement of the pin after about 30 wacks. Do I dare put any heat/torch flame on the casting hoping that it might expand enough to get that pin to free itself from the casting? I'm in trouble if I break that casting!! It's not like I can go out and get another one. Anyone have thoughts on removing 62 year old press-fit pins in cast iron sucessfully? Do I resort to drilling it out? Wouldn't that be safer than risking the breakage of the cast iron part?

Slight amount of heat and a hydraulic press should do the trick. Hammering with no immediate results will do more harm than good as you smoosh the pin actually tightening it in the hole.
If you're going to pound on it you should "whack it like a baby seal" as they say. Provide plenty of support to the casting, in this case you might could use a heavy pipe that the pin fits loosely in, supported on an anvil or concrete floor.

Grigg

Lucillle,

Which pin can't you get out?..the small retaining pin or the large hollow pivot pin? The large pivot pin would have been a heavy palm press or light tap fit from Detroit, but not a heavy press fit.

Heating judiciously with a torch won't hurt a thing. I always heat the whole part then squirt it with WD-40. It makes a smokey mess but the mild thermal shock coupled with the heat seems like it drives the penetrant into the crevices and bingo...it's free.

I'm talking about the large pivot pin.

If you're still stuck on the small retaining pin, it could be a taper pin that drives out from the back side. Those pins were still SOP in '46.

I would steer clear of any hydraulic press..it might go 'bang' before you knew it...you don't get much 'feedback' through a jack handle.

Stuart

Lucile, good advice above. I have found that if its stubborn do like Denny says, just keep stepping up the bit size until its out. Youc can get roll pins at the local auto parts or even a good Ace Hardware store. Drill it out and put in one a little bigger.

I know I'm getting ahead of the plan here but when you start on the brass bushings I usually see it they will come out easy and if not I stick a hacksaw blade through the hole and cut the little bushing into then peel it out.
When you put the new ones in set them in the Freezer overnight and then the new ones will press in with thumb or palm pressure. If you try to drive them in you will most likely ruin them.

ALSO, most of the bronze/brass bushings come a bit oversize to make up for any possible wear on the shaft itself. So, odds are you will likely have to ream them out. That in itself can be tedious. I took mine to my nephew to hone out on his honing machine but he was to aggressive pushing it on the honing stones and it actualy spun in the pedal arm.....lessoned learned! Hope yours goes OK.

I think I'm going to go ahead and drill out this small pin. The last thing I want to do is crack or shatter this 62 year old casting! I'll need to get some colbalt drills and just carefully step drill that pin out.

Also folks do you think I could use one of those honing tools that you use on brake cylinders to hone the new bronze bushings to get a slide-fit over the pivot shafts? The shafts are 3/4 inch in diameter. Or am I better off reaming them? I'd have to find the right sized reamer or take the clutch and brake pedals to a machine shop.

Hey Denny, NICE tip about that dowel trick!! Ya know, its those little tips that make ones life a bit easier!!

I just got my package from Jim Carter and unfortunately the bushings had to be back ordered. Thats OK, I've got plenty to do before I can install them anyway. When I get ready to install them I'm going to try Achipmunk's trick and freeze them first before I press them in place. Hopefully that too will make it easier.

Thats good that I don't need a colbalt drill too. Guess I can just use the drills I've got. Wish me luck that I don't break one off during the surgery!!

Lucille, let me know how it turns out. I based what I said on recent work I did on my 52. I had new stones on my cyl. hone and it would take forever. I think you will be surprised at how much has to be honed out unless the shaft is worn which I doubt as thats why they used softer bushings.
I froze mine in the house, walked about 25 feet and pushed it in with my palm. It wasn't easy but it went with my hand. I guess you could take the pedal bracket in the house if Pam would let you .
Chat later. Hope all is going well. I may go to the body man later h this week. If I can remember I'll give you a call.

Moderate heat won't hurt anything. It may allow enough expansion to get the roll pin to break free it will also create capillary attraction that can draw your' penetrating oil into the bore, and help loosen it. Sometimes it just takes a few days for the penetrant to work. I prefer liquid wrench to WD40.

A little Berz-o-matic propane torch is almost foolproof, because it can't generate enough heat to damage anything. Oxy-acetylene torches must be used sparingly.

Also make sure that the casting is backed up well, with something considerably heavier than the hammer of your' choice. Wood will absorb some impact too, so if you're cushioning it with wood, it might be defeating the purpose. If there is any flex upon impact, then it is absorbing the impact, and it will not be concentrated on the roll pin.
Nice truck by the way.... good luck!

OK, now I getting a bit concerned that I won't be able to get this darn brake pedal pivot shaft out!! :mad: Here's a pic!

I've heated, hammered on and WD40'ed this pivot shaft to death! It is not budging!! I'm sooooo afraid I'm going to break that old casting!

Is there a good soaking formula...or something else I can do to free this stubborn "OLD" shaft?? I'm really low tech in all the needed hydraulic presses and such that one uses in doing this kind of work. Who, as just a regular guy with simple tools in his garage, would have all this needed equipment for a one time usage? I sound kinda cranky, don't I??

On a good note, I did drill out that little retaining pin successfully!!

BTW, To everyone here at the Stovebolt, Have a Fabulous and Very Happy Thanksgiving tomorrow!!! Just pig out!! Yum!!

Lucille,

I will repeat what I mentioned earlier, I think you will be in serious danger if you attempt to shove the pin out with a press. Any load bearing will be between those two cast iron pin bosses, and we all know how brittle cast iron is. You have absolutely no feed back with a jack handle or pump handle so you don't know how hard you're pushing.

If you can pinpoint your heating efforts on the cast bosses, they will expand. It must be done quickly so the pin doesn't grow with them. You have to get real serious with your hammer.

The picture you linked shows no evidence of blistered or blackened paint...you need to put some serious heat on this thing.

Some type of shouldered rod should be stuck inside the pin so you have an extended target for your big, heavy hammer blows.

The assembly needs to be supported so it does not move at all. Any cushioning effects will deaden the sharp blow of the hammer.

Once you break the pin loose, you have it made. It has to be done with conviction as the pin is thinking "you aren't going to move me"!

End of rant!

Stuart