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Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks  Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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| | | | Joined: Sep 2008 Posts: 125 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Sep 2008 Posts: 125 | I might like to try making my own bed wood. Anyone done this? how thick? I have seen mar-k's diagram of the grooving, but don't remember seeing the thickness. Does it matter? Could you increase, say from 7/8" to 1 " or would it raise your bed? any hints are appreciated.
Who is John Galt?
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2008 Posts: 125 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Sep 2008 Posts: 125 | Sorry I just checked Mar-k again and found the thickness, 25/32". I am not sure how to attain this thickness, or how critical it is. I guess I could ask the lumber yard to plane it by 7/32". I have a router to make the grooves. Also, are all wood beds 25/32"? My '62 is the same as a '36 or a '54 or whatever else?
Who is John Galt?
| | | | | Joined: Jan 2008 Posts: 493 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2008 Posts: 493 | | | | | | Joined: Mar 2000 Posts: 784 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2000 Posts: 784 | Check the height of the lip on the rear cross member (where the wood will sit). This is right at the tailgate.
I think you will find that it's 3/4". Any thicker than that and your wood will stick above the edge of your cross rail. It won't hurt anything but dosen't look too good.
Hope this helps
George | | | | | Joined: Jun 2005 Posts: 422 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jun 2005 Posts: 422 | Also, the wood needs to slip under the flange on the bedsides. | | | | | Joined: Nov 2007 Posts: 80 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Nov 2007 Posts: 80 | The thickness should be even a little less than 3/4"
Like AD says, it has to fit under the side angle strips without having to force it in. | | | | | Joined: Mar 2008 Posts: 3,750 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2008 Posts: 3,750 | Thanks neilroy! That's answered a few of my questions too! Jock 
1950 Chevy Advance Design 3100 in ScotlandIn the Stovebolt GalleryMore pix on Flickr. I've definately got this truck thing in my blood ... my DNA sequence has torque settings"Of all the small nations of this earth,perhaps only the ancient Greeks surpass the Scots in their contribution to mankind" Winston Churchill.
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 1,513 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 1,513 | I'll vouch for those instructions.I took them to a local place and had my choice of wood machined to size for $100.00 and the fit was perfect in my case. I went with ash: http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2789166150023244788foEoOw
1952 1300 Canadian 1/2 ton restomod You Tube | | | | | Joined: May 2004 Posts: 1,312 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: May 2004 Posts: 1,312 | I used some 3/4" dressed Oak, sanded a little to remove planer marks. Used a table saw to groove the edges, and a forstner bit to recess the off-set washers. Worked great. | | | | | Joined: Sep 2006 Posts: 3,596 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2006 Posts: 3,596 | I just purchased a Red Oak kit for mine grooved and milled to thickness for $302 (shiiping included) from American Classic Trucks Bedwood on Ebay. I can't touch it for that at the local yards here in Utah. I looked/called a few and they want around $7 a foot. By the time you buy the boards (raw) it is well over $400. Is it that high in the rest of the country or just a local condition out west? | | | | | Joined: Aug 2004 Posts: 196 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Aug 2004 Posts: 196 | i have a lumber mill so i used good old d. fir | | |
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