The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Got the ARP connecting rod bolts

Ok, i got the connecting rod bolts in, they are the same length and weight as the old ones, but with a slightly different pattern up top, oh and by the way, I CAN'T GET THEM ALL THE WAY IN!!! I've tried beating the head senselessly with a hammer, and they still are tight as hell. I guess it's a good thing they are tight? But, what i was wondering is if it'd be okay to put a nut on the other side and tighten it down and pull them through? Hoggyrubber, this question is especially for YOU!

NO-NO-NO-NO-NO-NO-NO-NO! Please don't try to pull the bolts into the rod with the nut- - - - - -you'll overstress the thread, or strip it, or both. ARP bolts need to be PRESSED into the rod with an arbor press or a hydraulic press, using a support fixture to prevent any distortion of the rod. That's why the machine shop where I managed the rod room always insisted on reconditioning the rods when we sold a set of ARP bolts. It's cheap insurence to do that, as the big end of the rod must be perfectly round, and the right size within 1/2 thousandth or so to establish the right rod bearing clearance. Pressing a new set of bolts in can upset both the roundness, and the bearing bore size to some extent.
Jerry

right o hot rod ,hold er nute she's gonna blow !!!!!!!!!!!!!

Ok, we made our own arbor press...Table + Vice + Two C Clamps. We got all the bolts in and got 3 pistons back on the journal so far today. Torqued them to 40 and backed off 3 times each. Once we finished with the pistons we'll throw on the oil pan. I have 2 choices, either take the head to a shop to get the valves dipped and relapped, or do it myself with a mixture of some crap called Gunk and gasoline. Decisions... decisions...

OOOH YOUR SCARIN ME!...did you plastigauge the bearing clearance on the rods after installin the the ARP bolts?
especially at the edge near the new bolts ?...I'm just fearing of distortion as Jerry stated, especially if they were as tight as you commented.
not enough clearance or an "out of round" an your bottem end will last bought 3 minutes before it spins a bearing and ya have a mess on your hands.
just a ..guy that BEEN THERE.
Tim

I recently bought a boat and am in need of a boat anchor. If things go bad, keep me in mind.

you shouldn't be waiting for any thoughts from hoggyrubber. i have never installed the arp rod bolts. as much as i hate to agree with everyone else, i always take the rods to a machine shop to have rods reconed. that along with valve jobs, installing valve seats, resurfacing the head and deck, and cyl boring and honing are jobs i am more comfortable letting the machine shop do. i know plastigage is a real hassle but it sure makes you feel better if you can't mic them. after you spent the cash on the arp bolts now is not the time to cut corners. sounds like you got them in though, i guess you could give 'er several spins and see how it feels. hr

hey tramp, no 250 should be used for a boat anchor. save that honor for a 350!

OFF TOPIC!

I tried to get a list of ARP fasteners that would fit my 235 and they sent me a thousand pages of spec sheets to fill in. Does anyone know where I can find a list of ARP parts that will fit a 1954 235?

You'll have to cross reference the bolts to the list by size/type. I looked into that myself as I had a rear main bolt that was bad. Too much hassle if you ask me. I found the correct bolts at the local Deere dealer.