The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Removing the Trans. in a 66

With the idea of checking/changing the clutch in my 66 Chevy (LWB/FS) I am in the process of removing the transmission.

Maybe as a last check I should describe the problem. I bought the truck with the knowledge that the clutch would not disengage. On the horizontal linkage, the forward adjustment is adjusted at it's max. Is there any adjustment on the rear of that horizontal linkage? If not, then I concur that the clutch will need to be replaced. Please confirm or deny if you can.

Back to removing the trans. I removed the speedo cable, and removed the U bolts on the forward U joint. The driveshaft is in two sections from the trans. to the pumpkin. Do I have to remove the rear crossbar attachment of the driveshaft in order to get the trans. out? Here's a pic:
[img]http://members.truevine.net/[email protected]/66chevy/DSC01832.JPG[/img]
I know I'll have to eventually remove the forward crossmember under the trans. That's not the one I'm asking about. Although I've removed the two U bolts at the U joint, I've not yet removed the inner spring clips. Is this the thing that's keeping me from removing the driveshaft from the trans? Here's a pic of that end too: [img]http://members.truevine.net/[email protected]/66chevy/DSC01831.JPG[/img]

Thanks in advance for any help. Oh, BTW, it has a 292 w/4spd. on the floor.

Rance (beginning to turn some of the big bolts in my new truck)

It's possible that the clutch disk is just rusted to the flywheel and that the adjustment was run all the way out in a attempt to get it to disengage. There should be something in the archives regarding methods to unstick the clutch disk. Can you look to see if the pressure plate is actually moving away from the clutch disk?

I don't believe you have to do anything to the aft drive shaft to remove the transmission, but someone will correct me if I am wrong.

There's only one adjustment on the clutch.

To remove the tranny unbolt the rear u-joint and the carrier bearing. Then the driveshaft can slide back. This is a good time to replace the u-joints, carrier bearing and tranny seals as needed.

Baldy,

I searched the archives and found nothing. But that does sound like its worth looking into BEFORE I remove the trans. I'm assuming there's an access panel at the bottom of the bell housing that I can look up through to see if it's trying to disengage.

Fred, What's a carrier bearing?

If anyone can point me to the topic of unsticking a clutch, then please do. Thanks.

Rance

One way to unstick the clutch disk is to drive the truck up a steep hill in second (third with a granny fourspeed)with the clutch pedal depressed if the truck is roadworthy. Naturally you have to get it rolling with the starter, so start it up in neutral, warm it up, kill it, put it in gear and start it.

The carrier bearing is between the two drive shafts.

Baldy

Remove the cover under the flywheel. Have someone work the clutch while you watch from underneith. The pressure plate should move away from the disc. If you think the disk is stuck to the fly wheel prop the pedal down with a board or something & put the trans. in high gear. rock the truck back & forth. You will feel if it comes loose.If you take one bolt holding the carrier brg. out & loosen the other one you can move the driveshaft back enough to move it out of the way. You do not need to remove any crossmembers. After you get the trany out you can remove 2 clutch bolts at a time turning the engine enough to expose the next 2.

Well, I'm makin progress. At least I've removed more bolts.

Baldy, The two bolts holding the carrier bearing in had ALL KINDS of road vomit on them. It took a lot of doing to get the cotter pins out and the bolts removed, but they're out. With that, I was able to finish removing the fwd driveshaft.

I then proceeded to get up in the cab and tear into the flooring. Took the floor mat out, followed by the 1/8" foam padding (just the piece around the hump though). Under that padding (on both sides) looks to be some tar paper like what you'd put on the roof of a house. What's that for? In fact, what's all of it for, the foam and the tar paper?

Next is the gear shift knob. I'll show you a pic if need be. I'm thinking that I'll need to remove the tall stick before I can gracefully remove the trans., is this needed? At the base of the shifter I can see what looks like a huge (3" maybe) hex nut. On both sides, it looks like there are set screws. I'm thinking that I need to loosen the set screws then maybe the hex nut screws off with the shifter coming loose. Is this how it comes off?

Then alls I'll have left is the clutch linkage. Anything you all want to warn me about this task before I proceed? Bender, if I don't remove the crossmember, then I'm guessing that I remove the bolts holding the trans. to the bell, then remove the bell separately, then I proceed to work on the clutch.

You know how ice cream gets when it sits in the freezer for a loooooong time. Well, my transmission looks kinda the same way. It has that 'protective coating' on it. I can hardly see what's bolts and what's dog turds.

Thanks for all your continued help guys. Also, is this is too booring, should I take this elsewhere? Thanks.

Rance

Fastest way to unstick a clutch is to drive it with the pedal depressed and tap the brake a couple of times will usually do the trick

Bender, Jimmy,

You guys have me about convinced that I need to reattach the driveshaft to see if I can un-stick the clutch. If weather's too bad for hanggliding (my other hobby) then I'm gonna try that tomorrow. Thanks folks.

Rance

Well, I reinstalled the driveshaft to try and un-stick the clutch.

First I put it in 3rd and pushed it fwd & backwards with the clutch in, no luck. However, this made the engine turn which tells me that in fact the clutch is definitely stuck, not just way out of adjustment.

Second, I put it in reverse (the only direction that was clear) and started it. Things happen quick when you don't have much room. I gunned it a couple of times but was unable to unstick it. Actually I forgot to press the clutch pedal in so that was a wash.

Now with some real-estate in front of me, I did the same thing in first gear, but this time, with the clutch pedal pressed in. Gunned a couple of times, still no luck.

With all that, I backed it up to get as long a run as possible and just drove it back in the garage. Kinda scary/exciting when you have no clutch and only a few inches on the right side.

Well, it's back to removing the driveshaft and proceeding on to the trans. and then the clutch. Unanswered questions:

1) How do I remove the tall gear shift, or do I even need to? (See earlier note)

2) Can I get away with removing the clutch linkage at the forward end of the horizontal linkage?

3) After I have the stick and the clutch linkage removed, I'm thinking that I'll unbolt the trans. from the bell housing, then unbolt the bell housing from the engine, then unbolt the clutch from the flywheel. Is this the right order?

Thank you all for your help.

Rance

PS: Even in the situation as it was, I had fun "Driving my truck" today for the first time.

Rance,

About 20+ years ago I was looking to buy a '71 Toyota land cruiser with a stuck clutch. I called a mechanic and to ask about getting the clutch replaced. He told me to try this first:

1. Put it in neutral.
2. Put your foot firmly on the brake.
3. Depress the clutch
4. Turn the key to crank over the starter.

He said the turning of the flywheel by the starter while holding the brake with the clutch in may brake loose the clutch.

I decided to buy the truck as is. After paying for it and getting the signed title, the seller asked if I was going to have it towed. I said "maybe". I then went out to his driveway and hopped in and tried the above procedure. As soon as I cranked the starter there was a loud "bang" as the clutch broke loose. I warmed it up for about 30 seconds, put it in reverse and backed out of his driveway and drive it home.

I'll never forget jaw dropping look on his face as I drove away in it!

I drove it for 3 years before selling it and never did replace the clutch.

No guaratee that it will work for you, but it is worth a try.

Steve

assuming yer gonna take it out Rance, best to remove the trans cover w/ shifter - drain the trans oil to minimize the mess
2] yes on the clutch linkage, but taking everything apart, you may as well take the linkage apart and clean and lube it properly
3]yes, that's the right order - you'll need to support the back of the engine well
the U-joint should come apart w/ a little persuasion, maybe when the trans is loosened fron the bellhouse, but if it's all too tight you may have to loosen the shaft from the back mount

be prepared to replace the throw-out and clutch disk while it's apart if you plan on keeping the truck, so you don't hafta repeat the drill again anytime soon

Bill

ndnchf,

That's another great idea, I'll try it tonight. However, I'll bet you meant put it in granny low rather than neutral.

Rance

Ref.: unstick a clutch, stuck clutch

Rance,

I had the clutch stick on my tractor. It is a 26 Hp. Diesel with a loader on it. I freed the clutch by removing the access plate and spraying it with WD40 while it was running in neutral. Then I drove the bucket into a stump with the clutch depressed. It popped loose quickly. I know that it defies logic to "lubricate the clutch" but it worked. (I got that solution from one of the tractor forums out here in cyber space)

Rance,

Yes, now that I thnk of it, I was mistaken. Put it in gear, not neutral. That way the application of the brakes locks the drivetrain and clutch and the starter spins the flywheel to break it free.

It's been about 23 years since I did this, my memory must be slippin' a little.

Steve

If you want some help, I can probably come over tomorrow and give you a hand. Give me a call.

Remove the bolts holding the trans. to the bell housing. 2 of them come out from inside the bell housing. If you have a big cone shaped coller on the gearshift that screws off you must have a borg-warner trans. Very unusual. Screw the collar off & remove the pin on the side being careful it does,t fall into the trans. If it has the GM trans. press the collar down with pliers & turn it 1/8 turn counterclockwise. Than youcan remove the trans. Remove the clutch as previously described. You do not have to remove the bell housing.

I don't know about the '66 but in the older ones, shot diaphram springs in the pressure plate assembly will result in the "my clutch won't disengage" syndrome.. so will a big mouse nest.

I'd try the "put it in gear, hold the brake, and crank the starter" method.. but i'd disconnect the coil wire first to keep it from starting, and only lay on the starter for 5 second bursts, to keep from burning up the starter motor.

Well, The latest attempt was not successful. However, the battery was not fully charged so I may try it again later after a charge.

Rance

HOOOOOOOOOOOORAYYYYYYYYYYY!!!!

I've got the clutch unstuck!! Yeah, I'm excited. I ended up pulling the bellhousing bottom cover off and while pushing the clutch in, I tapped the clutch plate with a wooden block. I was amazed how light a tap it took, given the other major (I thought) jolting I had put it through. Thanks ALL for your help. And I'll keep you posted on my progress.

Rance

Hey Rance, thats great news!

How does the clutch feel? Does it look like it will be usuable as is?

Maybe I'll see you at the dump tomorrow afternoon. Got to take a load of brush to the dump with my '40.

Steve

Steve,

The clutch feels great. Keeping in mind that the linkage had been adjusted (by the PO) to it's max position, I'd say I have plenty of meat left on it. I might use it as is for a while. Kind of a see as I go. Gonna try to get it running again tonight after replacing the fuel filter.

Rance