The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop toe boards& floor panels

This is where I am at in my tear down

http://s320.photobucket.com/albums/nn343/brsdb3381/inside%20cab/

I am looking at a 1/2 of the cab, toe board are rusty to missing the drivers floor pan missing about 2-3" behind front support, passenger side buckled and pushed in at rear door post about 1-1 1/2". rear panel is solid past the mangled area behind rear door post
http://www.brotherstrucks.com/prodinfo.asp?number=CFW5559

http://www.brotherstrucks.com/prodinfo.asp?number=CFP590B

Due to lack of cut-up-able trucks http://www.brotherstrucks.com/prodinfo.asp?number=CRC59SM
to repair R/R accident damage
My thoughts are brace the Heck out of it and start toe,floor, rear panel useing each part to help support the next.
I am ready to start ordering parts...the toe & rear can be on frame but how do I do the floor??? On or off frame, on the firewall or rear of the cab or is there something I am missing?

thanks Brad

I did all of my panel replacements with the cab mounted to the frame. It's the closest thing you have to a fixture.

Czechman
I can see the front & rear but the one that bolts to the frame??

Still Confused
Brad

For the floor boards I ordered the floorboards that are made with HALF the toeboard....in one piece. The body man is working on it now. I'm not sure about pickups but on my 52 panel the front body mounts are welded to the bottom of the body right under the floorboard. I had to order two new ones and when we set the body back down on the chassis for final fit and tweaking I'll get all the others bolted in place, measure twice and then weld them to the bottom of the floorboard after snuging the new mounts to the chassis. Hope this helps you in some way.

Replacing the front body mounts requires paying attention to a couple things. If you replace the floorboards be sure your floorboards are level so there is an even 1/4-inch gap between the mount and frame. THIS is what you want to avoid.

I would suggest getting your frame up on jackstands and shimming under the stands until the frame is level left-to-right. Then when you install your floorboards be sure they are level and you are good.

Also, temporarily fasten everything with #8 sheetmetal screws. It's a lot easier to unscrew something than it is to unweld something.

To avoid removing too much sheetmetal I used the half floorboard patches and did one side at a time. It's not easy getting them in in halves and considering the amount of rot I had it would be a real chore wrestling a one-piece patch in there. If your cowls and sills are solid it might be easier.

Good luck.

Oops... Mine is a '51.

If you are going to replace that much stuff you might consider finding another cab. I recently bought a 56 cab from Jimbo over at Cleburne for $600 that needs absolutely no repair except the usual back corners. If you replace that much stuff, you might wind up with a nightmare trying to get your alighnments right let alone the cash outlay. It's real easy to weld something like that together and discover you need custom made doors to fit in the hole. There are a couple of guys in Weatherford also that cut a lot of mid 50's trucks.