The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Installing Pressure Plate Assy.

I am getting ready to install the pressure plate assembly back on a 235.

Chevy manual says to be sure to line un marks on the outer shell of the pressure plate assembly with the same mark on the flywheel. I am NOT asking about mark on the shell with the mark on the pressure plate.

Can someone tell me where the mark is on the pressure plate shell? I found the mark on the flywheel. I do not know if the pressure plate assembly is stock or a replacement. It looks to be in quite good condition with very little rust on the outer shell. Pressure plate shows very little wear. Clutch disk still has some very faint identification marks on the surface.

Thanks,

Bob

Bob,

The original original pressure and original flywheel might have had alignment marks (probably for balancing purposes). I have never seen an alignment mark on a replacement unit. I just bolt 'em on.

Tim

Yup what Tim said.
Just use a clutch plate alighnment tool to save ya lottsa headaches...lol

Bob,

I did on mine, when I was reading through workshop manal the were instructions to align a ball, but never found one. I used alignment tool and bolted up and runs fine

Ganesh

Like may restortaion projects we do things that we have never done before.

Here is my situation. Stock,I am told, 235 with flywheel installed. Stock 3 speed. Stock pressure plate assembly. All are out of truck frame.

Do I first put the clutch [censored] up against the flywheel using the clutch allignment tool?

Then do I install pressure plate assembly over clutch and have clutch alignment tool protude throug the fingers of the clutch.

Then, do I remove the alignment tool and put the transmission up to the bell housing and rotate the transmission shaft to ingage the cluth disk with the front transmission splined shaft?

Finally, tighten all hardware to specification.

Make sure to center up the alignment tool in the pressure plate assembly before you tighten it. Finger tighten the pressure plate bolts until it just holds the disk but the disk can still move. Then center it in the fingers and tighten. I just eyeball it.

Neil

JD,
Just one thing to check while ya in there, for a couple a bucks make sure to replace the the pilot bearing in the end of the crankshaft...just onna them things that is easily ovelooked but then to go bad shortly after ya put it all together and have to do it all over again.
If there is any slop in the clutch alighnment tool when inserted in the pilot bearing put a new one in
Just mentioned it as i saw in your post no mention of it.
Tim

Tim: Thanks for suggestion on pilot bearing. I will ck it tomorrow.

Now for more questions. Here is what I have:

Stock 235 and 3 speed column shift. Engine is out of truck. Bell housing mounted to engine. Engine is supported on an engine lift crane.

1. Do I first position both the pressure plate assembly AND the clutch disk against the flywheel and get a couple of bolts started to hold in place?

2. If yes to no. 1,do I start the cap screws at 5 and 7 o'clock

3. Do I then install the clutch disk alignment tool?

4. Can I use the starter motor to turn the flywheel so I can install the rest of the cap screws for the pressure plate assembly?

5. Should I have removed the bell housing at the block?

6. In short, what are the step by step sequences to reinstall the pressure plate assemby, clutch disk and finally the transmission?

Bob
Thanks,

Bob

2. If I keep the bolts loose enough is there enough room to t

Bob,

I think if you asked five different people how to do this you would get that many different answers. I would leave the engine on the hook, but would let it rest on some large blocks, high enough that you can see and reach the bolts on the pressure plate.

Your alignment tool is probably a plastic deal. You can stick that through the bellhousing, stabbing the pressure plate AND the disc in one shot. Stick the snout in the pilot bearing and let the tool support everything. The pressure plate will just dangle, but that's fine until you need to shove it up and start some bolts. The bolts are arranged in groups of two (I think) so the pressure plate will have to match those spacings.

Line up the pressure plate and stick two bolts in it, loosely. I don't know if I would use the starter to turn the flywheel just yet. I would use a large screwdriver in the starter hole jammed against the ring gear. It should turn easily and allow you to install the remaining pressure plate bolts (spark plugs out).

This is where I would take a different path than most. I would smear some never seize on the transmission input shaft, pull the temporary alignment tool and stab the real tranny into the assembly. If you are going to install the engine and transmission as a unit, put the clutch arm and throwout bearing on before you stab the tranny unless you plan on pulling the transmission and doing this later.

Now you can rotate the flywheel and fully tighten the pressure plate bolts. Install the transmission bolts and you are finished.

Is your truck disassembled so that you can install the engine with the transmission attached?

Make sure your flywheel is tight on the crank and if you have lock tabs, they should be hammered over. If no lock tabs then a bit of blue Loctite on a clean bolt and clean hole will do.

This is a mini-novel and might not be how everyone does it, but it's how I would do it...I think! Good luck.

Stuart

Stuart: Thanks again. I really like how you lay things out. Very understandable for us bolt braking wrench benders.

I did not have the fly wheel off the engine but will ck the lock taps before I install pressure plate, etc.

All sheet metal is off truck frame, front and rear. Cab is on frame. I hope to set motor and trans in as a unit then begin to attack the wiring we previously communicated about.

Once I get the engine and trans set in and bolted in place, I need to swap parking places between the truck and Vet to figure out it's problems. I can pull the truck with the tractor to the upper garage and coast the Vet down to the shop.

I also gain a lot of 'points' with the War Council since she can see progress with the engine in the frame and the floor cleaned for first time in 6 years.

Thanks again.

Bob

Progress report:

I checked in id of the pilot bearing at 3 different positions. Max difference is .0002in. From .0591 to .0593.

Pressure plate and clutch disk are installed. Disk centered in fingers (eye ball centered). Transmission 'speared'!

Two questions I could not find answeres to in either the Shop or Factory Assembly manuals.

1. What is the torq spec for the 6 cap screws used to attach the pressure plate assembly to the flywheel.

2. What is the torq spec for the 4 cap screws attaching the transmission to the bell housing? The Shop Manual indicates 70-75 Ft Lb for the 5 speed trans but nothing for the 3 speed. Is there a specific torq or just 'goot-n-tite'.

Thanks in advance to all for input.

Regards,

Bob