The Stovebolt.com Forums Home | Tech Tips | Gallery | FAQ | Events | Features | Search
Help is a click away!

VEHICLE
INFORMATION
KITS


at the

GM Heritage Center
All the details are here.

Searching the Site - a click away
click here to search
New here ??? Where to start?
Click on image for the lowdown. Where do I go around here?
====
Who's Online Now
3 members (BC59, Brian Moore, rfs56trk), 161 guests, and 0 robots.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Forum Statistics
Forums66
Topics128,080
Posts1,056,060
Members48,433
Most Online14,466
Apr 26th, 2026
Step-by-step instructions for pictures in the forums
Brad Allen's photos

AD Chevy Trucks

Pictures galore
Over 6,000 pictures

Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips.

Check them out!

Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!

Big Thanks!

THANKS!

For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for

over 30 years!

and not clogged down
with Ads!


Again, thanks!

Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
#466695 10/31/2008 5:38 AM
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 13
P
New Guy
New Guy
P Offline
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 13
i have a 1935 chev 1 1/2 ton i what to get it running

it has 40,000 miles on it
but it has not run in a while last time it was licensed was 1969 probably last time run
i have turned it over with the hand crank
i bought a new 6 volt battery
want should i do in prep to getting it started

thanks
will

patmore #466768 10/31/2008 2:10 PM
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 6,377
T
Ex Hall Monitor
Ex Hall Monitor
T Offline
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 6,377
You can do it in any order but you'll need to make sure the fuel supply is clean and un-plugged. This will probably necessitate pulling the gas tank & cleaning it, checking the lines, kitting or replacing the pump (sometimes you get lucky & don't have to do this) and kit the carb. Check the points, plugs & wires. Make sure it has enough oil & the oil doesn't have water in it (IMHO even better would be to change it first). You can temporarily delay the fuel system clean & check by using a remote fuel source such as a lawn mower gas tank to route fresh gas directly to the carb for a test start (if your carb doesn't need kitted). I'm sure there's something I've left out that someone else will add. STRONG CAUTION: Never, ever use old gas. The reason checking & cleaning the fuel system is #1 is because old gas can stick your intake valves shut after you shut the engine off. The next time you try to start it you can bend pushrods or worse. Don't ask me how I know this. frown


Save a life, adopt a senior shelter pet.
The three main causes of blindness: Cataracts, Politics, Religion.
Name your dog Naked so you can walk Naked in the park.
patmore #466772 10/31/2008 2:22 PM
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,703
S
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
S Offline
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,703
Well if were me ...
1- remove the plugs and spray each cylender with a generous amount of PB Blaster/Kroil or whatever you prefer and repeat over a week's time roatating the engine daily with the hand crank to loosen up the piston rings.
2- remove the valve cover and spray all the valve train over the above mentioned week watching to make sure all the valves are opening an closing as they should and are free as you rotate the motor.
3- after a week drain an change the oil & water/antifreeze, gap a new set of plugs and install, install a fresh set of points & condensor and set as needed.
4- remove and clean the carb especially the fuel bowl, needle an seat and jets ...put a new base gasket on and get some clean fuel in a 5 gallon can and run a temp. hose to the fuel pump ...(God only knows what shape the gas in the tank is in)
5- Hit the START button an see what happens!! and proceede from there.
This is how I would approach it ...now ya can just try an hook up the Batt. an give it a whirl an see what happens also...
Good luck an keep us posted.
Tim



1952 Chevy Shortbed

Photos in Photobucket

If It Aint Broke Fix It Till It Is!
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 637
C
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
C Offline
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 637
Tiny is exactly right about old gas. The valves will stick when you shut it off and next attempt to start it will bend push rods, etc. Same as Tiny, don't ask how I know!

Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 2,987
R
'Bolter
'Bolter
R Offline
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 2,987
Dittos to what Tiny and Chevman said regarding the old gas. Been there and done that, too. I did get lucky--my valves stuck open, and so didn't bend any push rods, but it sure ran like hell till we got things cleaned up again.


Rich
1947 Loadmaster
1947 Chev. Loadmaster
1959 Chev. Viking 40

Life is short--eat dessert first!
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 493
N
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
N Offline
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 493
I also like to unhook the coil wire and turn one over several time over a 3 hour period without fire. I was told that it would make sure the oil was pumping where it could get to. The delay in between is suppose to give the oil a chance to soften any rust it came in contact with before you fire it up. Then run it a few minutes check for leaks and change the oil. I never questioned the logic and it doesn't look like it could hurt. Everything else mentioned above is dead on. I would order the rebuild for the carb now.


Moderated by  Gdads51 

Link Copied to Clipboard
Home | FAQ | Gallery | Tech Tips | Events | Features | Search | Hoo-Ya Shop
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 8.0.0