Click on image for the lowdown. 
====
| | |
7 members (GMCJammer51, walter74, JW51, 3B, J Lucas, Joe H, 1 invisible),
85
guests, and
3
robots. | | Key: Admin,
Global Mod,
Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,080 Posts1,055,952 Members48,430 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
| | THANKS!
For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Jan 2007 Posts: 199 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2007 Posts: 199 | My 59 1/2 ton had a steering wheel just sitting on the mast when I got it. I have a spring (about one and half inch long) that fits over the center cloumn that I think goes under the steering wheel and on top of the steering column mast, although I don't see what it does unless it is to hold the bearing in? Is there any sort of spring on the Horn button side of the steering wheel? Seems to me that the new horn button and contact assembly should get some "spring" in the assembly.
My new wheel has the new horn contact button installed as well as the horn contact plate that the new horn button clips onto, but the whole thing does not really have any "spring" to it. Am I missing a part here. The vendor catalogs do not show anything beyond these parts. | | | | | Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 | The spring goes under the steering wheel, between the whell and the mast jacket bearing. it doesn't have anything to do with the horn, as the horn contact itself is spring loaded. Here's a page from the '55 manual showing where the spring should sit. Actually, it's funy this came up, got me thinking, so i pulled the wheel off mine just to look. Sure enough, I forgot to put that spring back in!  Now I just need to remember hware i put it!
Bill Burmeister | | | | | Joined: Jan 2007 Posts: 199 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2007 Posts: 199 | Thanks Bill. Yep, sure makes sense now, but I still do not see how this new horn push and contact plate are "spring loaded" as the reference in the manual says. I guess the thin cheap metal contact plate is supposed to flex against the center nut and cause the contact to be made. I know it is not working, so I must have somethin wrong. The horn works fine when I touch it off with a jumper between the center and contact. I will keep fooling around with it and figure out what the hangup is. Glad I reminded you to find that spring! | | | | | Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 12,029 Cruising in the Passing Lane | | Cruising in the Passing Lane Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 12,029 | Ras - the horn plate with the serrated edge does flex marginally when the button is pushed, just enough to make the 'brush' contact short things to make the connection, and that's the only "springiness" ... only very slight movement is needed
Bill | | | | | Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 |
Bill Burmeister | | | | | Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 12,029 Cruising in the Passing Lane | | Cruising in the Passing Lane Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 12,029 | not long enuff for 57-59, might work for the 55-6 different column tho'  Bill | | | | | Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 | Nope, won't work, just tried it  Back to the drawing board! Actually, I think I can find a suitable replacememnt at the local TSC.
Bill Burmeister | | | | | Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 12,029 Cruising in the Passing Lane | | Cruising in the Passing Lane Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 12,029 | if I remember right it's 3 or 4 complete wraps and even diameter all the way with both ends being "doubled" to close a complete circle on the end, and about 1.5-2" long UNcompressed
Bill | | | | | Joined: Jan 2007 Posts: 199 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2007 Posts: 199 | Bill is right on with his description of the upper mast spring. It hs more wraps and no taper and is doubled at both ends. Okay I figured out that the contact plate I have is defective as the bottom tang is bent badly causing the plate to sit tight instead of allowing a little movement. More China stuff I bet. The old one in the parts box was ugly and filthy, but of course after some tweakin, it works! Thanks Ralph | | | | | Joined: Jan 2007 Posts: 199 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2007 Posts: 199 | Bill, for reference the spring looks a lot like a much bigger version of a brake shoe hold down spring. Ralph | | | | | Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 2,832 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 2,832 | The spring holds the inner race, the cone shaped thingy, down into the upper steering shaft bearing. Too little tension might let the cone creep up which would let the shaft and steering wheel wiggle and too much might over pre-load the bearing. Probably best to use one with near the right length and tension.
Evan
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2006 Posts: 1,703 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2006 Posts: 1,703 | Rasman, Im assuming you have an aftermarket wheel like a grant or something ...there should be the horn plate and you slide that spring under the horn cap and push down and the cap will snap onto the horn plate and the spring raises the horn cap & plate so there is no contact to ground...then TOOT away! Tim | | |
| |