The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area General Truck Talk Choke cable peril...

Now that it is getting colder, and I still want to be able to fiddle with the truck to start getting it ready for the road, I am trying to remove the rusted up choke cable. The rod part of the cable is completely rusted to the housing, and it has been soaked for a 1/2 year multiple times by pb blaster and still no luck. I am beginning to think that it would be easier to remove the cable, but the nut that holds it on is rusted up too. I will probably get another cable once I get it off anyway, so I'm wondering if it would be possible to either take the knob off or cut it off with a hacksaw, and then grind the chrome bezel(it is torn up anyway)off to remove the cable, and then go to Napa and get another cable. What do you think?

Also, my dash is not in the best of shape around the choke cable, so I can't really put force on the bezel/nut to loosen it up either. The above method to remove the cable is the only solution that I can see.

I'd put the saw to it. You won't really need a choke cable until you're driving her regularly. And that $15 to buy a new knob and cable wouldn't even buy half a tank of gas.
You will probably want to take a lot of photos so you'll remember how to reroute and attach everything later on.
Bluedawg

Thanks. That's what I wanted to hear. Even if I got it off in one piece I doubt that it would free up. Anyone know if one that looks close to original are at available at Napa or O'Reilly's? The only thing I could find are lawn mower choke cables and I don't know if one of those would have a big enough bezel/nut to attach it.

You should be able to find a universal cable at any parts store, also at most farm stores, too (like TSC). I'm not sure how the knob come off on the '54s, I know that some have a set screw that goes in from the bottom. As far as removing the cable, don't cut it! There is a nut (should be 9/16" hex) on the backside under the dash. You will have to remove it from the carb and feed it back through the firewall, then take off the nut, and the cable should slide right out, housing and all.

You may have to cut the housing just behind the nut so you can get a socket on it. Hit the nut a few times with the pb blaster. If it is real rusted up you can cut the housing flush with the back of the nut then saw across the face of the nut and it will fall in half. A dremmel tool would help.

Neil

Before you destroy the cable, you might try to remove the assembly and slap it on the pavement/driveway like a whip. This will break the rust and allow the cable to move, worked for me. What have you got to lose?

I would do that, but unfortunately, as stated above, everything is pretty rusted up, and after tapping it and soaking it for half a year(since March), it still hasn't loosened up. And my dash is in poor condition around it, so much so that if I put any major force on the nut to loosen it, if something should slip it could pull the whole choke cable assembly, knob, housing and all, out of the dash and I would be left with a gaping hole. It needs welded up. Longbox55, I have tried what you said, for about an hour today, and on other days as well, to no avail. The only thing I did was manage to make the assembly spin in the dash, but nothing actually loosened up. The easiest and most reasonable thing I can see to do is to cut the bezel/rod flush to the dash and then remove the other end, and then use another choke cable assembly. The nut and bezel are rusted badly together, due to water seeping in through a leaking windshield seal, and I don't want to tear up the dash. I'm not concerned about the choke cable, it isn't in very good condition anyway.

The universal cables that the parts stores have are junk. It is better to go to one of the specialty suppliers.

Cut the shaft off flush with the dash, and use a 1/2" drill bit to cut away the center of the bezel. Hold the cable housing with vise grips to keep it from spinning. When it gets through far enough, you can pull the remainder of the cable housing out from the back side.
Jerry

That's why I mentioned TSC. They have a really nice choke cable in with their tractor restoration parts, slides real nice and has a coated outer casing so it won't rust. And it's not too price either, something like about $6.

jdl,

I think that the 1954 dash holes might be a little big for some of the universal chokes and throttle assemblies. I have had to use a large washer on both sides of the dash in order to tighten the housing to the dash.

Tim

What HoTRod Said.

I'll see about getting a choke cable that will fit the dash, and then I will try what Hotrod Lincoln said.

If you get stuck trying to get a cable, let me know. I have one that I pulled out of my '58 because it wasn't the original "C" style- it is an aftermarket style with "Choke" printed on the knob. I stumbled on it in my shop just yesterday, wondering why I haven't thrown it away.

Shoot me a PM if you have an interest.

Bill

Tim,

What I have done in the past is to grab the metal neck of the cable (just behind the nut holding the cable to the dashboard - but not on the threads) and then using a wrench to work the nut back and forth. Eventually, it will come loose for you. You said that you have been soaking it with PB blaster for a long time. Be patient.

Once the cable is out - you can try to hit the cable on the concrete to loosen it up. Just as long as it is not wet with lubricants.

I will then pull the cable out of the housing, clean up the cable, and blow it and the housing out with air. You don't want to use lubricants that will get the rust sticky. If anything, use dry graphite. The cable will go back in the housing. This works for me.

I hope this helps. And you get the cable off.

Best of luck