The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Big Bolts Wheel Bearing , Overbearing price, No bearing

This concerns front wheel bearings on a 2 ton chevy.
After checking with flaps and 3 other bearing dist. including Berry Bearing the only thing that was found was the race for the front inner bearing at $140 Ouch !
These places don't even come up with a listing for the bearing which is a A11484 Hyatt number.
I was wondering if anyone had found front bearings without spending a fortune for them. I see that Carter has the front inner for $98 each. Wonder where he found them?

It's just that by the time I'm done with the brakes,and get this thing back on its wheels I'll have more into it than it cost when it was new, and I haven't got to the rest of truck yet !
Dan

we all will likely have more than new prices in our trucks. My 38 1.5 ton was about 800.00 new base price. I bought it for 500. back in the eightys and put about 700 more into it at that time.
i just purchased about 1700.00 worth of parts and did not get all the things i would like to have not to mention tires,body work and paint to go yet. you pretty much have to decide if it's worth it to YOU personally with out compareing it to original vehicle pricing or you'll go nuts.

I.ve heard it's cheaper to buy one restored than it is to restore one your self. ATHS auction in hutchinson this year certainly seemed to reflect that.

I had to replace the front outer bearing on the 38 and went with jim carters without doing much research. I tried the rock auto site but couldn't find the section for the vintage heavy duty trucks

I was dragged through a knot hole on front wheel bearings a couple years ago. They also sent me some with plastic races. I hav used them but I would not do it again. I suggest finding a junk yard and seeing what you can get. Probably not perfect but functional and a lot cheaper.

Stop it boys, you are scaring me!

Dan I went through the same thing a few weeks ago. I found some NOS through Vintage Auto Parts. Total price for all four bearings and races was $375.00.

If you want new bearings, I'd suggest Jim Carters simply because there replacements are Timkin Bearings. More than likely you'd never have to replace the wheel bearings again, but if you did at least you'd have the Timkin number.

Best of Luck, Paul.

Search the site I have seen the numbers here more than once. The big problem you are running into is that Hyatt was owned by GM and no longer exist they built bearings specifically for these trucks and any cross reference is next to impossible to find but are out there.

I got all the rear bearings for a 54/55 GMC 2-ton (2-speed rear end) at RockAuto.com . Their prices with shipping (and no tax) was about 1/2 the cost of any local supplier (most of whom were no help in looking up the part numbers - I had to find the numbers for different manufacturers).

I bought some through Jim Carter's Classic Truck Parts for mine, Price for inners with races is $93.10 each and outers with races are $61.75 each.

Ok I have been searching high and low on the sit for this information and come up empty handed but I know that this subject has come up many times.
Some one here has posted the Napa part number cross over for these hard to find Hyatt bearings but I can't find it.

A lot of odd bearings appear on Ebay and no one has a clue what their application is. I have bought some really rare ones cheap by running a search using the advance search by bearing number.

OK finally getting somewhere here is some talk about the front wheel bearings
https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=152440&fpart=1

I buy most of my bearings through Applied Industrial Technologies. The guys up here in the Tacoma store are great and have crossed a ton of numbers for me to find new bearings.

Dont screw around with bearings. I bought a set from one of the vendors and had emailed them before hand to make sure that they were a quality made bearing. I was told they were good american made parts. Stamped right on the side was 'made in china'. The bearings were sloppy in the race. Sent them right back.

That being said, I ordered from Applied and got what I expected. I spent around $400 on my COEs wheel bearings and Applied was a fraction of what the FLAPS wanted, plus they were Timken bearings.

Jeff

Wheel bearings aren't really rocket science! With a little creative machining, I'll bet some of these oddball bearings could be replaced with a similar, but slightly different dimension bearing. There's nothing particularly difficult about machining an adapter bushing to make a bearing cone center on a spindle, or to make a slightly undersize cup fit a hub.

If someone wants to work with me on the ones that are really scarce, I'll bet I can come up with a suitable substitute.
Jerry

I had tried Applied and Bearings Inc. even brought them the old bearings to see if they could size them and no go they could not cross the Hyatt number either. One of the guys at Applied did put in a lot of time and tried to set me up with bearings and a seal that would allow me to convert to oil bath on my 56 but couldn't in the end.
I would defiantly see them with the part numbers that 3Bs posted Applied is a good bearing house and could almost always find us what we needed for obsolete hydraulic pumps and motors.

HotRodDad the biggest problem with the inner bearing on my 56 6100 is inner race of the inner bearing is much wider than the bearing its self to provide a surface for the seal to ride.

A simple spacer ring, attached to the spindle with red LocTite would solve that problem. Just machine the ring to the same outside diameter as the hub or the bearing, and polish it sufficiently to avoid damaging the seal. Made from the correct meterial, it could even be hardened to a similar Brinnell number as the bearing race, although I doubt that would be necessary.
Jerry

I got mine thru Chevy's of the fortys maybe 4 or 5 years ago. Dont know if they still have em, they were us made. They were priced high but they had em, good luck.

Just machine the ring to the same outside diameter as the hub or the bearing, and polish it sufficiently to avoid damaging the seal. Made from the correct meterial, it could even be hardened to a similar Brinnell number as the bearing race, although I doubt that would be necessary.
Jerry
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That is what the plan was but it proved to be more expensive than I wanted to pay by the time I would have finished with it, the spacer bearings and seals it would have been close to a grand.

Thanks for the suggestions.
Does anyone have part numbers in Timken or another brand that is crossable to a present made bearing.
It's okay if you think I'm cheap, but the thought I run with is sometimes I think stuff is priced beyond its worth.
You'll have to pardon my view, but if I was to replace front and rear bearings on this truck the price sounds like near a thousand bucks. That's a little much I think so thats why I'm on this quest to come up with a cheaper source.
If I find the source I'll post it, plus I have a few ins to buying dealer or wholesale.
Dan

Dan I guess it got lost above here is a link to a thread here on the bolt where 3Bs has posted a hand full of the cross over bearing numbers you are looking for
https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=152440&fpart=1

i got the bearings for my 2 speed axle from northwest bearing (509)884-0592. i just took the bearings in and they measured them i think they were about $200 for bearings and seals

anyone try maguire bearing in tacoma? ask for joe.

I had a fun time chasing down the pinion bearings and seal for my rear end. The axle I have is not in the factory manuals as it was added by the finishing company, so it came down to chasing numbers thru the axle manf. and finaly taking them to a bearing house.
If you have the patience to do the legwork, it can pay off big. Dont count on most bearing places or FLAPS to do it for you, it can take a while and the avg. person at the counter just doesn't care as much as you do.