Click on image for the lowdown. 
====
| | | Forums66 Topics128,090 Posts1,056,024 Members48,432 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
| | THANKS!
For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Apr 2006 Posts: 127 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Apr 2006 Posts: 127 | I would like to replace my 216 because it's froze and I don't think I can justify rebuilding it. Will a "newer" inline bolt in? Thanks
Just because you have a few Craftsman tools, it dosen't mean your a craftsman.
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 | There is a lot of material here on this subject. I would suggest looking in the tech tips first and then doing aforum search. The short answer is yes. | | | | | Joined: Apr 2006 Posts: 127 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Apr 2006 Posts: 127 | Thanks trucker, Maybe I'm not using the search right. I'll also try Tech.
Just because you have a few Craftsman tools, it dosen't mean your a craftsman.
| | | | | Joined: Jan 2000 Posts: 2,074 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2000 Posts: 2,074 | Wahoo40, The easy motor to replace the 216, would be a 1954 235 or 261 Chevy as these were the last motor with the 216 style water pump, easy deal. Those however are not easy to fine so next good motor is the 55 to 62 235, which will require mods to the water pump. Like truckernix said, read the tech tips. Also you may want to get a catalog from Patricks antique cars in Casa Grande, AZ ,has a section on all the mods you'll need plus other neat stuff. his phone- 520 836-1117 or web site www.patricksantiquecars.comBest of luck | | | | | Joined: Apr 2006 Posts: 127 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Apr 2006 Posts: 127 | If I'm thinking right,...the rear motor mounts and bellhousing mounts are the same? I want to run an automatic trans. Would this mean changing out the rear motor mounts? Thanks for the info on Patricks.
Just because you have a few Craftsman tools, it dosen't mean your a craftsman.
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2007 Posts: 2,644 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2007 Posts: 2,644 | First it was just the engine, now it's the transmission which is going to mean a new rear end. See how addictive this stuff is?  | | | | | Joined: Oct 2003 Posts: 5,152 Cruising in the Passing Lane | | Cruising in the Passing Lane Joined: Oct 2003 Posts: 5,152 | Putting an automatic behind a 235 you have two options, first being one of the two old automatics that were offered behind it, the cast iron powerglide, or the 4-speed hydramatic. Neither compare to modern automatics very well.
The other option is an adapter that allows using a V-8 bolt pattern automatic. Going that route you've complicated the rear motor mount and will have to convert to open drive, probably meaning changing the rear axle.
The 235 and the related motors, the 261, and GMC 228, 248, 270 and 302 all have the bolt pattern and can use the adapters, but if you need an adapter you need the right one, Chevy or GMC because of crankshaft difference. And swapping to a GMC complicates the front motor mount.
Later GM inlines, the 230, 250, 292, don't need an adapter to run the modern automatics, but require new front mounts in addition to rear, and mean you are changing other things too.
And of course modern automatics fall into multiple catagories too, and which you choose may bring more complications.
Give us a better idea what you are trying to accomplish and we might be a bit more helpful...
1955 1st GMC Suburban | 1954 GMC 250 trailer puller project | 1954 GMC 250 Hydra-Matic | 1954 Chevy 3100 . 1947 Chevy COE | and more... It's true. I really don't do anything but browse the Internet looking for trouble... | | | | | Joined: Apr 2006 Posts: 127 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Apr 2006 Posts: 127 | I guess if it was easy everyone would be doing it. LOL... My plan as of now,(things have been known to change) is to run a later inline 6 with a turbo 350. Apparantly an adapter also. I will use an s10 rear with Chassis Engineering rear spring kit. I'm in the process of installing a MII front suspension from JW Rod Shop which mounts low enough to allow an inline to fit. I would like to use the stock motor mounts if possible, but I guess after going this far that wouldn't be too big a deal. Where would I find this adapter? Is there a certain cut-off year where the inline engine won't be a good swap into my 1940 chassis? Sorry for all the ???s, I like to learn a little beforehand, I hate buying stuff that won't work!
Just because you have a few Craftsman tools, it dosen't mean your a craftsman.
| | | | | Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 Riding in the Passing Lane | | Riding in the Passing Lane Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 | If you are going that rout why not use the 250-292 engine. It may already have the 350 trans or one will bolt right up to it. It has side engine mounts that will work with your Must. II front end. They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing. 1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne SuperIn the Gallery Forum | | | | | Joined: Apr 2006 Posts: 127 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Apr 2006 Posts: 127 | What years were the 250-292 engines made, and what donor vechicle would have had them? With this particular MII crossmember, the original front engine mount remains intact. With others I've seen, the first thing the instructions tell you is to cut the front crossmember up to the radiator support.
Just because you have a few Craftsman tools, it dosen't mean your a craftsman.
| | |
| |