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Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 502
G
Shop Shark
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G Offline
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In the manual it says the frt. drums on a 52 chevy 2ton are demountable.
I took off the 6 nuts holding the drum to the hub, gave it a good doush with Pb Blaster, got a bfh and can't get those drums to budge even a little.
I was wondering if anyone has demounted drums like these and what happened when you demounted them.
The thing is, I knew they wouldn't fall apart, but I can't even get a air gap between the drum and the hub flange.


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101st Screaming Eagles
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J
Wrench Fetcher
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J Offline
Joined: Jan 2007
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Glasman,
Did you adjust your front brake cylinders down? Sometimes the brake shoes have literally grooved into the drum somewhat so if the shoes are still adjusted outward, there's a lip on the drum that won't slide past the shoes. If you go to the back side of the drum, there should be an access hole into the brake cylinder where you can crank the length down to loosen the brake shoes. I had to do this on my truck.


Jon
Joined: Jun 2004
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W
Riding in the Passing Lane
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There may be some slotted screws holding them on. Why not just pull the whole hub off with the bearings. They need packing any how. You have better access to the brakes that way.


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1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne Super
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I guess I should have mentioned that the hub and drum is already off the truck cause there's no way to dismount the drum if its on the truck.
Thats because the drum is on the inboard side of the hub flange.
Dan


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101st Screaming Eagles
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W
Riding in the Passing Lane
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W Offline
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You may hace to drive out the bolts holding them together.


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Thats the thing I love about manuals sometimes. The manual tells what to do and then makes no mention of how to do it, or tells you the really simple things like to get the wheel off first jack up the vehicle.
I suppose there has been someone who has tried to remove the wheel and not jacked it up first
Back to the hub and drum assy. Hasn't anyone pulled the the hub and drum off a 1 1/2 or 2ton truck ?
After soaking for two days I gave it another try with the same result. I thought and looked at this assy all day, okay, I didn't look at it all day, but my thoughts were on it as to how I could drive or press the studs out and didn't come up with squat. If you guys have seen this assy you know what I mean. Where you need to drive or press the studs is between the two flanges of the hub assy.
I was hoping someone had removed a drum and knew what the situation was.
I'm thinking that maybe the studs were a press fit, but you'd think the manual would have at least mentioned that if they say the drum is demountable.
Dan


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M
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Glasman...I had the same problem about a month ago trying to remove the hubs from the drums on my 2-ton. I tried everything short of using explosives! My intent was to remove the hub so I could clean out the old grease. I decided to leave it together and cleaned it out. What are your intentions? If it's just to make it easier to clean, I would leave it alone. It really wasn't that bad to clean inside and out for me with everything still attached.

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H
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
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Unless you're planning to replace the drum for some reason, I can't think of why it would be necessary to remove it. If you need to machine the drum, a good automotive machine shop will have the correct adapters to use the bearing cups for centering on the brake lathe. For any other operation such as degreasing, sandblasting, etc, just protect the bearing cups and blast away, or drive the bearings out and reinstall or replace them later.
Jerry


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Ron and Jerry are right, there shouldn't be any reason to remove the drum from the hub. If the drum needs turning, the machine shop will actually prefer having the hub in place to center on the lathe. If the drum is beyond repair (which is highly unlikely) you'll probably end up having to get a used hub/drum assy. anyway, because chances are a salvage yard wouldn't take them apart either.


Keith
If it were easy they'd have grade schoolers doing it!

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