The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop Paint problem- What to do?

Painting the inside of the cab on the 66 (finally)last weekend. Gave every thing a coat of PPG Omni epoxy primer then a few hours later sprayed the Omni MAE acrylic enamel top coat. Had some problems (newbie mistakes) with gun set up etc. Ran out of paint and had some runs that needed sanding out. Left is a few days and then wet sanded everything with 400 grit to repaint. Started to repaint last night and luckily only had painted the glovebox door and one door trim panel when I noticed the finish "crinkling" so stopped.

Do I need to let the new paint dry longer before a repaint or do I need to sand it all off and start again? Would another coat of primer ( or sealer) on top of the sanded paint before repaint do it?

Sure glad I didn't paint everything again before noticing the problem.

don't put you paint on so heavy. Try applying very light coat first. Don't try to get coverage, just a light coat of paint. Then a second coat a little heavier with a third coat for coverage. Give each coat plenty of time to flash.

Try that on a door and see how it works out for you.

Frank

Are you repainting with the same acrylic enamel or something else? This sounds just like what happens when a lacquer is painted over enamel.

If not, you should talk to the people who sold you the paint. Hopefully you bought it from a brick and mortar automobile refinishing place and they can help you.

I think that unless you recoat while the paint is still tacky, you must let it dry to a point that the solvent in the new coat can't soften the old coat. Dupli-color spray can instructions say that if you recoat after the first hour you must wait 7 days. I would assume that real paints recoat time will be depend on what reducer you use. The last time I painted was 12 years ago on the 60 MGA,that due to gas I am driving alot now. It seems like the drying time was in an information sheet that I had on the acrylic enamel I used. I would wait at least a week and try a test spot.
Just a guess.

Neil

Thanks for the input. Called my paint shop today ( yes a real body shop supplier) who checked with their paint rep. and gave me a couple of options..........

1) Light scuff or sand and then 4 or 5 very light coats of paint.

2) Light scuff or sand, another coat of epoxy primer, then paint.

They seem to think option 2 is my best bet although I think I'll try it first on a small area and see if there is any reaction. They also originally told me not to worry about hardener, just mix the paint and reducer. Now they're recommending paint/reducer/hardener.

I'll try it again this weekend and hope I get better results this time.

The first option is your best.

Frank

give your first shot of paint a good week to cure up .an you should have NP's sanding an reshootin ..been there done it ...as far as tryin to shoot over too virgin paint ..that lifts and crinkles.
the reshoot within a few hrs so is true ...if not ya have to wait till it cures.
Tim

yor old paint is still to soft to repaint and i would reprime seal before you recoat

First option will work and probably result is an orange peel finish. They're probably used to dealing with body shops that have to move jobs out the door and that's why they're suggesting these fixes.

If you have time, give it a week to dry and repaint.

Thought, are you or have you thought of using paint hardner ???

Hardner gives the paint a better longer lasting shine. it also dries and sets the paint up quicker and shorter ( over night ) drying time.

You should not get orange peel in a acrylic enamel. Reduce it with the proper reducer and mist coat it with several coats of paint you shouldn't have any peel.

When you deal with eurathane you will get orange peel if not applied wet enough or reduced enough.

Neilroy has the correct solution IMHO. Once you pass a certain point in the curing process you must wait for a full cure before re-coating. It's actually a pretty common issue.

Well I went with option 1 ( 4 or 5 light coats ) and didn't get any "crinkling" this time. I did get orange peel though. Wet sanded and buffed the dash tonight and it looks good now. Hopefully will be able to get the rest wet sanded and buffed in the next few days and then on to the outside of the cab and doors.

Son wants the "rat rod" look so we'll be using black epoxy primer on the exterior. The last time I sprayed the epoxy primer it went on real nice so I hope it will this time too.

Still learning proper gun set-up and spraying technique. Devilbiss Finishline gun says 23 lbs in but it doesn't seem like enough pressure to atomize the paint.

Sounds like you didn't use the hardener. With the use of the hardener it not only gives a better shine as westratdel mentioned. It increases drying time thereby reducing the amount of dirt that will stick. It is often surface dry 15/20 min after spraying. I like to wait at least 24 hrs before taping off for 2 tone. With out the hardener I'd wait a month if you can.