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| | | Forums66 Topics128,077 Posts1,056,014 Members48,433 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: May 2008 Posts: 66 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: May 2008 Posts: 66 | I am having trouble removing the drums to re-place the shoes and cant see the adjuster to loosen the brakes the remove the drum. Any suggestions? | | | | | Joined: Nov 2001 Posts: 217 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2001 Posts: 217 | I'm no expert but, I had to rent a large puller from a rental store to pull my drums. I've also heard you can heat the drum to loosen the rust. The puller worked great for me. good luck. | | | | | Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 | You have to break the rust bond to get them to come off. Take a good hammer and smack the drum between and just outside of the stud circle. After a bit you will see rust dust spewing out from between the hub and the drum as you hit it. At some point you will probably be able to wiggle it and feel movement. Then rig up something to give some pulling tension and tap the drum on the edge outside perimeter. This is how I remove drums. If they turn then the shoes aren't holding them at this point. If you can pull the drum off a little and they hang up, the shoes could be catching a wear ridge. | | | | | Joined: Jan 2008 Posts: 4,961 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2008 Posts: 4,961 | It is usually the ridge on the drums, not rust that has to be overcome, and they have to be adjusted in to make them small enough to come off. A puller will work. Something will give unless you are planning on relining your old shoes because you might bend them. | | | | | Joined: Dec 2007 Posts: 1,403 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2007 Posts: 1,403 | This is probably a simple thing that shouldn't have to be asked, but what do you have to do to get the drums off on the rear? Do they have a dust cap that covers the nut/cotter pin/bearing as the front or is it different? I don't really want to have to jack my truck up and take off the wheel just to find out it's something I don't understand, so I figured I'd ask. | | | | | Joined: May 2008 Posts: 66 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: May 2008 Posts: 66 | i cant seem to find the adjustment for the rear thats the main problem. It has two holes on top and an inspection plate on the forward side. The truck has been driven so I dont think its rusted on there so I am leaning torwards the puller. | | | | | Joined: Jan 2008 Posts: 4,961 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2008 Posts: 4,961 | They are different than front if its a 1/2 ton. They come right off. The hub is actually part of the axle. That is what they call a semi floating axle. The wheel bearing is pressed on the axle and unless you have a rough bearing, leave all that alone. There are a few spring clips on the studs that screw off or pop off with a screw driver. Except if there is an excessive ridge from wear, you should be able to get the drum off by wiggling it off. | | | | | Joined: Mar 2007 Posts: 4,215 Moderator | | Moderator Joined: Mar 2007 Posts: 4,215 | I agree with truckernix that they are likely stuck on a wear ridge. A bit of patient wiggling with the occassional whack on the outer edge should do it. | | |
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