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Joined: May 2006
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I have a 48 1/2 ton 5 window. I spent almost 2 hours on the rear window. Cant get it in. I almost get the whole window in, then the seal pops in towards the cab. I am using a flat plastic window tool. Havent even tried the corners yet. Any tricks to make this easier?

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You have to use cord..like window sash cord or a strong fine rope that will fit in the groove of the rubber....you need enough to go all around the glass with a foot or two left over at both ends. You need 2 people.. 1 on outside 1 on inside....Outside holds in place while inside pulls rope/cord to position rubber onto flange where it sits. Continue pulling cord slowly till it is all in place...Hope this helps...Roy


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weltertm,

There is a trick. It involves wrapping a rope around the window rubber, putting the glass and rubber up to the hole, and while a helper holds and pushes the glass, you slowly pull the rope out.

This action lifts the lip of the rubber seal over the lip of the opening and presto, the whole thing slowly goes in. This is accompanied with a spray bottle full of soapy water applied liberally.

I did this once on a VW windshield and it worked great. Isn't the rubber on your window a two piece affair. The large piece that captures the window in the frame and a smaller wedge or 'lock' piece that expands the large one and locks it in the opening.

With the two piece rubber, you should be able to work it all in with plastic tools and soapy water. Then do the same with the lock piece...maybe not huh!

Stuart

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S
Grumpy old guy playing with trucks, cars, and boats
Grumpy old guy playing with trucks, cars, and boats
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I have used 1/8" nylon chord in the past on most windows, liberally spray 409 or other cleaning agent on the rubber. It will act as a lubricant. overlap the chord by 6 " or so. Then with a helper on the outside gently pushing, pull the chord back on itself around the window. The window will nearly fall in.

If you are using an h-channel with a lock, all that is needed is your fingers.

Scott


The problems we face today can not be addressed at the same level of intelligence we were at when we created them - Albert Einstein Or with the same level of $ - Me
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The A.D series use a Claytonrite rubber. You do not usually 'string' this type of rubber. nono
The correct way to fit this is to fit the rubber to the aperature and 'work' the glass into the rubber.
If you go to search.. Type in; AD rear window gasket. You will see this topic has already been covered in some detail.
Hope this helps!
Jock. thumbs_up


1950 Chevy Advance Design 3100 in Scotland
In the Stovebolt Gallery
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I've definately got this truck thing in my blood ... my DNA sequence has torque settings
"Of all the small nations of this earth,perhaps only the ancient Greeks surpass the Scots in their contribution to mankind" Winston Churchill.
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Installing the glass is easier for some than for others. I found it to be one of the biggest pains in the butt on the entire rebuild.

Soapy water didn't do it for me. Not slippery enough. I found something that worked better: waterless hand cleaner. It provided all the lubrication you'll need. Stayed put, and wiped off afterward.


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'Bolter
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Yes, the rubber goes on the cab first and then the glass is worked in to place. KY jelly is a great lubricant for the job. I had two little suction cups to help me hold the glass.


1951 GMC 1 Ton Flatbed -- It is finally on the road and what a great time I have driving it!
1951 1 Ton Completed


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The problem I had was keeping the gasket in place while trying to get the glass in. I finally duct taped the gasket to the window all the way around on both sides. Then had 2 helpers to hold while I finessed it into place.

The biggest P.I.T.A. so far on this restoration.
RB53


1953 3/4-Ton Chevy

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If it can be built ... It can be fixed.

RB53
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Boy I MUSTA BEEN LUCKY!...gettin the glass in the gasket went like BUTTER it was seatin the lock strip that was the P.I.T.A...I hope that goes better for ya than the initial install!
1 ? ...I take it your gasket is brandy spanky new correct?...I put mine on the cab and used thin strips of wood too x-brace the gasket in the hole corner to corner an let it set a few days ..and then took my heat gun to it to get it to behave and conform in the corners after it took the shape of the opening installing the glass took like 5 minutes ...I used the same trick on my corner glass..it seemed to me that getin the new gasket that wants to be straight to conform to its new curves was the NASTY ...after some finessin of the rubber itself it all went SMOOOOTH.
just a tip on how i did mine
Tim


1952 Chevy Shortbed

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Hey RB53! You got your window in! Have you managed the lock strip? If not,try and buy an Insert tool, It'll save you no end of grief!
I do this for a living,but I have to admit the first few I did in the dim and distant past were tricky to say the least!
Sometimes I'd wished I had 3 hands!
Well done!
Jock. grin


1950 Chevy Advance Design 3100 in Scotland
In the Stovebolt Gallery
More pix on Flickr.
I've definately got this truck thing in my blood ... my DNA sequence has torque settings
"Of all the small nations of this earth,perhaps only the ancient Greeks surpass the Scots in their contribution to mankind" Winston Churchill.
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,028
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Jock,

Beleive it or not I seated the lock strip with a paint can opener. It was probably not as easy as the right tool but it had the correct angle and handle. It wasn't too bad. maybe about 10 to 15 minutes and it was done.

RB53


1953 3/4-Ton Chevy

In the Stovebolt Gallery
More pix

If it can be built ... It can be fixed.

RB53
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J
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Well done! Necessity is the mother of invention! I don't think my customers would be too impressed if I turned up at a job with a can opener! grin
Regards Jock thumbs_up


1950 Chevy Advance Design 3100 in Scotland
In the Stovebolt Gallery
More pix on Flickr.
I've definately got this truck thing in my blood ... my DNA sequence has torque settings
"Of all the small nations of this earth,perhaps only the ancient Greeks surpass the Scots in their contribution to mankind" Winston Churchill.

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