The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop throw-out bearing

If I am going to replace this bearing what should I look for and what should I replace while I have my truck completely apart such as pressure plate......

resurface flywheel,new clutch and pressure plate,throw out bearing,these are normal wear and repair conditions,

bolted,
the clutch is onna them there thingies, IF YA IN THERE REPLACE IT!...NO ONE especially me likes to pull a tranny outta a on the road vehicle to replace a clutch & throw out bearing.
If ya have the motor an tranny split THIS IS THE TIME, get your flywheel surfaced if needed, pickup a new throw out bearing,clutch disk and either a new or rebuilt pressure plate.
your choice on the pressure plate.
It is just onna them items ya dont want to mess with soon after gettin on the road after all your hard work.
just my 2 pennies.
Tim

An equally good argument can be made for not replacing good parts just because they are accessable. Especially now with dollars becoming so tight. It depends on how much you drive it, how you use it, etc. It's your labor and your money.

whats the difference in pressure plates? plus they offer 2 different pressure plates 10" and 11" same with the clutch. Whats the difference? what about pilot bushings. I guess what I am saying is almost worst case senario I will need to re-place clutch-pressure plate-throw-out bearing.... and what else?

bolted54,

When it comes to a friction connection like a clutch, bigger is better...usually. Large trucks would have a larger clutch and pressure plate which would equate to more square inches of friction. A car would probably not need to move a huge load up a steep hill, so it would have a smaller setup.

For a pickup, I think a standard 10" assembly would be fine. As far as the pilot bearing, it's hard to check wear wise unless you have a test piece of the proper OD. This usually means you just replace it when you are digging into this area.

I thought you mentioned maybe jerking all this stuff out soon and installing a T-5. If this is going to be sooner than later, I would do the minimum now as Dave suggests.

If your rig has a closed drive line, accessing the clutch area is a bear to say the least. This makes a good argument to do the work while the patient is open on the operating table.

The wear items would include a clutch, pressure plate, throwout bearing, pilot bearing and probably a flywheel surface.

This would make everything new and bullet proof...it would work just like from the factory.

If your engine is old and the rear main is leaking, and if you are really going to do a T-5 swap soon, I would either ignore the howling throwout bearing, or do the very minimum to fix it. If your brand new clutch plate get soaked with oil from your old engine, you have wasted your time and money.

Stuart

I am planning on a T-5 upgrade but I didnt expect the bearing to go as quick as it did. Its went from a howl to a screech really quick. As far as the rear engine seal I am not sure yet till its opened up but it doesnt leak from the outside and the motor runs real smooth no oil pressure loss so I will take it from here when I get there-thanks

53moneypit has a valid argument. I run over the road trucks. If a clutch has to come out, we don't even look at it, we replace everything because labor is approaching $100 per hour and unscheduled maintenance is even worse. However on my playtoys..7 GMC's and 3 1956 Fords it is a totally different story. I've been driving for 50 years and how many years do I have left to drive at all. I do like I did it in the 50's If it looks good use it. Besides how many miles will I drive any one vehicle and my labor ain't worth anything anyway. If I really need to get somewhere, I drive an 08 Chev pickup.