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Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 7
J
New Guy
New Guy
J Offline
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 7
Folks,

The holes on my manifold where the heat riser/counter weight thing goes through have worn to a point where they leak bad. What can/should I do.

Much thanks,

Jim

Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 9,115
'Bolter
'Bolter
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 9,115
I haven't heard of that before. I would take it to a machine shop and see if they could put bushings in.


1951 GMC 1 Ton Flatbed -- It is finally on the road and what a great time I have driving it!
1951 1 Ton Completed


My Chevy Master 4 Door is on the Road!
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 1,464
W
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
W Offline
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 1,464
Chevs of the 40's sells an oversized heat riser shaft. Just ream the holes to fit, problem solved.

Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 5,708
A
'Bolter
'Bolter
A Offline
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 5,708
Isn't it a major task to get the counterweight off the old shaft and installed correctly on the new shaft. I actually though the weight was almost part of the original...not removable.

The plate that's inside the manifold would probably take lots of imagination to R&R too. That isn't a friendly environment in there....I sure am a pessimist, huh!

Stuart

Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 4,962
C
'Bolter
'Bolter
C Offline
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 4,962
I started driving a 50 GMC to school in 58 and been tinkering with them ever since. I think I have 7 of them now. I thought they were supposed to leak. I'm too old to worry about such things now.

Last edited by crenwelge; 05/16/2008 4:17 AM.
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 70
B
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
B Offline
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 70
mine was stuck..........then i got it loose.....engine ran the same being stuck as it does now working..........should be zero difference in performance if its loose

Joined: May 2008
Posts: 3
T
New Guy
New Guy
T Offline
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 3
In my book that sticking, spring actuated, exhaust choking, flap is a hazard and a waste of time to fiddle with. I took the advise of an old timer who worked on the old stove bolts for years. He informed me to slide in a grade #8 bolt through the manifold using flat washers, and double nut the bolt. Don't forget to use "Never seize on the threads. You could also tap and thread the shaft holes and install short bolts, this will cause even less restriction on exhaust flow. Seriously now, if you know and respect your old stove bolt motor, you are going to drive her nicely until you warm her up anyway.

Tim in Ca

[i][/i]


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