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| | | Forums66 Topics128,151 Posts1,057,004 Members48,460 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Jan 2007 Posts: 7 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Jan 2007 Posts: 7 | Folks,
The holes on my manifold where the heat riser/counter weight thing goes through have worn to a point where they leak bad. What can/should I do.
Much thanks,
Jim | | | | | Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 | I haven't heard of that before. I would take it to a machine shop and see if they could put bushings in. | | | | | Joined: Dec 2006 Posts: 1,464 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Dec 2006 Posts: 1,464 | Chevs of the 40's sells an oversized heat riser shaft. Just ream the holes to fit, problem solved. | | | | | Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 | Isn't it a major task to get the counterweight off the old shaft and installed correctly on the new shaft. I actually though the weight was almost part of the original...not removable.
The plate that's inside the manifold would probably take lots of imagination to R&R too. That isn't a friendly environment in there....I sure am a pessimist, huh!
Stuart | | | | | Joined: Jan 2008 Posts: 4,962 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2008 Posts: 4,962 | I started driving a 50 GMC to school in 58 and been tinkering with them ever since. I think I have 7 of them now. I thought they were supposed to leak. I'm too old to worry about such things now.
Last edited by crenwelge; 05/16/2008 4:17 AM.
| | | | | Joined: Feb 2008 Posts: 70 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Feb 2008 Posts: 70 | mine was stuck..........then i got it loose.....engine ran the same being stuck as it does now working..........should be zero difference in performance if its loose | | | | | Joined: May 2008 Posts: 3 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: May 2008 Posts: 3 | In my book that sticking, spring actuated, exhaust choking, flap is a hazard and a waste of time to fiddle with. I took the advise of an old timer who worked on the old stove bolts for years. He informed me to slide in a grade #8 bolt through the manifold using flat washers, and double nut the bolt. Don't forget to use "Never seize on the threads. You could also tap and thread the shaft holes and install short bolts, this will cause even less restriction on exhaust flow. Seriously now, if you know and respect your old stove bolt motor, you are going to drive her nicely until you warm her up anyway.
Tim in Ca
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