The Stovebolt.com Forums Home | Tech Tips | Gallery | FAQ | Events | Features | Search
Help is a click away!

VEHICLE
INFORMATION
KITS


at the

GM Heritage Center
All the details are here.

Searching the Site - a click away
click here to search
New here ??? Where to start?
Click on image for the lowdown. Where do I go around here?
====
Who's Online Now
6 members (rfs56trk, frogfarmer, Bill Hanlon, 50Chevy3100, Buckeye998, JoergK.), 369 guests, and 2 robots.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Forum Statistics
Forums66
Topics128,160
Posts1,057,054
Members48,463
Most Online14,466
Apr 26th, 2026
Step-by-step instructions for pictures in the forums
Brad Allen's photos

AD Chevy Trucks

Pictures galore
Over 6,000 pictures

Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips.

Check them out!

Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!

Big Thanks!

THANKS!

For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for

over 30 years!

and not clogged down
with Ads!


Again, thanks!

Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 103
L
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
L Offline
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 103
I bought an alternator conversion kit from Classic Parts and can't quite seem to figure out the instructions. I have read the tech section on this website which was more help than the instructions they supplied. I have the right alternator that fits the connections. The problem is I have a brown and red wire to connect. The directions say to connect the red to the ammeter "neg" post and the brown to the "ACC" termainal on the ignition switch. Now I have to guess the switch is where the key is but don't really know where the brown needs to go. The instructions also said to tape off the "field" and "arm" wires which I did and I removed the regulator. By the way, the motor is a 250 and already is 12 volts. I really appreciate the help guys!
Jeremy

Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 5,708
A
'Bolter
'Bolter
A Offline
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 5,708
Jeremy,

This might confuse you more. If your rig had a FIELD and ARM wire, which you taped off, it probably had a BATT wire too. You can attach the large BATT wire FROM the alternator to the BATT wire that was on the old voltage regulator. This will supply power to the system through the old ammeter, just like the generator did.

You can connect the larger wire coming from the DA plug, should be marked #2...maybe the red wire, to the big BATT lug right next to it on the alternator.

The brown wire should be marked #1 and it needs to connect to a switched voltage that is ON with the key when the rig is running. If the ACC position of the key is ON when the rig is running then it sure fits the bill.

I hope this makes it more clear.

Stuart

Joined: May 2006
Posts: 103
L
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
L Offline
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 103
The thing that's throwing me off is the wires in the kit already have rings crimped on the end so I thought that I'd have to track the "batt" wire to where it's connected under the dash, but I could just cut and connect them close to where the regulator was. But the smaller brown wire needs to go to the key switch and connect there then. Thanks.

Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 5,708
A
'Bolter
'Bolter
A Offline
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 5,708
lazyj,

Yes......I guess. Your alternator has three wires coming from it. A very large charge wire from the big BATT lug. This is the one that goes to the old generator BATT wire OR under the dash to the negative side of the ammeter. The smaller red wire doesn't have to go that far. It can get stuck on that big BATT lug on the alternator.

The brown wire doesn't HAVE to go to the ignition switch, but it can. If you install a diode in that line you can stick it on the key side of the coil (+) and save yourself some crawling under the dash.

Stuart


Joined: May 2006
Posts: 103
L
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
L Offline
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 103
stupid question: what's a diode and would it work if the coil is built into the distributor?

Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 5,708
A
'Bolter
'Bolter
A Offline
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 5,708
Jeremy,

I don't think that's a stupid question. Think of the diode as a one way valve for electricity.

Your rig has a HEI...will this work? I don't really know for sure, but I don't know why not. It's a common terminal switched on with the key, the same as a conventional ignition.

You can buy little pigtails with a diode already encased that plug between the DA terminal and #1 brown wire. This would only be needed when you tap into an ignition source. It prevents run-on when you turn the key OFF.

Stuart


Moderated by  Jon G, Rusty Rod 

Link Copied to Clipboard
Home | FAQ | Gallery | Tech Tips | Events | Features | Search | Hoo-Ya Shop
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 8.0.0