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| | | | Joined: May 2006 Posts: 103 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: May 2006 Posts: 103 | I bought an alternator conversion kit from Classic Parts and can't quite seem to figure out the instructions. I have read the tech section on this website which was more help than the instructions they supplied. I have the right alternator that fits the connections. The problem is I have a brown and red wire to connect. The directions say to connect the red to the ammeter "neg" post and the brown to the "ACC" termainal on the ignition switch. Now I have to guess the switch is where the key is but don't really know where the brown needs to go. The instructions also said to tape off the "field" and "arm" wires which I did and I removed the regulator. By the way, the motor is a 250 and already is 12 volts. I really appreciate the help guys!
Jeremy | | | | | Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 | Jeremy,
This might confuse you more. If your rig had a FIELD and ARM wire, which you taped off, it probably had a BATT wire too. You can attach the large BATT wire FROM the alternator to the BATT wire that was on the old voltage regulator. This will supply power to the system through the old ammeter, just like the generator did.
You can connect the larger wire coming from the DA plug, should be marked #2...maybe the red wire, to the big BATT lug right next to it on the alternator.
The brown wire should be marked #1 and it needs to connect to a switched voltage that is ON with the key when the rig is running. If the ACC position of the key is ON when the rig is running then it sure fits the bill.
I hope this makes it more clear.
Stuart | | | | | Joined: May 2006 Posts: 103 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: May 2006 Posts: 103 | The thing that's throwing me off is the wires in the kit already have rings crimped on the end so I thought that I'd have to track the "batt" wire to where it's connected under the dash, but I could just cut and connect them close to where the regulator was. But the smaller brown wire needs to go to the key switch and connect there then. Thanks. | | | | | Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 | lazyj,
Yes......I guess. Your alternator has three wires coming from it. A very large charge wire from the big BATT lug. This is the one that goes to the old generator BATT wire OR under the dash to the negative side of the ammeter. The smaller red wire doesn't have to go that far. It can get stuck on that big BATT lug on the alternator.
The brown wire doesn't HAVE to go to the ignition switch, but it can. If you install a diode in that line you can stick it on the key side of the coil (+) and save yourself some crawling under the dash.
Stuart
| | | | | Joined: May 2006 Posts: 103 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: May 2006 Posts: 103 | stupid question: what's a diode and would it work if the coil is built into the distributor? | | | | | Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 | Jeremy,
I don't think that's a stupid question. Think of the diode as a one way valve for electricity.
Your rig has a HEI...will this work? I don't really know for sure, but I don't know why not. It's a common terminal switched on with the key, the same as a conventional ignition.
You can buy little pigtails with a diode already encased that plug between the DA terminal and #1 brown wire. This would only be needed when you tap into an ignition source. It prevents run-on when you turn the key OFF.
Stuart | | |
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