Click on image for the lowdown. 
====
| | | Forums66 Topics128,147 Posts1,056,798 Members48,454 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
| | THANKS!
For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Jul 2006 Posts: 451 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jul 2006 Posts: 451 | All, 46 1/2 stock 235. Putting Fentons and Clifford intake on in next days and will run exhaust piping from there. 1) Has anyone had/felt the need to modify the Fentons to accept a doughnut for a gasket opposed to flat just the flat gaskets? 2) Where did the muffler reside on a stock truck, totally behind cab? 3) Do you think full flexible suspension of the muffler is enough bracketry for the 5-6 foot exhuast run, from the header flange, back to a position under front of bed? Obviously something is needed for the tail pipes but they are on hold until the bed goes back on. Thnaks for thoughts, opinions, and ideas, Brett
| | | | | Joined: Dec 2006 Posts: 1,464 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Dec 2006 Posts: 1,464 | The flat gaskets seem to work fine but you could certainly modify the headers and flange to use a doughnut if you want to.
I think the muffler on a stock truck was pretty much aft of the cab. Someone with a stock ArtDeco could chime in here.
What I did on my AD was to move the mufflers up under the cab, using a flex support at the rear of the mufflers. Then a longer tailpipe, exiting out the back with another flex support. I think the longer tailpipe give you a better sound with the duals. | | | | | Joined: Sep 2003 Posts: 1,820 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2003 Posts: 1,820 | You don't have to modify anything to use donut gaskets, if that's what you like. The rear header has a slight taper at the inside of the flat mounting area. That taper will accept a doughnut gasket. The front header has a flat surface, but there is a doughnut gasket that can be used on that area. It is a half doughnut-half flat made out of the doughnut material. It has a metal clip to hold it in the header, centered up nicely for installation. I have both on my truck and once you have used these kind of doughnuts, you'll never want to use anything else. The better muffler shops have them in stock.
"Truckin' Around .......... Since 1937!" My name is Joe and I am addicted to Classic Country Music. I just can't hep myself.Operators are standing by to take your calls! Now cruising in the Passing Lane | | | | | Joined: Jul 2006 Posts: 451 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jul 2006 Posts: 451 | Thanks, Now to hijack my own thread somewhat. I just set the Fentons and Clifford on the old 235/216 to mock up the fit before the real install. What is the preference: Match Fenton flange thicknesses to the Clifford's, grind/notch the keepers to match steps and flanges on the Fentons and Clifford, or combination of both?
Brett | | | | | Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 2,733 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 2,733 | I didn't do this on mine but I sure would if I had to do it over: take them to a machine shop and have the falnges milled to the same level. I notched the mounting keepers and it isn't right and doesn't look like it should. Should have done what I'm suggesting you do, you'll be happier with the outcome. | | | | | Joined: Sep 2003 Posts: 1,820 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2003 Posts: 1,820 | Take if from me - do not notch/grind the keepers, or clamps - the oval holders. I tried it and it looked horrible! It looked just like you did what you are going to do and I was very unhappy with it. I would definetely do what moneypit suggests! I would have the Fenton flanges machined to match the thickness of the Clifford flanges. With them all even, not only will it look better, but it will BE better (stronger) and it will look "more professional"! Good luck! Joe 
Last edited by 6cylindersovertexas; 04/23/2008 4:45 AM.
"Truckin' Around .......... Since 1937!" My name is Joe and I am addicted to Classic Country Music. I just can't hep myself.Operators are standing by to take your calls! Now cruising in the Passing Lane | | | | | Joined: Jul 2006 Posts: 451 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jul 2006 Posts: 451 | Thanks for the advice. I tool it and matched the flange thiknesses on the Fent's to the Clif but did it by hand instead of using a machine shop. I used the entire arsenal on this one: 4 inch DeWalt grider and a pencil grinder with thin cutting disks, a pencil grinder with carbide bit, and 80 grit 1" sanding wheels. I first smoothed the casting seams on the flanges of the Clif, second spent time to grinding the flanges of the Fent's to the thinkness of the Clif, finally leveled & squared up the contact surfaces of the keepers. All tolled about 4 hours of work. Will try to post some before and after pics tonight. Will bolt it all up tommorrow and hope to have the exhaust run Friday. Again will post all picts to my Fliker site with progress. Thnaks again for the advice - don't know if it would have looked bad the other way but do like the looks this way. Brett | | | | | Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 | Brett,
By hand....you're a much better man than I! Good luck and let us know how it turns out.
Stuart
Last edited by atomarc; 04/25/2008 10:53 PM.
| | | | | Joined: Jul 2006 Posts: 451 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jul 2006 Posts: 451 | Afternoon, Finished the install of the Fents and Clif to my 235. I have put the pics on the fliker site. I tried to keep them in order of mod to flanges, from front of motor to rear. There is one slighly "notched" keeper where I got a bit overzelous with the grinder and now the Fenton flange is thinner than the Clif. Next time I will include a hand file to the tool list! Glad I did not spend the money on coated headers with this flange mod option. They are painted black just to keep them from rusting. I plan to ceramic coat during final tear down. Running to the exhuast shop and hope to have that wrapped up and pic posted by end of weekend. Thanks again for the help, Brett
| | | | | Joined: Jul 2006 Posts: 451 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jul 2006 Posts: 451 | Thanks Thom, Was not time consuming at all for what I got out of it visually. The process I followed is as follows. I bolted the intake and headers up. Modified the keepers to fit the spaces, level width wise. This required rounding of edges and elongation of a couple of bolt holes to increase mating surface area. Reinstalled, tightend. If they touched both the header and intake flange surfaces I marked the higher/thicker of the flanges with a sharpie and a cut a thin notch with the pencil grinder with a thin cut wheel. Then I disasembled and ground the header flanges down to the line and marks. At the same time I used the cutting disc to square off all radius' and surfaces on the intake (raised casting seams). Reinstalled and checked again a couple of times till I was satisfied. Finally, back to the keepers and surfaced them flat, hit everything with 80 grit sanding wheels on the pencil grinder to round a bit and debur. hope this helps,
Brett | | | | | Joined: Oct 2003 Posts: 297 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Oct 2003 Posts: 297 | One quick question while we are on Fentons - is there any grinding to be done if you use the original intake manifold with the fentons.
54 3100 w/62 235 "Yosemite Sam" Born a Jay Hawk, raised an Okie and resurrected in Texas!http://community.webshots.com/user/djed50
| | | | | Joined: Jul 2006 Posts: 451 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jul 2006 Posts: 451 | Papa Ed, I would guess the process would be the same but did not even look at the original intake vs the fentons in my excited state! Maybe someone can give specifics onthier install. Brett | | | | | Joined: Jul 2006 Posts: 451 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jul 2006 Posts: 451 | Exhaust is in and pictures are posted as well. I will leave ya'll alone now. Thnaks again, Brett | | | | | Joined: Sep 2007 Posts: 2,644 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2007 Posts: 2,644 | Brett, Congratulations! This subject has often been discussed but your photos are far-and-away the clearest explanation to date, AND your photos are in focus, clear and perfectly exposed. Thank you! PS... The duct tape bandage didn't get past me  | | | | | Joined: Oct 2003 Posts: 297 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Oct 2003 Posts: 297 | I understand your excitement - hope to get my changeover from split to fentons and c/w carb done before summer. Just need some time. I guess I would have time if I had not spent my last 4 weekends in the woods turkey hunting! Nice job on your truck.
54 3100 w/62 235 "Yosemite Sam" Born a Jay Hawk, raised an Okie and resurrected in Texas!http://community.webshots.com/user/djed50
| | |
| |