The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Panels 'N Burbs Task Force panel rockers again...

I thought I had a sheet metal shop lined up to make rockers for my
1956 panel, but he backed out on me once he figured out what I wanted and that I didn't want 100+ of them. Now, it's back to the drawing board.

Has anyone used '60-'66 panel truck panels on the TF series? I think the body roll is a little different, but I only need the bottom 6 inches or so. Here is a picture of the '60-'66 patch panel, http://www.blackcar-llc.com/images/QPFS43L.jpg

Anyone with any thoughts on this?

the molding at the bottom is way different, as well as the curve of the wheel well ... get some satin body metal, hammer and dolly, and learn some tin bashing, easier than trying to modify something already shaped

Bill

If your after rocker panels,Jim Carter has them for $25-30. Sooner

Bill,

Is there another name for "satin metal?" No one around here has ever heard of it by that name.

thanks

Sooner,

Those are the ones that go under the door steps. I need about another 4-6 inches of metal above that, too. I am hoping to be able to get it as one piece to save joints, although I may end up going the "door rocker" route.

thanks

not sure what 'satin metal' would be other than that - it's what the local sheet metal shop has that's usually used for body work here, same as 16-20 ga sheet but has a satin 'new steel color' surface that doesn't rust readily [but not galvanized]

Bill

Carter's also has the "door step and rocker combo"one stamped piece.Around $100.00.Made to save labour on installation.Up here they call that "satin finish". Regards

"Satin metal" is galvanized, it should be available from your local UAP NAPA store or autobody supply shop....just ask for satin coat steel and specify what ga you want. I would suggest 20ga. Napa carries it in 4'x4' or 4'x8' sizes. For some help in your metal beating lessons check out >www.allshops.org<....Roy

sooner,

Thanks again, but I need from the doors back to the wheel opening for a panel truck and about 6" wide. I guess I didn't make what I am doing clear.

olcarguy,

Thanks for the suggestion. I checked the local NAPA store and even the older guy had never heard of "satin metal" or "satin coat steel." He says that they have never carried sheets of any kind of steel. It was not in their catalogs either. I have also tried roofing companies and "sheet metal" shops, but all they have is galvanized that they make into ducts. This area used to be a "street rod" town, but now if it isn't a h*nda, nobody cares. I do know a couple of old time rodders, but haven't been able to get in touch with them. I'm trying to line up the hard to get stuff first.

thanks for the reply.

I guess the problem is that your southern body shops don't do a lot of rust repair. Have you tried a local blacksmith shop or metal sales yard....does no one sell square tubing or plate steel, check out a fabrication shop. there has to be someone in your area that sells it. Did you log into >www.allshops.org< you can join free of charge and maybe someone in your area can help you locate it....Roy

Roy,

I stayed up into the wee small hours reading on allshops! There is way to much info there for even a few sittings! There doesn't seem to be much rust repair done in this area. A couple of years ago, I helped a friend swap out a 216 for a 235 in a '51 1/2 ton pick up. It had been in his family since nearly new and was almost rust free! I think that my problem is that my truck came from the southern edge of the rust belt. The two metal yards that I used to buy from have both gone out of business. I used to build a few trailers. The only blacksmith in the phone book only does horse and mule shoes, but there has to be somewhere. I'm still looking. Thanks for the suggestions.

There is also a chat group on yahoo connected to the metal shapers site. If you ask on it you might find some one in your neck of the woods......Roy

try www.metalmeet.com very interesting site for panel beaters.

The best solutions for Suburbans, Carryalls and Panels are 1.Cut 58-59 Fleetside longbed bed sides (Bill hates ruining these, but I'm talking an otherwise damaged, partly rusted set) 2. 55-59 door repair panel. They sell just the bottom 6-8" of door skin or a whole door skin. 3. A 55-59 door (use the Bill disclaimer again) and cut out a section. All these have the same curve as your Panel and the Fleetside has the same wheel well roll to about the halfway around point. You can use pieces of the roll or curve these pieces to go all the way around. These ideas work for in front and behind rear wheel. Did it myself. If you are not good at shaping metal, which you can do by forming it around the existing body, then pick one. Weld, grind, fill. THE BIG PROBLEM......the 56 has an inner "fender" or double wall body. You will have to cut access "holes" to use a dolly or to use copper backing for your welds not to burn thru. You can then replace these access holes with sheet metal using the cut piece as a pattern. 58-59 Fleetsides don't have inner walls. You will also have to drill out the spot welds in the "turn under" at the bottom. The rocker panels are perfect for under step area and can be used also for the roll feature along the bottom of your quarter panels. (if you use the door panel technique)

Thanks to everyone who has replied!

Here is what I am dealing with;

http://www.flickr.com/photos/our__lives/2309565943/in/set-72157604045422587/

I think I will probably go the Under door rocker and add sheet metal to that. I am aware of the "inner fender" in the rear, but that looks easy compared to the rockers. I have yet figure a way to rust proof the inside when I'm finished. I have an old cab section that I bought for the good floor. I think I'll cut one of the door rockers and experiment with that, though I don't think that they are good enough to use on my truck.

Thanks again,

Les

Hello
I am working on a 58 gmc panel I used panels from a slab side Pick up bed I fond one and cut out the bottom 10" of the bed and welded it in and it worked ok.If I can find it I have 2 adresses of guys that some times come across repair panels.

Roadmarks: you are getting me a little confused. You say the inner fender repair looks easy compared to the "rockers". In the first part of your post you show a pic of 60-66 "rocker" repair panels. The area that these will repair on my 56 Carryall has "inner fender" also. Typically rockers are the area under the door. This fix is easier than the double wall areas. Even if you replace the step and the rocker, it's easier. I don't really know what you are calling "rockers" and don't get the comment about "easy compared to rockers". The area from rear of door jamb to rear of the vehicle is called the quarter panel. My entire quarter panel has a inner fender, maybe your Panel Truck does not. The quarter panel repair is more difficult to repair on inner fender Task Force vehicles than the rocker and is done with one of the methods I described in my other post. About sealing: If the inner fenders areas are closed in after repair, they don't need sealing. We Suburban/carryall types have to worry about the side windows leaking water down the inside, you don't. You can squirt some undercoat type product into holes in the quarter panel or cut out the inner fenders and add a brace or two and undercoat. I have not looked at a TF Panel Truck so I am speaking from Suburban/Carryall experience only. Bartamos.

Bart - he's refering to the molding at the bottom of the quarters as 'rockers', the rocker patch panels available are the same shape and can be used back to the start of the wheel opening, which is the real problem area

the panel truck lower half construction is identical to the burb, and the primary reason they all get rotten is the total lack of finish on the inside of the double wall panels, doesn't require any leaks .... over time simple condensation results in surface rust that flakes off and collects at the pinch weld, slowly building up and remaining wet by trapping the condensation ... the only way to stop that is to finish the insides of those panels or [what I'm doing] leave the bottom open between the panels so the grit doesn't have a place to get trapped and build up

note that you never see a fleetside bed with that kind of rot, only because the fleet doesn't have the inner panel ... OTOH, it took many years of all weather driving for those quarters to rot, and it's unlikely any of us will be using the rebuilt panel/burb as full time daily drivers [except me ]

Bill

OIC, we don't know about condensation in Arizona! Drill some holes high up under the "bed" and pour/pump some POR15 or equivalent in there and leave the holes open to "breath". It should all settle at the bottom where the potential rust-out is. Nice to hear from you Red, what are you doing on the computer in the middle of the day? you are not retired yet!

even hard workers get breaks, and some of us get'em whenever we feel like it ... I am, however, putting lotsa time in on the project, including about 35' of 'rockers' per side ... now that the garden is all in

Bill

Holy Old Apple Tree Park, that's a lot of "rockers". Must be a bus or something.