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#40008 07/29/2004 7:01 PM
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 60
J
Wrench Fetcher
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I got my 216 out and called around to a couple of places to see what a rebuild was gonna cost. Everywhere told me at least 2000 bucks would it be cheaper to send down and have it rebuilt in the states? OR should I just buy a 235 and put it in. I looked up tech tips on that and it seemed like the only thing to change out is the motor mount from the 216 to the 235. Is this to difficult for someone with not a whole lot of engine experience? I am lost. Please help. Thanks, Jess


1951 3100
#40009 07/29/2004 7:47 PM
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 2,773
F
'Bolter
'Bolter
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When I built a 235 for my 52 I spent about $1000 for machine work and parts, did the assembly myself. That was in 2000. Rebuilding a 216 would have been about the same. Higher now due to inflation.

Ease of dropping in a 235 depends on the year the engine was built. The 54-55 models need the least work, about the only things you have to change are the accelerator linkage and the exhaust pipe. Later models also need a short shaft water pump and the front motor mount bracket added.

Ralphy is right, the problem will be finding a running 235.


Fred
52 3600
69 C-10
#40010 07/29/2004 7:56 PM
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J
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I talked to schmucks (krager) a couple of days ago and they said they could get me a longblock for about 1500 including freight. I am not sure about year but Im thinking they said '58 so I think the front motor mounts would be changed. I think that is the route im going to g with. Not sure yet though. Jess


1951 3100
#40011 07/29/2004 7:57 PM
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J
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Posts: 60
Also I was tinking about pulling off the oil pan and valves , cleaning it up and just using it as is any suggegestions on that?


1951 3100
#40012 07/29/2004 8:17 PM
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 29,749
H
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
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Was it running before you took it out, and, if so, how well? If the cylinders aren't worn tapered, and the crankshaft is round, a ring and valve job will put you back in operation. You'll need to pay attention to oil clearance at the rods, and remove some shims if there are any left if the clearance is loose. About .002" at the tightest point has alwayw worked well for me. Badly worn or scored cylinders, a scored or out-of-round crankshaft, or rods with bearing material missing are all reasons to do a full overhaul, or start looking for a later-model replacement.
Jerry


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#40013 07/29/2004 11:47 PM
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After running a 216 for a few years you will thank yourself for going to the 235 bearing motor. Around here its about 1200 bucks and thats with a .040 overbore new pistons new valves,guides,springs and seats. Boiling the block cam bearings and decking the block and head to raise the comp a little. I would also balance the motor if you have a good guy. My 46 i did not and my 48 i did . What a diff.The only reason a 216 is a boat anchor is they cost way to much to rebuild and not very many machine shops will bother to do it correctly for you. Go the 235 or 261 if you can find one up there. Also put the full presure oil filter on it when you build it. Good deal and how to do it is here on the board someplace. 53 car motor with hydr lifter is the best.Think it had to be a powerglide car.

#40014 07/30/2004 3:40 AM
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Spent about $800 in parts for my 261, ~$200 for the engine and another $800 for machine work. Mine required a little more time and effort to get it right plus a cylinder sleeve on #5, so I might have been able to do it for less if luckier. I took it to the machinist fully disassembled and that's the way it came back. They estimated about $400 to assemble it to the point of a long block. Don't think $2000 is really out of the question especially if it is someone reputable that can work with those old bearings. Good luck.


Whad you do?!?

Shane
1953 Chevrolet 3600
#40015 07/30/2004 4:22 AM
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S
'Bolter
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What about just picking up a rebuilt from Jim Carter's? I see they list them for $1200. Is this a dumb question or am I missing something?


Tim Sheridan
1947 First Series Chevy 1/2-Ton
"Liberty Series" - "Art Deco" - Whatever you'd like to call it.
In the Gallery
#40016 07/30/2004 4:26 AM
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Wrench Fetcher
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Definitely a good idea, I have seen them listed in Carter's catalog, didn't think of it though. I think most everyone here has been pleased with the quality at Carter's. Why not look at it? In retrospect, I would have bought been better of buying a rebuilt engine if I could have found a 261. Problem is, you miss out of some the fun and learning from doing it that way.


Whad you do?!?

Shane
1953 Chevrolet 3600
#40017 07/30/2004 2:22 PM
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 962
C
Shop Shark
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I spent about 1,200 for parts for my 235 long block. The clifford manifold, 4bbl, fentons, new rocker assys, pumps, pulleys, dist, clutch, ring gear, machine work, etc pushed the total bill to 3 grand or so.

chip


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#40018 07/30/2004 9:27 PM
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Hey Jess,
Hope to see you tomorrow if it isn't pouring rain. We have a couple of guys in our club that have done the 235s. I think Bill had his done at Port machine shop for about $1400. But I don't know how much extra they did or didn't do on the rebuild. There might be a rebuildable 235 around also?? I'm taking my GMC 228 apart right now so I'm learning as I go also.
Later, Buddy in AK


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#40019 07/31/2004 7:05 AM
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J
Wrench Fetcher
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So,
Sunday Im going to pull the heads, make sure the rods are straight and check the cylinder walls . I want to run the 216 for awhile if I can get away with it. Any thing I should have a look for? Thanks, Jess


1951 3100
#40020 07/31/2004 7:10 AM
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J
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I also forgot to ask....How do I get the harmonic blncer off of this thing. Thanks, Jess


1951 3100
#40021 07/31/2004 11:52 AM
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 9,115
'Bolter
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Use a puller made for that job. It will have bolts that thread directly into the center of the hub. Do not use a puller with hooks around the outside. This method can destroy it.


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