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Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks  Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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| | | | Joined: Sep 2006 Posts: 28 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Sep 2006 Posts: 28 | Hey guys,
I need some help. I have an original '50 1/2 ton 5 window. I'd like to upgrade the frame don't have the cash for a mustang II. A local guy has a '62 shortbed 2wd complete frame for sale for $150. How well would my '50 body bolt up to this frame? Could I run a small block and TH auto trans with it? any help would be great...especially from someone who's done this combination! Thanks! | | | | | Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 7,440 Bolter | | Bolter Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 7,440 | A lot of mods required to do that swap.
Martin
'62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress)
'47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project)
‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily)
‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence)
“I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one!
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USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)
| | | | | Joined: May 2004 Posts: 920 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: May 2004 Posts: 920 | The 62 frame along with its' torsion bar IFS is rare. Those "X" frames were only used from 60 - 62. That's why you don't see chassis parts/upgrades for trucks of those years in the vendor catalogs. Do a search for torsion bar suspension parts for those years and you will see. The mustang II seems cheap to me compared to what you would have to do to make that frame work w/ the tranny and motor you want to use.
Good Luck! | | | | | Joined: Oct 2003 Posts: 5,152 Cruising in the Passing Lane | | Cruising in the Passing Lane Joined: Oct 2003 Posts: 5,152 | If you are tight on bucks AND if the frame is structurly sound, I'd use the original and just replace the worn parts and bushings. Get a dropped front axle and a lowering kit for the rear.
It doesn't have to cost a lot of money.
Replacing the worn parts in a 45 year old suspension could easily cost as much as the most economical Mustang II crossmembers.
1955 1st GMC Suburban | 1954 GMC 250 trailer puller project | 1954 GMC 250 Hydra-Matic | 1954 Chevy 3100 . 1947 Chevy COE | and more...
It's true. I really don't do anything but browse the Internet looking for trouble... | | | | | Joined: Aug 2004 Posts: 1,067 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Aug 2004 Posts: 1,067 | Best thing to do to see how it'll fit is draw a detailed diagram and take measurements. If you do the frame drawing on graph paper and then do the 1950 body on onion paper (tracing paper), and make them to scale, it might make it easier to determine preliminary mounting points and where you'll have to weld up modifications.
I'd personally tackle this project this way. If you do the work yourself, you won't need a lot of money. The handier you are, the cheaper the project will be.
52 GMC 3/4 ton pickup
68 Big Block Vette
68 455 Firebird
| | | | | Joined: Jul 2005 Posts: 595 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jul 2005 Posts: 595 | the track width is wider than the 50' and your front tires will stick out. | | | | | Joined: Sep 2006 Posts: 28 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Sep 2006 Posts: 28 | thanks for the info, guys. Glad I asked! | | |
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