The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Engine won't start when cold!

Maybe it's just a coincidence, but my 292 has not started this winter on days when the temps are in the 30s or 40s (or colder). Today was mild and the engine crank and ran like a top. A little hesitation from all the gas I'd dumped in the carb over the last few days trying to get it going, but once it smoothed out it ran like a sewing machine. Same thing happened about 6 weeks ago (which was the last time I was able to get the engine running).

Engine turns as normal; turns really strong as if it will crank. But nothing. Most everything about my engine/drivetrain has less than 3k miles on it. Literally. The only thing that's not new on my engine is the distributor shaft. Everything at the top of the distributor (coil, cap, module, wires) is new. I have a brand new distributor but since the engine starts and runs well I don't see a need for it.

The carb is an Edelbrock 500 cfm 4 barrel and the intake is Offy, water heated. The engine wiring harness is new, so is the starter and battery terminals and ground wires. The choke is electric and works well. What could be wrong here?

-ftyler

my dad(R.I.P.) had a 41 chevy years ago...let it sit for about a week in the -20 below weather,,,he got in,,whir,whir,vrroooooooomm!!,,she popped off!!..i have a 53 chev that does the same thing...those old Chevy's were built tough....

Did you make sure there is no resistance wire to the distributor and that it is getting the full 12 volts?

Possibly gas draining back from the carb?

have you had a chance to check your choke plate, also the carb to manfold gasket to make sure it is snug the back of my carb came loose and had a heck of a time to make it run cold

I haven't but I will. That would explain the "cold" temperature starting problem (say if I were getting only 9-10 volts).

Would that not cause problems in all weather conditions? :confused:

I'm sure the choke plate is fine. I have not checked the carb to manifold gasket but that's simple enough to do. It's quite possible that the nuts holding the carb down have worked loose some and is causing some tiny air opening making cold weather start difficult.

Thanks for the pointers guys!

-ftyler

Check voltage at the starter while someone's inside turnin' the key. Then check to see if there's full voltage at dizzy, etc.
Recently, with my hard starting problems on my '65, I checked the wiring going to starter and found the purple ignition wire kinked with a couple bare spots down by the "S" terminal. Repaired that then checked out the firewall plug connector where the ignition wire and temp. wire, etc. come out. That plug was fairly corroded. After cleaning the plug connector, repairing the ignition wire, installing 2 gauge battery cables, cleaning all connections and applying dielectric grease, my no starts are cured.
If that firewall plug connector still exists on yours, take a good look at it. I've a feeling I had decreased voltage because of that corrosion. I'd bet if I only cleaned that plug and done nothing else, it would've been good.
If you still can't figure it out, maybe it's just a fair weather truck and you should move to San Diego.
-David

Man o man! Lemme tell you how bad I jinxed myself with that last post! Went out to drive home a few hours after I posted the above, she won't start! Only cranks. Screwdriver on the starter... starts up. What the f*ck!! :mad:
So, forget everything I said. Well don't forget it. You should check your voltage.
Me, I'm now back where I started with possible intermittant ignition module or pickup coil as suggested here in previous posts.
Good luck with your troubles Fred. Hope it's easier to figure out than mine.
-David

mugsy,

I think my problem has already been resolved (by 4onthefloor). In fact it almost has to be the problem. I changed the engine harness last fall (before the cool weather) and had never had this problem the winter before. Well on the new harness the wires that attach to the distributor are of a smaller diameter than the old ones. The wire on the harness is of a much thinner gauge than the HEI hot wire coming off the distributor. I now only have to figure out the best way to get a good permanent connection there.

-ftyler

good luck ftyler.

my '65 with sbc v-8 has been dying in the cold at idle after it has run a little while - but maybe not up to full operatin' temp. That one is confuzzlin' me.

-W

could be the gas your running iv had starting problems with certain gas and the humidty it wouldnt fire switch brands fired right up some gas will atract water also and coat the plugs