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98 LS1, 4L60E trans from T.A. WS6
Just received the adapters for S.B. engine mounts. Just
sitting in the bay right now. Choosing to sit engine level.
Considering to keep emissions equipment on. Harness and
computer to be done locally.
Will need steering knuckles. Very close fit for Flaming River Steering column.
Attempting to use stock manifolds, very close fit. Probably
will have to notch frame rails.
Any suggestions, please.

What are you doing for the harness and ecm ? if you are capable there are some harness kits avaialble for purchase for around $110.Does your fuel rail have a return on it or just the single line ? I have been researching all the parts needed for my 2006 6.0 for around a year so I may be able to help you .

Greetings;
I do not have Editlive software or tuners. There is a guy
fairly close by who programs ecm and will redue the harness.
If I am running emissions, I wander what he will disable?
I know there is anti-theft but not experienced enough to know.
I have the fuel cell from the T.A. with all wires. Also have
the exhaust with all sensors. Is it better to buy the program
and equipment so one can do it themselves?
Cheers

Check out the following site and it will explain more in detail .I have spoken direct to John and he will help you in anyway possible
http://www.speartech.com/
I was going to have Speartech rework my harness until I purchased the following from this site http://www.currentperformance.com/eng_mgt.html#Mod
it should get the system up and running .It includes diagrams and marked wireing connections with relays and fuses.Pretty sweet and cheaper than the rework if you understand basic wiring.Feel free to drop me a PM if I can help.

I am REALLY interested in the PHYSICAL FIT aspects of this project, as my buddy and I are about to start to try to fit a GM LQ9 6.0 liter engine (identical external block and most other parts to your engine).

I bought, from Street and Performance, their LS engine adaptors that adapt the LS engine block to regular SBC mounts, their bolt-in SBC mounts, and their tubular transmission crossmember (all these parts are actually made by Chassis Engineering).

The info I got from them is that the steering box clearance will be too tight, and that the steering box will need to be moved over about an inch, which is apparently not difficult and is workable. The exhaust clearance will also be tight, so we are prepard to go with anything from stock exhaust manifolds to tight clearance headers or whatever can fit without too much hassle.

We know that clearance at the front will be very tight because the LS series engines require several inches for the FEAD (front end accessory drives), and because we need to fit in a combination radiator / tranny cooler / AC condenser / shroud / electric fan. We will take some measurements once we get the engine roughly positioned.

The back of the engine on the LS is WIDER and HIGHER than the smallblock, due to the clyinder head corners. So, even though the distance from a reference engine mounting bolt hole to the back of block is 1" shorter on the LS series engine than on the SBC, we have asked the body shop to dent the firewall back just a bit.

If you have to CHANGE FEAD, the costs go ballistic, as GM offers only 3 variants (Corvette, Camaro/Firebird, or truck), and if none of them work, the after amrket ones START at over $2000 (no kidding). So, we want to try to avoid that.

We know already we will need a different (shorter) AC compressor, as the LS engine mount adaptor plate comes too far forward to allow using the stock 6.0 liter compressor in its low passenger side mount position. A shorter compressor will fit via mount adaptors.

How far back did you mount your engine in the chassis? (Use some easy-to-identify reference points, if you could, like middle rivet in the front crossmember to a clearly defined point on the engine mount). The instructions we got, which apply to the SBC, say to position the CENTER of each actual rubber engine mount bolt 15 1/8 inches rearward from the center of the middle rivet. Is that where you are, or somehwere different?

Jim G

Jim,
Did you get one of street and performance catalogs ? They have pics of all the different accessory combinations.You will find the car applications moves the P/S up -vs- low on the truck applications.You are correct on the price WOW .My 61 will allow use of the stock system with a little frame modification.

There are a couple of points I will cover off:
1. I changed out the rad support, inner fender aprons, firewall
to "Birchin Products" Everything is flat and smooth.
The S & P bracketry in problematic for me and they have not
addressed the problem like Zoops or March with the narrow frame
set up. Problem is the price. I have lots of room up but not
laterally. I have another source that offers
straight upright brackets for alt and air. You have to change to
to to the other air comp. (stock will not work) Complete set up with air comp, alt. power steering for $1400. I have the
Eng. mount adapters from Advanced that change to Small block
type (same as you). I seem to have lots of room up front. I
cut out one half of the original cross member. (now in front of
Mustang II) The 98 T.A. manifolds are quite narrow(I do not think tight fit headers are narrower. The stock manifolds though
have 02 sensor bung and manifold flange sticking out. I cut the
outside of the flange about 3/4 of inch. and will retap. I
am trying to use the original header pipe from the T.A.
My motor is sitting with about 2 inches to spare in front of
firewall. I have the tubular trans mount not in yet, still have
the stock cross member in. (Will have to remove it)
The Mustang II power rack steering box and knuckle, shaft
assembly looks like it will just slide by. (three knuckles to
steering column) I have pictures of this already being done in
48 Chev P.U. The best thing would be to send you pic's directly.
Cheers

Thanks! Irecievd your email with the firewall photo atatched, and am looking forward to seeing more photos when you can send them!

I don't need power steering bracket (using manual steering with original steering box and original front axle), but an AC compressor mount that gets the AC compressor UP above the passenger side of the engine would maybe be a better solution than trying to figure out the adaptor / different compressor for the existing location impeded on by the LS mount adaptor. WHERE did you get that high AC compressor mount?

Jim G

I am doing the same in my 50 model with a 5.3 out of a 2006 Tahoe. I just finished the mustang II install and have the weld in engine mounts with the tubular trans mount. I should be fitting the engine/trans in a few weeks. if anyone has pics that would be nice. I plan to take some as I go along, why wont the stock compressor work?

IFS installed
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a198/ahsum/ifs1.jpg
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a198/ahsum/ifs3.jpg
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a198/ahsum/ifs7.jpg

If you use the most common type of LS engine mount adaptors, which adapt the LS engines to regular smallblock mounts, they come forward enough on the side of the block to preclude getting the AC compressor mounted without interference.

Jim G

I have those type mount adapters, this truck has to have A/C due to our climate so I will have to come up with a solution.

You and I both!

I'll keep you posted on progress we make when we get to that point.

Right now, we solved the exhaust manifold clearance problem, and are working on the steering box problem.

Jim G

I don't think I will have exhaust clearance problems because I went with a Mustang II front suspension. I will just have to see where the compressor ends up with that new crossmember.

Any updates on this thread? I am thinking about starting a project like this one!

not much on mine, but you will have to move the compressor to the top, even with the mustang II crossmember