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#395832 03/31/2008 3:48 PM
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 6
C
New Guy
New Guy
C Offline
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 6
Hi all,

I Need a little help, this Inline thing is new to me but fun. I'm looking at buying a truck that is real straight (sans the customary rot on the rockers and bottom doors.) But the engine seems to have given up. The current owner re-tells a story of a loud back-fire upon engine start then a bad knock, not sure if from the valve train assy or the crank. He isn't much of a motorhead so it has sat like that for several years. My intention is to diagnose the failure and make the right offer. To this end he will allow me to do some wrenching before I buy. I have done some preliminary investigation on what he has, here are my findings:

Here is the specifics:

1960 C10
Block 3769716 (1960 number)
Head 3701887 (1953 number)

Questions:

1.) Is there significant difference in head performance/design, it bolted up all right but is this mismatch problematic?

2.) Do I have a "High Oil Pressure engine"? I think so but would like some conformation.

3.) I intend to stay with the inline but seem to find the cost of parts higher and the availability of cores short on the 235. If the Rotating assy is shot is it more economical to go with a newer 250 or 292. Is this a good observation or am I not looking hard enough?

4.) The Clutch was replaced some time back and he needed to use a 1967 6 cyl camaro clutch assy and the Bell housing didn't mate exactly right ( the mouning holes seemed to be elongated, without sufficiant tourqe it moves around its center axis This sounds Like a problem to me, any thoughts? Even if it fit the gear ratios must be off.

Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 2,644
C
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
C Offline
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 2,644
1.) Not sure but I doubt it's a problem.
2.) If it's a '60 block, yes
3.) Parts for a 235 are expensive that's why a lot of guys are dumping them for SBC. For instance, rod, crank and cam bearings are close to $200
4.) He "NEEDED" to hack together a clutch? That makes no sense because you can get the correct parts at NAPA. That needs investigating.


Woody
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My 1951 half-ton 'Ol Red

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Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 6
C
New Guy
New Guy
C Offline
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 6
Thanks much for the input I really look forward to this whole process. I like the idea of staying with the original configuration but will consider otherwise if it makes good sense. I plan to use the truck for what it was intended.. Mostly household chores some camping that sort of stuff. The nostalgic value of an original truck is a strong motivation, If my intention is to have a classic WORKING TRUCK is repairing the stovebolt a viable option, I don't care about speed, I have a tricked '67 camaro for that and for comfort i'll use the caddilac. Some dialog on this subject would be helpful, I've been known for some fun but irrational decisions

Joined: May 2004
Posts: 920
B
'Bolter
'Bolter
B Offline
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 920
235s are a dime a dozen. Just check Ebay. They usually go for about 100 if you can pick one up locally. Rebuilding them to stock specs isn't too expensive if you have a complete motor. Warming them up is a different story. The 848 head is more desirable AND the correct head for the year. It offers higher compression hence more power. A 250 or 292 will require some fabrication for the mounts at least.


1962 Fleetside 4spd 235 w/O.D. posi 3:90
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