The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop Doors Inside door latch and window handle troubles.

I'm having a slight problem with the door latch and wondow handle on the passenger side door of my 1950 3100. The grooves on the posts that the latch and handle slide onto are worn smooth, I.E.- nothing for the latches to grab onto when they are turned. I have vice grips currently being used to open and close the passenger door, but want to get my hardware back on the door asap. Any quick fix ideas out there other than replaceing the posts ( be doing that in August or so.)?

I have a 51 and I have the same problem.

If memory serves me correctly, there is a set screw on your door and window handle. If you're going to replace the post later anyway, you can grind a flat on the post, and the set screw will hold the handle in place. You could even drill a small hole in the post, large enough for the set screw to just enter. That will be even better.
BlueDawg

What BlueDawg said.

Thanx Bluedawg, think I'll try to drill a hole for the screws and maybe that will hold me till the new posts come in.
Thanks again
:-)

Hello Philzamatic3100. i had the same problem with my 57, and i amde my own custom handles for the door, and will do the same very soon for my window cranks. ithe bolt will be posting my tech article soo, but here it is now for you, and a link to my web shots for the pics..hope this helps you out...leonard.

1957 custom door handles.

Hey guys, do you hate the inside door handles on your truck stripping out ?
Go to buy new ones and find the after market Chinese made handles are worse than the ones you are trying to replace ?
That happened to me, so here is how I made my own custom door handles...

I was going to try to fabricate something with a 12 point socket or 12 point box end wrench, but found out that the splinned shaft coming out of the door panel is 16 point, so no go with that idea.

So I made a simple cinch nut that will NEVER come off again, and got a neat looking handle to go with it.

Here is what I did.

Parts needed.... (2) 7/16-20 nuts, (4) 1/4-20 nuts, (2) 1/4-20 socket head cap screws, (2) 1/2 inch wrenches, (2) 1/2-13 nuts.

I will explain one handle, just do this twice....

First, take (1) 7/16-20 nut and drill the threaded inside out with a 7/16, .437 drill.
Then take (2) 1/4-20 nuts and screw (1) 1/4-20 socket head cap screw into the both of them, leaving about a 1/8 gap between them.
Then tig weld the (2) 1/4-20 nuts to the 7/16 nut in the fashion in the picture.
Now take the 1/4-20 socket head cap screw out.
Now drill ONLY one of the 1/4-20 nuts out with a 1/4 inch, .250 drill.
Now hack saw the 7/16-20 nut BETWEEN the (2) 1/4-20 nuts.
Now weld a wrench, (i used a 1/2 inch wrench with the box end cut off), to the 7/16-20 nut.
and to fill the space between the 7/16 nut and the door panel, I drilled out a 1/2-13 nut with a 1/2 inch, .500 drill, and tig welded it ONLY in one small area of the 7/16-20 nut.....you don’t want to weld it to both legs of the nut. it wont cinch if you do.
Now screw the 1/4-20 socket head cap screw through the drilled out 1/4-20 nut, into the still threaded 1/4-20 nut.
Slip over the splinned door handle shaft, position in any desired way, and tighten the 1/4-20 socket head cap screw
Now you have a custom looking door handle the will NEVER strip again, and will never fall off.

You can add anything you want to replace the wrench idea I had..... I will also do something along this line to my window cranks also....

http://s251.photobucket.com/albums/gg307/RATRODKING/57%20door%20handles/

Hope you like my idea.....LEONARD

That was the case on my 53 and the previous owner had drilled thru the screw hole in the handle and thru the splined shaft and inserted a nail. I didn't know until trying to pry the handle off (after trying other means) I actually broke off a piece of the splined shaft.
If you do change posts remember there are two kinds. One for the doors without vent windows (47-50) and one for the later years. The number of teeth differ.

I just bought a pair of doors and one had both handles glued onto the posts with what looked like JB Weld... and I had to just about nuke the door to get them off. So if you're looking for a permanent fix with no turning back you may consider that.