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Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks  Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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| | | | Joined: Jul 2007 Posts: 224 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2007 Posts: 224 | my engine kit came with the old rope seal and the neoprene what do you guys use | | | | | Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 2,102 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 2,102 | I prefer the neoprene seals. Fred
1956 3100 Pickup/Red/350/3sp OD/PS/Disc Brakes
1957 Bel Air Sport Coupe/Red/355/TH350/PS/Disc Brakes
2017 Silverado LT Single Cab SB/Black/5.3/6 Speed Trans
1947 Willys CJ2A w/F-Head engine
| | | | | Joined: Jan 2001 Posts: 5,337 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2001 Posts: 5,337 | If the seal area on the crank has not been turned or not rust pitted the neoprene is my preference. Also the neoprene seal does not work well in engines with shims on the mains.
See the USA in your vintage Chevrolet! My Blog | | | | | Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 2,953 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 2,953 | I used neoprene on my 235. When you install it try to offset the half where it joins the other. This is hard to describe in writing but basically I had one end of the top half recessed in the groove and the other end sticking out. The same in the main cap. What this does is offsets the seam so it does not line up with the mating surfaces of the cap/block. This will prevent further leaks.
| | | | | Joined: Feb 2008 Posts: 829 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Feb 2008 Posts: 829 | That's exactly what my Father and I did when rebuilding the engine a few years ago. | | |
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