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#371954 02/07/2008 6:18 PM
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I'm heading to a local junk yard on Saturday to get a grill and a couple of fenders for my '50. I started to take my front end off of my truck last night, and realized that it's a little more complex than I thought. Fifty eight year old bolts don't like to co-operate, even after being soaked in PB Blaster for a couple of days. I ended up getting a bunch out, but also snapped a few as well.

Does anyone have any suggestions to getting a grill off at the yard? My one idea was to take a cordless sawzall and cut around the fenders and lower rad support. I really don't like to do it, just because I'm probably going to feel horrible for cutting up the fenders. ANY suggestions would be much appreciated. Thanks.


~Jenny

"Custom can't be bought. It's achieved one cut at a time."

1950 Chevrolet 3100 1/2-Ton

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I've taken rusty bolts off of farm equipment with a hammer and cold chisel. Its how I removed the mounting bolts from the extra set of rear springs that I have in my garage.

I've watched dad do this one on our tractor, tighten the bolts up as much as you can, and then back them off and they should break free.

One thing I always take with me to the junkyard is a pipe wrench, a breaker bar and a BFH or two

Last edited by 66stepside; 02/07/2008 7:02 PM. Reason: my crappy spelling skills
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Bolter
Bolter
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Take a cordless drill and some sharp bits. The grill boltheads can be drilled out then knocked off with a chisel fairly easily.


Martin
'62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress)
'47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project)
‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily)
‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence)
“I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one!
Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop!
USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)

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One of the main reasons why a lot of yard owners don't allow the public to remove parts anymore,(other than liability), is because of people butchering up good parts that are in the way to remove something else. Be respectful of what you do and how you act in a yard that still allows it. It'll pay you back in the long run.

Bob

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I don't plan on cutting any fenders if they are good. If they are completely rotted it out, though, I'd do it. Either way, I'd still feel horrible.


~Jenny

"Custom can't be bought. It's achieved one cut at a time."

1950 Chevrolet 3100 1/2-Ton

Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 4,185
Leo Offline
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I agree with Martin. I usually take my cordless drill with me.

Leo #372006 02/07/2008 8:32 PM
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Try tightening them til they break. You can always work on getting the rest out when you get home.


My truck: She may not be the prettiest girl at the dance, but she's all mine!
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Try a cordless dremel tool. And get lots of reinforced cutting wheels. I'd personally opt to cut the bolts rather than any sheetmetal.

Another thing you might try is heating the nuts with a propane torch and then try breaking it loose with a socket and wrench. If worse comes to worse, you'll just shear the bolt in half.


52 GMC 3/4 ton pickup
68 Big Block Vette
68 455 Firebird
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If possible, don't bother fighting the rust and tighten until they snap

Tim K #372131 02/08/2008 12:04 AM
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I found that if you are quick you can snap the bolt with little effort for usally the head is rusted to the sheet metal. This is advice for the blasted flat head screws with a nut on the bottom. I had a ton of those on my I sure alot of them weren't orginal but replacements but the heads were so soft they stripped instantly. It became easier to snap them then spend 20 minutes grinding them off.

Delux #372155 02/08/2008 12:51 AM
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Master Gabster
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Don't forget your visegrips.
You're lucky you have a "junque" yard with ADs in it close by.


~Jim
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jdl Offline
'Bolter
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TimK, where do you live in Indiana?


Jordan D. Long

1954 Chevrolet 3100 1/2-Ton

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jdl #372216 02/08/2008 2:21 AM
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I agree with the tightening until they snap. Although one of the yards I go to will remove it for $10 (they send the guy with the truck, air tools and torches).

Scott


The problems we face today can not be addressed at the same level of intelligence we were at when we created them - Albert Einstein Or with the same level of $ - Me
Delux #372292 02/08/2008 4:15 AM
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'Bolter
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Do as BJR said, and it'll pay off in more ways than you can think. Remember, be careful of whose toes you step on in life...they may be attached to the butt you have to kiss later on.
Cold chisel and a BFH works great when you're out in the yard.


dj durant

1964 Chevrolet C-10 Pickup Truck
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Tramp #372396 02/08/2008 1:58 PM
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Thanks for all the input guys!! I really appreciate it. I really didn't want to cut anything, but that was the only "quick, easy" way that I could think of to get one off at the yard. I'll definitely be taking a cordless drill and chisel now. Oh, and can't forget the BFH. I've got a nice size one that I think will help out a bit. Thanks again.


~Jenny

"Custom can't be bought. It's achieved one cut at a time."

1950 Chevrolet 3100 1/2-Ton

Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 453
M
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I agree with Hot Rod Dad about the cordless Dremmel tool. That's what I used to take some of the grill screws off my truck.

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You might try a combination of these tactics and see which works best for the situation. Better to come prepared with too many tools rather than not enough.

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I was kinda planning on taking whatever I thought could be useful, along with a lot of muscle. Hopefully all will go well, and I'll come back with the parts that I need. There's supposed to be at least 20 or so trucks like mine, even panel wagons and such, up there. Guess I'll have a bunch to choose from.


~Jenny

"Custom can't be bought. It's achieved one cut at a time."

1950 Chevrolet 3100 1/2-Ton

Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 153
4
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Don't limit yourself to battery tools.

I take the big swap meet wagon loaded with a 12 volt battery and a 12 volt power inverter and 120V tools. I drill out the big rivets and stubborn bolts and then use the reciprocating saw and grinder as required.


1946 Chevy Half Ton
('56 235, '86 T5, '79 Camaro Z28 rear end, working on the '85 Jaguar XJ6 IFS)
1976 Margay Panther X, MC91B

Delux #374729 02/13/2008 7:31 AM
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Junk yard should have a gas axe (acetelene torch). Just heat up the rusted in bolts a bit, and put the wrenches to them. Usually works like a charm.

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Theres a product caled " move-it " that seems to work extremely fast. Beats WD 40 by a landslide. I would spray the bolts here and there wherever ya can,...finish the coffee ya came with, light one if ya got one, wait a few minutes and start a crankin,....good luck.

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Whatis a BFH? Sorry, but I have no idea what you are talking about.


The CPA, never under estimate the value;
especially when he's driving an old Chevy truck!

1947 Chevy 1/2-Ton Advance Design in the Gallery

1951 Chevrolet 3100
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 39
1
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big fu$%!ng hammer

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How about an update,did you get your parts???
--------------
Floyd


_____________
Floyd

If we choose being kind over being right,we will
be right every time.
Knowledge is a poor substitute for experience.
Remember what is precious to another, may not be to you, but it
is precious nonetheless.

1948 Chevy 2-Ton

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