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| | Forums66 Topics126,780 Posts1,039,296 Members48,100 | Most Online2,175 Jul 21st, 2025 | | | Joined: Dec 2007 Posts: 180 Wrench Fetcher | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Dec 2007 Posts: 180 | I am trying to decide on a powertrain for my 50 model. I am cosidering a late model fuel injected engine possiblty a LT1 or LS1 with a matching overdrive trans. theese engines need all sorts of input from speed sensors, brake pedal input and such. how can you make this swap work ? | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 1,624 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: May 2005 Posts: 1,624 | The computer and associated wiring harness is the problem for most people around here. There is a company in Arkansas called "Steet and Performance" which will modify your computer and build you a wiring harness for around $800.00. Working closely with them to determined what sensors and control inputs will stay or be dropped will help your engine swap be sucesseful.
Six volt guy living in a twelve volt world
| | | | Joined: Dec 2007 Posts: 198 Wrench Fetcher | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Dec 2007 Posts: 198 | 50ADRod: If you want the LS series engine, but aren't hung up on having the EFI, BOTH Edelbrock and GM performance are now supporting carbureted intake LS engines, that continue to use the coil packs and reluctors, via an MSD blackbox ignition kit.
This is a FAR simpler installation than the EFI route.
The end power is not worse or not better - virtually identical everywhere in the RPM range, but I suspect that the fuel mileage on the carbureted versions is not as good. I don't know HOW MUCH not as good.
This is ONE route that I myself am considering on my SLURP project, posted on this website.
Jim G | | | | Joined: Dec 2007 Posts: 180 Wrench Fetcher | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Dec 2007 Posts: 180 | 50ADRod: If you want the LS series engine, but aren't hung up on having the EFI, BOTH Edelbrock and GM performance are now supporting carbureted intake LS engines, that continue to use the coil packs and reluctors, via an MSD blackbox ignition kit.
This is a FAR simpler installation than the EFI route.
The end power is not worse or not better - virtually identical everywhere in the RPM range, but I suspect that the fuel mileage on the carbureted versions is not as good. I don't know HOW MUCH not as good.
This is ONE route that I myself am considering on my SLURP project, posted on this website.
Jim G thanks I had not even thought of that. I think I will stay with the fuel injection. number one it is cheaper and I work as a tech and deal with theese cars everday, my specialty is computer controls and driveability so I shoild be able to do all the wiring myselfthe only other thing needed is a high pressure fuel pump, hopefully all goes well I will let you know | | | | Joined: Oct 2003 Posts: 5,152 Cruising in the Passing Lane | Cruising in the Passing Lane Joined: Oct 2003 Posts: 5,152 | I'm prepping for a swap using an older TBI motor. Part of my prep is reading a book from Jags That Run about TPI and TBI swaps. I don't know if there is a similar book on the LS motors, but I'd look for one. This book has helped me a great deal knowing what I'm dealing with.
I recently saw a magazine article on replacing a TPI motor with an LS, so the information must be out there. It was in one of the Corvette magazines a few months back.
1955 1st GMC Suburban | 1954 GMC 250 trailer puller project | 1954 GMC 250 Hydra-Matic | 1954 Chevy 3100 . 1947 Chevy COE | and more... It's true. I really don't do anything but browse the Internet looking for trouble... | | | | Joined: Dec 2007 Posts: 180 Wrench Fetcher | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Dec 2007 Posts: 180 | has anyone on here put an LS1 in AD truck ?? | | | | Joined: Feb 2007 Posts: 230 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Feb 2007 Posts: 230 | I have used Street and Performance folks myself. They are very helpful. Go with them and you will not be sorry. AND GO WITH THE FI set up. Not many rodders now a days are tackling FI, so if yours is FI , it will be a stand out. mine is '62 383 w/ FI tpi. | | | | Joined: Dec 2007 Posts: 180 Wrench Fetcher | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Dec 2007 Posts: 180 | I have used Street and Performance folks myself. They are very helpful. Go with them and you will not be sorry. AND GO WITH THE FI set up. Not many rodders now a days are tackling FI, so if yours is FI , it will be a stand out. mine is '62 383 w/ FI tpi. that is one of the reasons I want to go with the LS1, not many out there in a old truck. I just think it would be cool to have a modern drivetrain in a old truck | | | | Joined: Dec 2007 Posts: 180 Wrench Fetcher | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Dec 2007 Posts: 180 | there may be a change of plans. I ran across a deal today on a complete drivetrain from a 99 suburban. actually anything I want off of it for $900 I know the owner and he was very picky about maintence he has all the receipts, oil changes every 3K, it was T boned in the drivers door but still runs and shifts fine. granted this is not as cool as a LS1 would be but LS1's sell for around 3K. also I may be able to use the stering column, pedal assy, booster, and maybe even the tank I will have to measure. | | | | Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 427 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 427 | I did a LT1 swap in my 50, was the easiest part of the whole build. I reworked the original harness by removing unwanted wires (air pump, egr, ect.) had larry's electric reprogram the pcm, hooked up 4 wires and fuel and vroom, it lite. | | | | Joined: Dec 2007 Posts: 180 Wrench Fetcher | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Dec 2007 Posts: 180 | I found my drive train it is a 5.3 out of a 2006 tahoe. the truck was totaled when it had on 53 miles on it. so everything is new. Motor1 Motor2 Motor4
Last edited by KCMongo; 08/08/2008 4:16 PM. Reason: Missed this one, changing Images to links. http://www.stovebolt.com/news/2007/december2007/index.html#forum
| | | | Joined: Apr 2006 Posts: 159 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Apr 2006 Posts: 159 | 50adrod, I'm in the process of installing a 2006 6.0 w/4L80E trans in my 61 4x4 Burb.I have the motor in the chassis and the plan in my head just can't get the ambition .I'm going with a company called www.speartech.com to modify the O.E. harness $450 but he wants a $300 to reflash the ECM.I have also encountered an issue with the P/S pulley it interfears with the frame which you may encounter as well.My plan is to notch the frame and build additional support.I don't know how the frame is on your AD but the exhaust also hits the frame on the right side but this can be worked around.Any information you are willing to share would be greatly appreciated.I did buy a book off ebay in regards to modifying the harness yourself.Drop me a PM and we can possibly help each other out.
In the works 2006 GEN III 6.0 /4L80E/ 205 New process,A/C and power brakes .
| | | | Joined: Feb 2001 Posts: 4,109 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2001 Posts: 4,109 | if you want cool use the original engine with a supercharger or three two barrels. my not humble opinion.. seems like everyone wants to use a corvette when the 235 was the original corvette engine. when people ask what i am using i tell them a corvette and let them figure it out. Ron
Last edited by WE b OLD; 02/11/2008 12:59 AM.
Ron, The Computer Greek I love therefore I am.1954 3100 Chevy truckIn the Gallery 2017 Buick Encore See more pix1960 MGA Roadster Sold 7/18/2017
| | | | Joined: Dec 2007 Posts: 180 Wrench Fetcher | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Dec 2007 Posts: 180 | if you want cool use the original engine with a supercharger or three two barrels. my not humble opinion.. seems like everyone wants to use a corvette when the 235 was the original corvette engine. when people ask what i am using i tell them a corvette and let them figure it out. Ron opinions of cool may different, for me this is what I want, with a cam and a little head work I will be in the 400 hp range, don't think I could do that with the 216 I had. | | | | Joined: Feb 2007 Posts: 435 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2007 Posts: 435 | This sounds like it'll be a really trick set up when you get it worked out. I'd love to have the new set up with the older trucks, but I know nothing about the computers(don't want to know)and would rather work on the more basic stuff. I've seen some of the newer stuff at some of the shows, and you gotta hand it to the owners, lots of hard work in what they have. Like I said, I'll stick with my 230, and when it needs something fixed, I can usually do it right here at the house. No degree needed. | | | | Joined: Feb 2007 Posts: 230 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Feb 2007 Posts: 230 | You also need to modify your fuel deliverery. Y9u need an electrid fuel pump to provide about 45psi pressure and a reurn line from the FI to the tank. I havde also use Street and Performance. Give them a call before you do anything and get some tips and advice. Also, I would hesitate to use a stock wiring harness. Too many gremlins that will drive you nuts. | | | | Joined: Aug 2004 Posts: 1,067 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Aug 2004 Posts: 1,067 | I might suggest a tuned port injected 350 out of a late-80's Corvette or F-body. The "TPI" makes extra midrange torque due to its design, and is the best truck engine GM never put in a truck.
Down low, a TPI 350 will pull harder than an LT1 or an LS1. A properly built TPI engine will feel stronger than either until at least 4000 rpm, and that's where a truck needs it.
52 GMC 3/4 ton pickup 68 Big Block Vette 68 455 Firebird | | | | Joined: Dec 2007 Posts: 180 Wrench Fetcher | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Dec 2007 Posts: 180 | I might suggest a tuned port injected 350 out of a late-80's Corvette or F-body. The "TPI" makes extra midrange torque due to its design, and is the best truck engine GM never put in a truck.
Down low, a TPI 350 will pull harder than an LT1 or an LS1. A properly built TPI engine will feel stronger than either until at least 4000 rpm, and that's where a truck needs it. well if you see several post above I have already bought the engine/trans for my project. the 5.3 vortec has 45 more hp than the tuned port and only has 5 ft pounds less torque 340 vs 335. all with less displacement. I have a LT1 in a 93 vette but have never owned a tuned port. they are good motors. I like the new technology since I work with it daily. they are easier to tune. this truck will be a cruiser and not a hauler. | | | | Joined: Dec 2006 Posts: 34 Apprentice | Apprentice Joined: Dec 2006 Posts: 34 | Way to go! I love to see people useing new tech. with a little knowledge and understanding computer controled powertrains are much more simple than trying to get an old carborator to do what you want it to, with a few key strokes you can change almost any parameter you want without having to tear everything apart! If a 235 with a single carb was the best thing ever general motors would still be putting them in cars today. we shouldnt be afraid of the future we should embrace it, the best thing bolters can do is show the industry that we can have the best of both worlds. Please dont get me wrong there is alot to be said about a bone stock original bolt, but if you have upgraded your bolt in any way ie. power windows, alt vs. gen , urethane paint vs. laquer you have already crossed over just my two cents IMO.
P.S. I would love to have that powertrain in my truck
it's not how much time you spend on it, it's how you spend your time with it
| | | | Joined: Dec 2007 Posts: 180 Wrench Fetcher | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Dec 2007 Posts: 180 | thanks, and on this one I am even retaining the drive by wire throttle | | | | Joined: Feb 2007 Posts: 230 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Feb 2007 Posts: 230 | | | | | Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 1,554 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 1,554 | Burnnburp is right on,coudnt have said it better myself. | | | | Joined: Dec 2007 Posts: 180 Wrench Fetcher | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Dec 2007 Posts: 180 |
Last edited by 50adrod; 08/16/2008 12:36 AM.
| | | | Joined: Dec 2005 Posts: 1,026 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2005 Posts: 1,026 | Looking good. 
Robert C. If it's true what they say, "You learn from your mistakes," I'm a Genius in the making. 1950 3600 | | | | Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 1,554 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 1,554 | Lookin good,disc brakes at all four corners,otta stop good.Looks pretty much like mine ,but I used an older 350,and am still using my stock 3:90 rear with a 700R4 trans.Mine rides and handles just great.I am sure yours will do the same only maybe a little better. | | | | Joined: Dec 2007 Posts: 180 Wrench Fetcher | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Dec 2007 Posts: 180 | Lookin good,disc brakes at all four corners,otta stop good.Looks pretty much like mine ,but I used an older 350,and am still using my stock 3:90 rear with a 700R4 trans.Mine rides and handles just great.I am sure yours will do the same only maybe a little better. yes stoping should not be a problem with 4 wheel disc and hydroboost assist | | | | Joined: Feb 2007 Posts: 434 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Feb 2007 Posts: 434 | Mark,
Looks good.
Looks like you using SBC motor mounts and then adding in or building some LS1 adaptor plates?
What gear ratio are you running in your 9-inch and did you buy it built or did you buy the right width and weld on your own spring and shackle mounts?
Also, looks like you went to hydroboost due to fitment problems of a vacuum booster and the 4l60E?
I am planning a similar swap in my '59. I have a local yard looking for a low mileage 6.0L. I'd be happy with a 5.3, but the 6.0 would be a bit faster and the price on them seems to be going down around here with the price of gas going up. I have the MII front end (Fatman's Fab) and power master cylinder in stock location. I am concerned that master cyl, transmission, and driver side exhaust will all want to go in the same place.
I have been thinking about a 3.25 or so gear ratio with the 6.0 motor, rather than something like 3.71.
R-Bo
1959 Apache 1/2 ton Big Window, Short bed Fleetside (under reconstruction) 1966 GMC 305V6 in the family
| | | | Joined: Dec 2007 Posts: 180 Wrench Fetcher | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Dec 2007 Posts: 180 | yes sbc mounts with adapters. the adapters are available from several sources, theese were given to me. my rear ratio is 3.70 it is out of a 70 ford pickup and is right at 60 inches wide so no narrowing was needed. I used a TCI rear leaf and shock kit and welded brackets to the 9 inch. this will lower the rear 4 inches. and yes hyroboost was necessary for clearance, the performance will be a plus also. the 6.0 will get considerably less gas mileage. the 5.3 has 295hp stock and I have a tune from wait4me performance good for another 35hp. 330hp should be enough. exhaust on the drivers side will be tricky to keep the heat off of the brake system but I have a plan. check back later
Last edited by 50adrod; 08/09/2008 5:48 AM.
| | | | Joined: Feb 2007 Posts: 434 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Feb 2007 Posts: 434 | LOL.
I have a turbo on my track car and it is on driver's side of engine compartment near firewall mounted master cylinder. Plenty of heat around the brake system. I wrap everything in that aluminized heat wrap stuff, like this: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=THE%2D11600&N=700+400356+115&autoview=sku
I also cut a simple sheet of aluminized roofing flashing and safety wired it between the turbo and master cylinder. Easy to do.
Works fine. You will notice boiled brake fluid going from 135 MPH to 35MPH every 30 seconds (rinse and repeat) on a road course, and I have not. Stovebolt is not going to slow down that much.
Lower cost alternative is HVAC foil tape (ala Home Depot), but sometimes the sticky melts off the back of it. I stick it to the bottom of my fiberglass hood, otherwise the hood starts to grill and it is probably 8 inches away from turbo and there is a heat shield in between.
R-Bo
1959 Apache 1/2 ton Big Window, Short bed Fleetside (under reconstruction) 1966 GMC 305V6 in the family
| | | | Joined: Feb 2007 Posts: 434 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Feb 2007 Posts: 434 | Oh, other thing I thought of, Task Force is 34" wide frame. AD is what, 25"?? That is going to help out on my truck, I truly hope...Please keep us posted. I am interested in your project.
Last edited by R-Bo; 08/09/2008 3:10 AM.
R-Bo
1959 Apache 1/2 ton Big Window, Short bed Fleetside (under reconstruction) 1966 GMC 305V6 in the family
| | | | Joined: Apr 2006 Posts: 127 Wrench Fetcher | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Apr 2006 Posts: 127 | Thanks for this post, it brings up issues I never even thought about. I too want to use an automatic trans. with a frame mounted M/C. My frame is a 40, and probably narrower than the AD? Guess I can forget about the frame mounted battery. Cool project...keep up the progress reports!
Just because you have a few Craftsman tools, it dosen't mean your a craftsman.
| | | | Joined: Dec 2007 Posts: 180 Wrench Fetcher | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Dec 2007 Posts: 180 | Thanks for this post, it brings up issues I never even thought about. I too want to use an automatic trans. with a frame mounted M/C. My frame is a 40, and probably narrower than the AD? Guess I can forget about the frame mounted battery. Cool project...keep up the progress reports! the battery is on the outside of the frame rail, so it should be ok | | | | Joined: Dec 2005 Posts: 1,026 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2005 Posts: 1,026 | Your truck is looking really good!
Robert C. If it's true what they say, "You learn from your mistakes," I'm a Genius in the making. 1950 3600 | | | | Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 4,983 Master Gabster | Master Gabster Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 4,983 | 50AD Looking good. I'm kinda stalled right now-too much work related junk keeping me busy. I gotta do like Denny and tell myself to take this job and shove it!
~Jim
| | | | Joined: Feb 2007 Posts: 434 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Feb 2007 Posts: 434 | I'm going to stop measuring when I am tired. I had been working most of the day (and had not been feeling well to boot) when I measured the frame (at least 5 times) for building a cab dolly, and then measured 3 or 4 times laying out where to weld the support arms on the dolly. Still it was off about 3 inches. At least it was easy to fix. But I could have sworn I had it right, I had checked it so many times.
R-Bo
1959 Apache 1/2 ton Big Window, Short bed Fleetside (under reconstruction) 1966 GMC 305V6 in the family
| | | | Joined: Dec 2007 Posts: 180 Wrench Fetcher | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Dec 2007 Posts: 180 | ok got a little more done this weekend. I welded in the filler panels for the top and side air vents, welded in the cab corners and de-rusted the passenger fender. installed the bitchin products posi align core support and got everything in 2 good coats of SPI epoxy. also my bed came in from Mar K and I am in the process of priming it and putting it together. the fender temporarily installed. this is the first time I have ever had fender on this truck. http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a198/ahsum/front1.jpgthe custom inner fender just resting in place for an idea of how it will look http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a198/ahsum/innerfender.jpg | | | | Joined: Oct 2007 Posts: 102 Wrench Fetcher | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Oct 2007 Posts: 102 | I am looking to install a LT1/4L60E motor/tranny combo in my 61 and was wondering if there are any special motor mounts needed to do this?
Anyone?
Last edited by northdm; 01/04/2009 10:08 PM.
| | | | Joined: Dec 2007 Posts: 180 Wrench Fetcher | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Dec 2007 Posts: 180 | I think the LT1 mounts just like the earlier small blocks. | | |
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